SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

[whorishconsumer]

Got to say, CM from 2010 is not how I imagined this thread turning out... I went through a vintage tweed phase about then and absolutely nothing of what I bought was something I kept. It's very rare to find anything that fits and actually works with more contemporary aesthetics. I just wouldn't go there TBH.

Please return to floppy 2022 fits.

 

[OccultaVexillum]

.

 

[sipang]

Big pants with shorter and lightly built up jackets, great bottom heavy silhouette and an easy way to make shorter/too short jackets work

 

[oulipien]

Got to say, CM from 2010 is not how I imagined this thread turning out...

I went out in a green Junya suit with a brown knitted sweaterish back panel yesterday but I couldn't a good pic. Would've broken the page up a bit, though.

 

[double00]

Big pants with shorter and lightly built up jackets, great bottom heavy silhouette and an easy way to make shorter/too short jackets work


View attachment 1838765

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i'll buy it . can you show in a vtg tweed lol ?

 

[mmmargeologist]

The suit is alive and well and living in swd

This is like that time all those working class people in the midwest voted republican 🍊.

 

[sipang]

i'll buy it . can you show in a vtg tweed lol ?

talk to @whorishconsumer he's manning the TWEED-E generator

 

[FlyingHorker]

"vintage" and "tweed" is my bat-signal, especially for overcoats/topcoats. I'm obsessed with them.

They can be worn in a SW&D way, or a CM way.

Digging on etsy, I always find coats that look cool to me. I love the different textures and materials used in them. A lot of these textures and materials I never see in new coats. They literally don't make them like they used to.

You can find luxury materials like cashmere and camel hair which drape and flow as well. I'd rather pay $300-400 for these pieces than the $1600+ for a new coat. The prices are "curated vintage". To some, this is too much for an old coat, but to me they're old treasures I enjoy wearing.

The search I used below was "men raglan coat" on Etsy. I've noticed if you find an item you really like, pay attention to the seller. They often carry other great coats you can explore.

Spoiler: Photo and link dump

Men's Ventanni Grey Black Glen Checked New Wool Coat - Etsy Canada

Men's Ravazzolo Dark Green Tartan Wool Coat Vintage - Etsy Canada

1950s ABRAHAUM STRAUS Cashmere Navy Blue Sack Overcoat Jacket - Etsy Canada

Men's Loro Piana Beige Cashmere Coat Vintage Preppy - Etsy Canada

Vintage Wool Overcoat Crombie - Etsy Canada

Vintage 1940s-1950s Mens Italian Tweed Wool Top Coat Over - Etsy Canada

 

[FlyingHorker]

Part 2 of link dump. Hopefully the images line up with the links, ebay doesn't let me hotlink images.

I like single breasted topcoats with patch pockets, they balance out the overall silhouette. A lot of SB topcoats these days only have hand warmer pockets and don't look as interesting IMO.

Spoiler: Ebay seller photo and link dump

Beautiful Vintage Cable Car Clothiers 100% Camelhair Polo Coat Sz 40L USA Made | eBay

Vintage 50s 60s Cashmere Polo Coat Camel Color Sz 40 Long USA Made Patch Pocket | eBay

Incredible 50s 60s Heavy Textured Tweed Balmacaan Raglan Sleeve Overcoat Sz M | eBay

This coat below feels strictly CM, but I like it.
Vintage Kilgour French & Stanbury Navy Double Breasted British Warm Topcoat 44L | eBay

 

[sipang]

Coats are especially well suited to this because fit is much less of an issue, raglans even more so (though sleeve width and armhole depth impact the way the top block looks). And the variety is staggering, patterns, colors, fabrics, cuts, detailng...

I love those coats with quarter lining, blanket self lining everywhere else and piped exposed seams, they usually weighs 200kgs. Best design is raglan peak lapels but they're harder to come by.

 

[double00]

Best design is raglan peak lapels

interesting . dunno if i've ever seen

***

(researching... ) like so ? i cannot remember ever seeing such in all my thrifting days ( and i've thrifted vicuna ) .



i do love raglan sleeves on a db coat , i have a big burb trench for this wet winter and imma use it with my cowboy hat , but what boots ?

 

[whorishconsumer]

talk to @whorishconsumer he's manning the TWEED-E generator

I've been googling bad tweed outfits but no luck

 

[whorishconsumer]

"vintage" and "tweed" is my bat-signal, especially for overcoats/topcoats. I'm obsessed with them.

They can be worn in a SW&D way, or a CM way.

Digging on etsy, I always find coats that look cool to me. I love the different textures and materials used in them. A lot of these textures and materials I never see in new coats. They literally don't make them like they used to.

You can find luxury materials like cashmere and camel hair which drape and flow as well. I'd rather pay $300-400 for these pieces than the $1600+ for a new coat. The prices are "curated vintage". To some, this is too much for an old coat, but to me they're old treasures I enjoy wearing.

The search I used below was "men raglan coat" on Etsy. I've noticed if you find an item you really like, pay attention to the seller. They often carry other great coats you can explore.

Spoiler: Photo and link dump

Men's Ventanni Grey Black Glen Checked New Wool Coat - Etsy Canada

Men's Ravazzolo Dark Green Tartan Wool Coat Vintage - Etsy Canada

1950s ABRAHAUM STRAUS Cashmere Navy Blue Sack Overcoat Jacket - Etsy Canada

Men's Loro Piana Beige Cashmere Coat Vintage Preppy - Etsy Canada

Vintage Wool Overcoat Crombie - Etsy Canada

Vintage 1940s-1950s Mens Italian Tweed Wool Top Coat Over - Etsy Canada

They have a handsome vintage Burberry Balmacaan in donegal at Stella's 10 Ft Single in Williamsburg right now (not sure who's in NYC). Roughly a 52R. I like the texture more than the glen plaid one I have at home.

 

[sipang]

interesting . dunno if i've ever seen

***

(researching... ) like so ? i cannot remember ever seeing such in all my thrifting days ( and i've thrifted vicuna ) .

View attachment 1838851

i do love raglan sleeves on a db coat , i have a big burb trench for this wet winter and imma use it with my cowboy hat , but what boots ?

Cowboy hat cowboy boots.

Yeah like that one, it think the style pretty much died in the 50s so it's obviously slim pickings outside of bespoke etc

 

[FlyingHorker]

Coats are especially well suited to this because fit is much less of an issue, raglans even more so (though sleeve width and armhole depth impact the way the top block looks). And the variety is staggering, patterns, colors, fabrics, cuts, detailng...

I love those coats with quarter lining, blanket self lining everywhere else and piped exposed seams, they usually weighs 200kgs. Best design is raglan peak lapels but they're harder to come by.

Agreed. I've an old raglan I bought that's gigantic, it makes my head look too small with the massive shoulders. I love it though, I look broad and wide in it.

Extremely comfortable too. Once I started wearing big coats, I'm not sure how I ever felt good wearing slim fit topcoats.

I've never seen a raglan peak lapel before. The most unique design(s) I've seen from new coats are often from B&Tailor (bespoke).

I'd wear the one below. I can feel the coziness already.



I'd also add to be open to altering coats too. I had the body of a polo coat reduced by one size and it looks a lot better on me now, the skirt/quarters hang straight.