summer suit seersucker or cotton

[Sartorian]

I'm planning on getting a nice summer suit, and wondering if I should just go to H & M or something and get it tailored, or go MTM. FYI, I'm a 34-35, and there just aren't any OTR suits that really fit me. I'm wondering, however, if those RTW retail stores might just have the standard S M L (maybe XS, etc.)

Is there a difference in construction between cotton, seersucker and wool suits? (Are cotton suits usually fused or bonded?)

Between khaki, off-white cotton and seersucker, which is considered most formal, which most casual? Or are they all casual? What about linen--bad idea?

 

[mensimageconsultant]

In many places, linen probably is a better idea than cotton or seersucker (which usually is cotton). Harlem? There seersucker could seem like costume.

High-end cotton and seersucker suits are unusual. Most suits in those materials aren't constructed with great precision, because the fabric probably will wear out or the item will go out of style relatively quickly.

Since you seem sold on something other than wool but probably want to get your money's worth... if you go MTM, linen is the best option.

 

[a tailor]

the trouble with cotton is that it is tightly woven and will not breathe.
linen and seersucker will breathe a little better.
wool tropical breathes the best.
why? cloth that breathes allows the body heat to escape.
close weaves seal in the body heat.

 

[Sartorian]

Okay. I'll switch my thinking, veer back towards summer wool or linen. I actually love linen, just didn't think it was necessarily acceptable, other than for going out or 'prancing,' but not work.

If that's the case, what kind of fabric am I looking for to get my money's worth, and what's a good, light color I should go for--what's most conservative/versatile/acceptable for the summer, perhaps to be worn in a semi-professional environment?

Same questions for linen? What colors, what quality, what terms do I use for such things?

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Tropical wool in navy or medium or dark gray should be acceptable for just about any professional situation. (But then it's a lighter color that marks it as a summer fabric.) Is Manton going to say something about hopsack or fresco?

Off-the-rack suits are unlikely to be described as such, regardless.

Even in conservative colors, linen is riskier. You'll need to elaborate on "semi-professional" to get a better answer. Nevertheless, if you wear a suit that is mostly wool with maybe 30% linen, you should be as safe as if you were wearing pure wool.

 

[Sartorian]

Originally Posted by mensimageconsultant

Tropical wool in navy or medium or dark gray should be acceptable for just about any professional situation. (But then it's a lighter color that marks it as a summer fabric.) Is Manton going to say something about hopsack or fresco?

Off-the-rack suits are unlikely to be described as such, regardless.

I don't know what hosack or fresco are.

Originally Posted by mensimageconsultant

Even in conservative colors, linen is riskier. You'll need to elaborate on "semi-professional" to get a better answer. Nevertheless, if you wear a suit that is mostly wool with maybe 30% linen, you should be as safe as if you were wearing pure wool.

Thanks for the tip. I'm a law student, but only public interest. I like wearing a suit, but I'm not necessarily constricted by corporate rigidity, hence my use of the term 'semi-professional'. I just want a durable, good-wearing summer suit, and I'm thinking of getting it MTM; as I'm having my first, real charcoal/professional/conservative/3-season suit made, figured I'd do the same for the final season. I'm trying to create a limited but versatile minimalist wardrobe, revolving around a few durable, well-made suits, and 'suitable' for most occasions. I say minimalist and limited because I live in a 200-sq. ft. apartment with limited closet space, and I'm making a one-time investment. Seemed like a light-colored summer suit would be good to have for the summer job.

Would a wool-linen blend be sufficiently cool in hot, sticky summer months? Also, what exactly is a summer wool? Is it just light-colored, or is it also one of the thinner 'supers 100+' weaves?

 

[NoVaguy]

Originally Posted by Sartorian

I don't know what hosack or fresco are.

hopsack and fresco are weaves.

 

[heavyd]

Originally Posted by Sartorian

I don't know what hosack or fresco are.



Thanks for the tip. I'm a law student, but only public interest. I like wearing a suit, but I'm not necessarily constricted by corporate rigidity, hence my use of the term 'semi-professional'. I just want a durable, good-wearing summer suit, and I'm thinking of getting it MTM; as I'm having my first, real charcoal/professional/conservative/3-season suit made, figured I'd do the same for the final season. I'm trying to create a limited but versatile minimalist wardrobe, revolving around a few durable, well-made suits, and 'suitable' for most occasions. I say minimalist and limited because I live in a 200-sq. ft. apartment with limited closet space, and I'm making a one-time investment. Seemed like a light-colored summer suit would be good to have for the summer job.

Would a wool-linen blend be sufficiently cool in hot, sticky summer months? Also, what exactly is a summer wool? Is it just light-colored, or is it also one of the thinner 'supers 100+' weaves?

I would go to Brooks Brothers and get a solid cotton summer suit for like $300 based on your description of your needs.

You must know however, that these wrinkle excessively and my be pressed after wear to maintain the 'fresh' look of the suit.

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...&Parent_Id=216

 

[Sartorian]

Originally Posted by heavyd

I would go to Brooks Brothers and get a solid cotton summer suit for like $300 based on your description of your needs. You must know however, that these wrinkle excessively and my be pressed after wear to maintain the 'fresh' look of the suit. http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...&Parent_Id=216
Thanks for the note and the link. I don't mind wrinkles, I enjoy pressing and steaming clothes. I do appreciate this link, however, as it's what I was thinking about. My problem is my size--I'm a 35 chest, with small neck and shoulders, and nothing OTR fits me. I'll see if I think the BB suit you mentioned could be tailored to fit; otherwise, may just go order something MTM. BTW, while on this topic: I looked at some linen and linen-cotton blend suits in Zara a few days ago, and my girlfriend pointed something odd to me out: the lining's were all 100% rayon. Doesn't this entirely defeat the purpose of making a cotton or linen suit?! That synthetic stuff really doesn't do well for breathability.

 

[heavyd]

Originally Posted by Sartorian

Thanks for the note and the link. I don't mind wrinkles, I enjoy pressing and steaming clothes. I do appreciate this link, however, as it's what I was thinking about. My problem is my size--I'm a 35 chest, with small neck and shoulders, and nothing OTR fits me. I'll see if I think the BB suit you mentioned could be tailored to fit; otherwise, may just go order something MTM.

BTW, while on this topic:

I looked at some linen and linen-cotton blend suits in Zara a few days ago, and my girlfriend pointed something odd to me out: the lining's were all 100% rayon. Doesn't this entirely defeat the purpose of making a cotton or linen suit?! That synthetic stuff really doesn't do well for breathability.

Firstly, do NOT buy a linen suit unles you can affort the absolute best. Don't even consider it. http://www.polo.com/product/index.js...760781.1815443

Secondly, anything can be tailerd to fit if you see the proper tailor. If the inhouse tailor at BB isnt meeting your needs, take the suits elsewhere. Its a small cost to bear for the enjoyment and life of the suit.

 

[Holdfast]

Cotton and seersucker suits are generally cheaper than regular suits, so you may find you can pick both up for a reasonable price, esp. at sales. Remember, the generally lighter colours will mean more time at the dry cleaners, so it's worth having a reasonable rotation.

heavyd - that's a gorgeous RLPL suit. If it ever turns up in my local outlet, I'm SOOO buying it. I already have a white RLPL tropical wool suit, but that one you linked too is even better.

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Tailored items in light colors don't necessarily need to be dry-cleaned more often, although with regular wear in NYC air....

Recutting a suit is not cheap and runs a serious risk of unattractive final results. Given the size 35, MTM deserves serious consideration.

Tropical wool is not the same thing as a higher Super and isn't not necessarily a light color. There is a brief mention in here. Does any webpage provide a lengthy, easy-to-understand explanation?

Yes, the lining can interfere with breathability. Ultimately, the most breathable suits are made by bespoke tailors.