1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

suspenders with a tux?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by marg, Mar 24, 2011.

  1. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

    Messages:
    2,247
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2009
    Highly-polished Park Avenues are the least of your sartorial transgressions. Two-button notched-lapel? Sorry, but you have not purchased a DJ. You have purchased a black suit. It doesn't make that much difference what accessories you wear with it. If it were an actual single-breasted DJ, then a cummerbund or a vest would be mandatory. And yes, you would need suspenders. As for you theory about peak lapels having high armholes and narrow sleeves, I think this pretty much covers it, wut? I am also concerned about your comment that you would have to spend $100 on alterations. Perhaps you meant $100 extra on alterations. But the absolute key to any RTW tuxedo is having it properly altered by an independent tailor, i.e., not the guy in the shop. You should expect to spend $100-$150 in alterations to make your new DJ your own. If you do, even an inexpensive one will look great. If you don't, it will almost certainly look like crap regardless of how much you paid for it.
     
  2. marg

    marg Senior member

    Messages:
    417
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2011
    Highly-polished Park Avenues are the least of your sartorial transgressions.

    Two-button notched-lapel? Sorry, but you have not purchased a DJ. You have purchased a black suit. It doesn't make that much difference what accessories you wear with it.

    If it were an actual single-breasted DJ, then a cummerbund or a vest would be mandatory. And yes, you would need suspenders.

    As for you theory about peak lapels having high armholes and narrow sleeves, I think this pretty much covers it,

    wut?

    I am also concerned about your comment that you would have to spend $100 on alterations. Perhaps you meant $100 extra on alterations. But the absolute key to any RTW tuxedo is having it properly altered by an independent tailor, i.e., not the guy in the shop. You should expect to spend $100-$150 in alterations to make your new DJ your own. If you do, even an inexpensive one will look great. If you don't, it will almost certainly look like crap regardless of how much you paid for it.


    http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/ca...0734cat9050733
    --> Armani Tux, notch lapel. Odds are, most wouldn't consider this a black suit.


    http://www.josbank.com/menswear/shop...1_10050_101492
    --> My mistake, it is a 1 button. The Canali and Abboud I tried on were 2 button. Again, most wouldn't consider this a black suit. Just to clarify, I ordered it with flat-front pants, not the pleats.
     
  3. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

    Messages:
    1,138
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2008
    I don't consider a notch lapel suitable for a tux. It is a casual Fuck You to the dress code. As for braces, you MUST wear it with a tux. And for shoes, they must be formal slippers/pumps, preferable to be black, midnight or navy, patterned too; patent leather, velvet or suede.
     
  4. f-tard

    f-tard Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    91
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2011
    I could have purchased the Allen Edmonds formal shoe, the Kendall, at a pretty strong discount, but I just don't like patent leather. I don't like the look or feel of a patent shoe, and I also want my feet to breathe. I normally don't wear black shoes, but the PAs are classic, and I'm sure they will be put to good use when I finish law school.

    I'm in the same boat as you. Just picked up a mtm tux and am on the hunt for some decent shoes to pair them with. I was thinking about PAs and putting a good shine to them, but now I'm leaning towards spending some extra for a pair of black calf wholecuts. This way I don't have to hear about the appropriateness of captoe for formal wear. You'll still catch some flack for it not being a pump or patent, but it's seamless and imo a much more modern look.
     
  5. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

    Messages:
    18,044
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    Central Booking
    I don't consider a notch lapel suitable for a tux. It is a casual Fuck You to the dress code. As for braces, you MUST wear it with a tux. And for shoes, they must be formal slippers/pumps, preferable to be black, midnight or navy, patterned too; patent leather, velvet or suede.

    +1
     
  6. marg

    marg Senior member

    Messages:
    417
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2011
    I'm in the same boat as you. Just picked up a mtm tux and am on the hunt for some decent shoes to pair them with. I was thinking about PAs and putting a good shine to them, but now I'm leaning towards spending some extra for a pair of black calf wholecuts. This way I don't have to hear about the appropriateness of captoe for formal wear. You'll still catch some flack for it not being a pump or patent, but it's seamless and imo a much more modern look.


    Alden makes a plain toe plaza bal, but I didn't want to spend that much. The extra hundred was better allocated to investments, mortgage, etc. The PAs give me the most mileage for my dollar.

    http://www.aldenshop.com/Store/DrawP...ageID=&Action=

    I knew I would get hammered by some on the forum, but that's fine. Comes with the territory. I just needed to know if braces were a must. Seems so.
     
  7. marg

    marg Senior member

    Messages:
    417
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2011
    +1

    You can +1 all you like, I think formal pumps look ridiculous. Velvet slippers, not so bad, but I prefer laceups.
     
  8. f-tard

    f-tard Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    91
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2011
    I knew I would get hammered by some on the forum, but that's fine. Comes with the territory. I just needed to know if braces were a must. Seems so.

    Hah, if it makes you feel any better, I'm not wearing braces or a waist covering. I just didn't start a thread about it because I didn't want to feel guilty about doing so. Just keep the jacket buttoned.

    Yeah, the mileage of a PA goes much further. Here's a black wholecut that's roughly the same price as that Alden. I'm not sure if that's a Cheaney or an Alfred Sargent though.
     
  9. f-tard

    f-tard Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    91
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2011
    You can +1 all you like, I think formal pumps look ridiculous. Velvet slippers, not so bad, but I prefer laceups.

    And outside of this forum and other select small circles, formal pumps look like you stole something outta your girlfriends closet.
     
  10. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

    Messages:
    5,090
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2009
    Conservative 2-button, high notch jacket.

    no cummerbund. not a fan. i just wanted to keep it simple.

    [​IMG] x 2
     
  11. Unregistered

    Unregistered Senior member

    Messages:
    980
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2011
    Location:
    Edmonton, AB
  12. Mac

    Mac Senior member

    Messages:
    412
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2010
    Location:
    Glasgow, Scotland
    I don't believe formal pumps are necessary for black tie—save them for white tie—but patent leather oxfords are a must. Otherwise, with the current ensemble you will look like you've just come from work and have swapped your normal neck tie for a bow tie.

    Here are the headlines:

    -You need a 1 button peak lapel dinner suit,
    -You need waist covering unless you have a low cut dinner jacket that buttons on your trouser waist line (unlikely),
    -You need patent leather oxfords,
    -You need to wear braces (suspenders).

    Do all that, and you will look great. If you don't, you'll look like every other half-wit who doesn't have a clue about black tie.
     
  13. marg

    marg Senior member

    Messages:
    417
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2011
    so if i already have a bowtie, does the cummerbund have to match specifically? my bowtie is a black satin with herringbone weave. would a regular black satin work?
     
  14. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

    Messages:
    18,044
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    Central Booking
    You can +1 all you like, I think formal pumps look ridiculous. Velvet slippers, not so bad, but I prefer laceups.

    I prefer laceups also...But PROPER laceups for black tie. Not "work" shoes.
     
  15. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

    Messages:
    2,247
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2009
    http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/ca...0734cat9050733 --> Armani Tux, notch lapel. Odds are, most wouldn't consider this a black suit. http://www.josbank.com/menswear/shop...1_10050_101492 --> My mistake, it is a 1 button. The Canali and Abboud I tried on were 2 button. Again, most wouldn't consider this a black suit. Just to clarify, I ordered it with flat-front pants, not the pleats.
    The notch lapel is strongly disfavored for formal wear but is not completely outside the pale. A tuxedo with a two-button jacket is a black suit. Full stop. I am very glad you did not get one. You do need a waist covering though. If you don't want a cummerbund, get a vest, which I think looks better anyway. Formal wear is about tradition and form. It is not about self-expression or discovering your inner-child. If you really want to be a rebel, wear carnelian shirt studs. Having said that, the black tie rules arose, for the most part, because they really do make you look sharp. The suspenders make your pants look much better and the waist covering makes the suspenders almost invisible as it hides the suspender ends. For further information on proper form, I recommend, http://www.blacktieguide.com
    Just to add, this is wrong. You must always have a waist covering with a single-breasted DJ because your jacket will often be unbuttoned. You do not need a waist covering with a double-breasted DJ because your jacket will never be unbuttoned.
     
  16. Mac

    Mac Senior member

    Messages:
    412
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2010
    Location:
    Glasgow, Scotland
    A regular black satin should be fine. Go into the same shop you got your bow tie from with your bowtie and find a cummerbund that is as close as possible.
     
  17. marg

    marg Senior member

    Messages:
    417
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2011
    The notch lapel is strongly disfavored for formal wear but is not completely outside the pale.

    A tuxedo with a two-button jacket is a black suit. Full stop. I am very glad you did not get one.

    You do need a waist covering though. If you don't want a cummerbund, get a vest, which I think looks better anyway.

    Formal wear is about tradition and form. It is not about self-expression or discovering your inner-child. If you really want to be a rebel, wear carnelian shirt studs.

    Having said that, the black tie rules arose, for the most part, because they really do make you look sharp. The suspenders make your pants look much better and the waist covering makes the suspenders almost invisible as it hides the suspender ends.

    For further information on proper form, I recommend,

    http://www.blacktieguide.com



    Just to add, this is wrong. You must always have a waist covering with a single-breasted DJ because your jacket will often be unbuttoned. You do not need a waist covering with a double-breasted DJ because your jacket will never be unbuttoned.



    thank you for this...wish I had known before I made the purchase. I was under the impression that a notch collar is classic, and therefore, will not go out of style. I guess I would have been correct if talking about the peak. Oh well, at least I will still look good, just slightly improper. Many of the people that will be at the wedding are still wearing square toes, so I'm splitting hairs here at this point in my life. At least i will know for next time when I purchase something more upper-echelon.
     
  18. Mac

    Mac Senior member

    Messages:
    412
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2010
    Location:
    Glasgow, Scotland
    Just to add, this is wrong. You must always have a waist covering with a single-breasted DJ because your jacket will often be unbuttoned. You do not need a waist covering with a double-breasted DJ because your jacket will never be unbuttoned.

    Well if you kept it buttoned while standing up no one would notice. One of the uses of the cummerbund is to cover the "Bermuda Triangle". However, with a buttoning point at your waist this would not arise with no cummerbund. Think James Bond in Casino Royale.

    Obviously, most DJs don't come this way so some form of waist covering is needed.
     
  19. Doc4

    Doc4 Senior member

    Messages:
    798
    Joined:
    May 15, 2008
    Location:
    British Columbia, Canada
    Yes, suspenders. http://www.albertthurston.com/categoryfast2.cfm?catid=1

    Some tux pants will have side-tab adjusters, so you can get a snug fit without belts or braces.

    The Boss tux they had also fit, but I wouldn't pay retail for Boss.

    You have made some friends here with that statement ... but if you had said you'd never be caught dead in Boss you';d be in like Flynn.
    I thought a highly polished calfskin cap toe was acceptable, no?
    IMHO, they're fine for a tux.
    I could have purchased the Allen Edmonds formal shoe, the Kendall, at a pretty strong discount, but I just don't like patent leather. I don't like the look or feel of a patent shoe, and I also want my feet to breathe. I normally don't wear black shoes, but the PAs are classic, and I'm sure they will be put to good use when I finish law school.

    I don't like patent leather either. Good choice, IMHO.

    Don't get too flustered by the comments about the notch lapel. It may be "less than perfect" but it't not a hanging offence.

    Oh, and ...

    http://www.blacktieguide.com/
     
  20. marg

    marg Senior member

    Messages:
    417
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2011
    Bought the suspenders and cummerbund. After seeing everything on together, I am not crazy about the cummerbund, but the suspenders need to be covered. Thanks all for the input.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by