Summer Suits and Overcoats

[Angleton]

About 18 months ago, I posted a question on this forum about Hong Kong tailors. After receiving an excellent response, I posted in return a detailed account of my experience at Lee Baron, where I had three suits, two overcoats and several shirts made.

I hope that account has bought me enough good will to ask some more questions now, even though I haven't contributed to the forum for 18 months.

On Saturday, I will return to Hong Kong. I was happy with the service and suits at Lee Baron, and so I will return, looking to buy at least two summer suits (khaki and cream; a third might be stone or a lighter navy), at least one summer overcoat (a trench, a second would be a charcoal or black mac), at least one blazer/sports coat (navy would be the first, grey the second), and at last two pairs of trousers for the summer to match with my blazer(s).

But, I have never bought a summer suit, never bought a blazer and never a trenchcoat, and so, thinking about where I could get advice, I thought I'd come here. (I also thought this might be a useful catch-all primer for summer office wear).

First, I would like one cream suit and one khaki (although I quite like the slightly more stone finish of some khaki suits). But what material should I look for? If I get three-quarter or ring lined, would that affect the way it looks externally (both jackets will need to be formal enough for an office environment)? Also, are there any tips on specific colours?

Second, what shirt colours go with those colours? I love the way blue looks with cream and khaki (both the office standard light blue and ice blue), but any other suggestions? I'm looking to be able to wear the suits casually in evenings, too.

Third, what are the suggestions for the blazer? What is it, specifically, that makes a blazer different from the jacket of a suit? Are there any features I should look for? I also particularly like an almost ink black-blue navy for blazers, but love the look for the summer of a navy suit, denim shirt and white jeans. Would such a dark shade of navy look ok with lighter jeans/chinos?

Fourth, same question for the trench: what should I ask for in terms of material and styling?

Finally, do any of you chaps know of good photo gallieries for any of the areas I've mentioned above. It would be useful in terms of picturing the options and getting some inspiration.

Again, thanks for the help in advance. I'd be more than happy to produce an account of my process, as I did last time, or provide any information in return.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Answering questions in random order...

The lack or lining makes no difference to the outward appearance of the coat, unless you get unlined sleeves on a fabric in a very open weave, such as fresco, in which case your shirt will show through in flash photography.

I would just get a RTW trench. You can probably ebay a vintage one of good quality. Trenches generally aren't made bespoke AFAIK.

Think carefully before getting a cream suit. Especially if you're at all worried about what's appropriate in your office setting.

Instead of thinking in terms of summer colors, think in terms of summer weights and weaves. You can wear navy and gray in summer too. Especially in the lighter shades.

Summer fabrics for clothing includes linen and linen blends, tropical weight wool, and open, high twist fabrics such as fresco. Be aware that linen wrinkles very easily, so if this bothers you, don't get 100% linen anything.

White and light blue are the most common shirt colors in any season. There's also pink, which is more common in summer. For more casual, non-tie occasions, you might consider madras.

Grey isn't a very useful color for a sport coat. Consider something patterned in brown, or solid tan. Or solid cream. Much better as a jacket than a suit.

For trousers, light brown to tan again, as well as light gray, and, if you got a lighter sportcoat, mid to darkish brown.

Jeans should be blue and blue only.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Oh also...mohair blends are also an option for summer. They have a bit of shine which makes then nice for your evening occasions but a bit less so for the office. I'd get these only in dark colors, like navy.

 

[Angleton]

Excellent stuff. Thanks.

I don't like linen suits. I think that they too quickly look either sloppy or something that looks good on a grizzled, worldly foreign correspondant for a great newspaper, but nobody else. Maybe for a sports jacket, but not a suit, in my view. Living in Moscow, I've seen too many bad ones to like them.

What about cotton for suits?

 

[unbelragazzo]

Personally I don't like cotton for suits but some say they have their charm:

http://dieworkwear.com/post/45350167430/the-under-appreciated-cotton-suit

 

[gringodaddy]

Answering questions in random order...

The lack or lining makes no difference to the outward appearance of the coat, unless you get unlined sleeves on a fabric in a very open weave, such as fresco, in which case your shirt will show through in flash photography.

I would just get a RTW trench. You can probably ebay a vintage one of good quality. Trenches generally aren't made bespoke AFAIK.

Think carefully before getting a cream suit. Especially if you're at all worried about what's appropriate in your office setting.

Instead of thinking in terms of summer colors, think in terms of summer weights and weaves. You can wear navy and gray in summer too. Especially in the lighter shades.

Summer fabrics for clothing includes linen and linen blends, tropical weight wool, and open, high twist fabrics such as fresco. Be aware that linen wrinkles very easily, so if this bothers you, don't get 100% linen anything.

White and light blue are the most common shirt colors in any season. There's also pink, which is more common in summer. For more casual, non-tie occasions, you might consider madras.

Grey isn't a very useful color for a sport coat. Consider something patterned in brown, or solid tan. Or solid cream. Much better as a jacket than a suit.

For trousers, light brown to tan again, as well as light gray, and, if you got a lighter sportcoat, mid to darkish brown.

Jeans should be blue and blue only.

What is your opinion on all linen dress shirts?

 

[unbelragazzo]



What is your opinion on all linen dress shirts?  

Wonderful. Wearing one right now.

 

[gringodaddy]

I saw some great looking ones at Kamakura's new store on Madison Ave for $99 apiece. I don't know if the additional cooling benefits will outweigh the wrinkles or not but I guess I can buy one and find out!

 

[unbelragazzo]

The downsides are the wrinkling as well as the potential need for dry cleaning. Some say this isn't necessary though.

 

[Garasaki]

I'd just like to say thank you to unbelragazzo for posting very useful information.

Very down to earth and practical. I'm loving it.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Well, since you're all loving it so much...for all the info you could ever want on Trenches, this is the book to get:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/2759401634/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

 

[gringodaddy]

dry cleaning because of the difficulty of ironing linen to a crispness required for a dress shirt or some other reason? thanks for your responses so far.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Basically that, and fading:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/188582/linen-shirts-launder-as-normal-or-dry-clean

 

[gringodaddy]

Basically that, and fading:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/188582/linen-shirts-launder-as-normal-or-dry-clean

cheers, thank you! being a glutton for punishment i see a few in my future regardless. any relief from nyc heat and humidity is worth a shot.