SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

[FlyingHorker]

Re: Big topcoats with set-in sleeves, anyone know how much leeway you have relative to body measurements? There's a lot of coats on ebay with some huge chests.

I've a polo coat that has a chest that's 4" bigger than my own, and 1.5" bigger shoulders. The overall coat looks quite broad and straight on me. I dig it, but it does feel trim despite how it looks, maybe I've gotten too used to raglan coats.

I have raglans that range from 6-12.5" bigger than my chest. They all work but provide different silhouettes and are in different weights and materials.

 

[double00]

i'd think the shoulder structure would be pretty determinate as to what works

 

[sipang]

You definitely get used to broader everything. I've got coats with shoulders widths that I would've deemed disqualifying in my unenlightened past, not to say that it always works either but once again measurements never tell the whole story and garment proportions, the overall silhouette etc play a part.

And remember, we can always go wider

 

[whorishconsumer]

Speaking of overcoats, I was at Crowley Vintage and he has some really nice, heavy ones in very nice materials.

 

[FlyingHorker]

i'd think the shoulder structure would be pretty determinate as to what works

Tough to figure out just from pictures IMO. With raglans, you automatically know there is no structure, just permanent slouch and roundedness.

You definitely get used to broader everything. I've got coats with shoulders widths that I would've deemed disqualifying in my unenlightened past, not to say that it always works either but once again measurements never tell the whole story and garment proportions, the overall silhouette etc play a part.

And remember, we can always go wider

View attachment 1841089

That dude does look pretty awesome.

I'm reading this as:

Horker: How wide can I go?
Sipang: Yes.

 

[whorishconsumer]

Wide, structured shoulders seem to work until they don't. If they droop and your shoulder starts poking through it maybe loses some of the aesthetic. Although I just gave my partner a sport coat I didn't want and she seems ok with that being the case, so what do I know.

 

[sipang]

Tough to figure out just from pictures IMO. With raglans, you automatically know there is no structure, just permanent slouch and roundedness.

That dude does look pretty awesome.

I'm reading this as:

Horker: How wide can I go?
Sipang: Yes.

Based on my own experience, pretty much yes. What I find interesting in that pic (Jacques Brel c.1970 apparently though it seems a bit older to me) is that the shoulders are obviously gigantic taken in isolation but the silhouette still works somehow (slimmer pants included, never say never...) and I think it's thanks mainly to that droop in the shoulders I think.

I'm not always on board with the poking shoulder thing, especially on sportcoats but I think it can work quite well for outerwear.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Wide, structured shoulders seem to work until they don't. If they droop and your shoulder starts poking through it maybe loses some of the aesthetic. Although I just gave my partner a sport coat I didn't want and she seems ok with that being the case, so what do I know.

Initially forgot I was talking about overcoats, but I've warmed up to Daniel Day Lewis' look in Phantom Thread. He used Anderson & Sheppard (bespoke tailor).

Based on my own experience, pretty much yes. What I find interesting in that pic (Jacques Brel c.1970 apparently though it seems a bit older to me) is that the shoulders are obviously gigantic taken in isolation but the silhouette still works somehow (slimmer pants included, never say never...) and I think it's thanks mainly to that droop in the shoulders I think.

I'm not always on board with the poking shoulder thing, especially on sportcoats but I think it can work quite well for outerwear.

That's what I find intriguing, because most of my pants are on the trimmer/straighter side, but it somehow works with my big coats. Agreed on outerwear being easier to pull off.

Though I'd want to keep in mind how coats look like that closed, which is how I wear all my winter coats.

I posted an 80s Hugo Boss ad, in the other thread, which has me warmed up to huge set-in sleeve coats. Though I'm taking it with some caution, as I remember these models are naturally very athletically built. There isn't that much excess fabric in the chest.

 

[sipang]

Plus those dudes also wear built up db jackets underneath, scarves, ties etc which all help filling up the silhouette literally and visually. I really like DDL's oufits in the movie, I find the lived in droopiness comfy and alluring but I think it's definitely and acquired taste and something you might grow to like after spending too much time around these parts.

Re:silhouettes, large top with slim bottom and inversely are tried and true proportions plays but you need to lean into it or it doesn't really work

 

[d4nimal]

Speaking of overcoats, I was at Crowley Vintage and he has some really nice, heavy ones in very nice materials.

Did you find anything good for yourself?

 

[whorishconsumer]

Initially forgot I was talking about overcoats, but I've warmed up to Daniel Day Lewis' look in Phantom Thread. He used Anderson & Sheppard (bespoke tailor).

I still need to watch that.

 

[whorishconsumer]

Did you find anything good for yourself?

I tried on a bunch of sportcoats and found pretty much the Ur tweed herringbone jacket, which was a 70s Polo with wider lapels. It was a bit steep for me at the moment at $350, so I didn't even ask the price on the outerwear.

Still might swing back and pick up the sport coat, but probably not.

 

[1969]

I still need to watch that.

It's a bdsm movie, basically. And it's great.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I still need to watch that.

I haven't actually watched it, only seen pictures in menswear discussions.

 

[thatboyo]

I tried on a bunch of sportcoats and found pretty much the Ur tweed herringbone jacket, which was a 70s Polo with wider lapels. It was a bit steep for me at the moment at $350, so I didn't even ask the price on the outerwear.

Still might swing back and pick up the sport coat, but probably not.

Outerwear was also around 350 - 500 from memory. I paid 450 pre tax for a vintage burberry a year or two ago.