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SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

whorishconsumer

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Got to say, CM from 2010 is not how I imagined this thread turning out... I went through a vintage tweed phase about then and absolutely nothing of what I bought was something I kept. It's very rare to find anything that fits and actually works with more contemporary aesthetics. I just wouldn't go there TBH.
Please return to floppy 2022 fits.
 

FlyingHorker

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"vintage" and "tweed" is my bat-signal, especially for overcoats/topcoats. I'm obsessed with them.

They can be worn in a SW&D way, or a CM way.

Digging on etsy, I always find coats that look cool to me. I love the different textures and materials used in them. A lot of these textures and materials I never see in new coats. They literally don't make them like they used to.

You can find luxury materials like cashmere and camel hair which drape and flow as well. I'd rather pay $300-400 for these pieces than the $1600+ for a new coat. The prices are "curated vintage". To some, this is too much for an old coat, but to me they're old treasures I enjoy wearing.

The search I used below was "men raglan coat" on Etsy. I've noticed if you find an item you really like, pay attention to the seller. They often carry other great coats you can explore.

 

FlyingHorker

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Part 2 of link dump. Hopefully the images line up with the links, ebay doesn't let me hotlink images.

I like single breasted topcoats with patch pockets, they balance out the overall silhouette. A lot of SB topcoats these days only have hand warmer pockets and don't look as interesting IMO.

 

sipang

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Coats are especially well suited to this because fit is much less of an issue, raglans even more so (though sleeve width and armhole depth impact the way the top block looks). And the variety is staggering, patterns, colors, fabrics, cuts, detailng...

I love those coats with quarter lining, blanket self lining everywhere else and piped exposed seams, they usually weighs 200kgs. Best design is raglan peak lapels but they're harder to come by.
 

double00

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Best design is raglan peak lapels
interesting . dunno if i've ever seen

***

(researching... ) like so ? i cannot remember ever seeing such in all my thrifting days ( and i've thrifted vicuna ) .

Screen Shot 2022-10-01 at 7.10.17 PM.png

i do love raglan sleeves on a db coat , i have a big burb trench for this wet winter and imma use it with my cowboy hat , but what boots ?
 

whorishconsumer

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whorishconsumer

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"vintage" and "tweed" is my bat-signal, especially for overcoats/topcoats. I'm obsessed with them.

They can be worn in a SW&D way, or a CM way.

Digging on etsy, I always find coats that look cool to me. I love the different textures and materials used in them. A lot of these textures and materials I never see in new coats. They literally don't make them like they used to.

You can find luxury materials like cashmere and camel hair which drape and flow as well. I'd rather pay $300-400 for these pieces than the $1600+ for a new coat. The prices are "curated vintage". To some, this is too much for an old coat, but to me they're old treasures I enjoy wearing.

The search I used below was "men raglan coat" on Etsy. I've noticed if you find an item you really like, pay attention to the seller. They often carry other great coats you can explore.

They have a handsome vintage Burberry Balmacaan in donegal at Stella's 10 Ft Single in Williamsburg right now (not sure who's in NYC). Roughly a 52R. I like the texture more than the glen plaid one I have at home.
 

sipang

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interesting . dunno if i've ever seen

***

(researching... ) like so ? i cannot remember ever seeing such in all my thrifting days ( and i've thrifted vicuna ) .

View attachment 1838851

i do love raglan sleeves on a db coat , i have a big burb trench for this wet winter and imma use it with my cowboy hat , but what boots ?
Cowboy hat cowboy boots.

Yeah like that one, it think the style pretty much died in the 50s so it's obviously slim pickings outside of bespoke etc
 

FlyingHorker

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Coats are especially well suited to this because fit is much less of an issue, raglans even more so (though sleeve width and armhole depth impact the way the top block looks). And the variety is staggering, patterns, colors, fabrics, cuts, detailng...

I love those coats with quarter lining, blanket self lining everywhere else and piped exposed seams, they usually weighs 200kgs. Best design is raglan peak lapels but they're harder to come by.
Agreed. I've an old raglan I bought that's gigantic, it makes my head look too small with the massive shoulders. I love it though, I look broad and wide in it.

Extremely comfortable too. Once I started wearing big coats, I'm not sure how I ever felt good wearing slim fit topcoats.

I've never seen a raglan peak lapel before. The most unique design(s) I've seen from new coats are often from B&Tailor (bespoke).

I'd wear the one below. I can feel the coziness already.


I'd also add to be open to altering coats too. I had the body of a polo coat reduced by one size and it looks a lot better on me now, the skirt/quarters hang straight.
 

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