Summer Linen Suit - Pocket Options

[the_sartorialist]

I had recently pulled the trigger on a 2-piece linen suit (Mersolair), and I was hoping to canvass some opinions from the collective wisdom of the forum on what type of hip pockets I should opt for.

Current thinking is for the suit to be used for business and casual wear (as separates), hence I am torn as to what kind of pockets would be most versatile. I am thinking hacking pockets would give it a more formal edge, as opposed to patch pockets, but I would be keen to hear people's thoughts. And I am not keen on the standard straight flapped pockets as an option because I find them too ordinary.

For what it's worth, the jacket will be a fully unlined, single-breasted in a 3-roll-2 configuration and with a notch lapel.

 

[Manton]

Hacking on linen = blech.

Do patch. It's fine for business. The suit is going to look schlumpy and wrinkled anyway. May as well stay in keeping with its casual air.

 

[Douglas]

At the risk of over-succumbing to SF groupthink, I really think 3 patch is the way to go for a linen suit. I strongly dislike hacking pockets, especially since their original purpose (horseback riding) is obsolete, and today totally contextually conflated (e.g. your comment re: formality).

I realize this may not be great for business purposes, but a linen suit is a little casual for business purposes anyways. In a business environment where people would care, a linen suit would be out of the question to begin with. But in a business environment where people don't care, what's the difference between welted pockets and patch?

 

[wmb]

I personally dislike hacking on anything -- even if mounted on a horse.

 

[knittieguy]

This may anger the purists, but I would go with side patch pockets but leave the handkerchief pocket standard welt. Having a handkerchief patch pocket can look great, but it looks extremely casual and draws a lot of attention to itself. If done poorly it can also look costumey, as though you've stumbled into the 1920s.

 

[the_sartorialist]

Thanks for the swift replies. I should have clarified that this will be a suit to be used in the Singaporean business environment.

For those who are familiar with such, suits are not even commonplace in Singapore given the climate, so it's safe to say I would be 'in a business environment where people don't care' (as per Douglas' comment above). And suffice to say, I am going with the welted breast pocket, so it's not going to be a 3-patch pocket design.

On that basis, I am guessing the consensus is patch pockets for the hip. Any further suggestions on these pockets? Normal? Curved? Welted? Would the Cifonelli designs be too aggressive?

 

[Axelman 17]

I would go three patch on a linen suit

 

[aj_del]

Originally Posted by the_sartorialist

On that basis, I am guessing the consensus is patch pockets for the hip. Any further suggestions on these pockets? Normal? Curved? Welted? Would the Cifonelli designs be too aggressive?

What are welted patch pockets ?

Regarding your q, either 2 patch or 3 patch but make sure you get the right shape for the breast patch

 

[Joffrey]

Originally Posted by the_sartorialist

I had recently pulled the trigger on a 2-piece linen suit (Mersolair), and I was hoping to canvass some opinions from the collective wisdom of the forum on what type of hip pockets I should opt for.

Current thinking is for the suit to be used for business and casual wear (as separates), hence I am torn as to what kind of pockets would be most versatile. I am thinking hacking pockets would give it a more formal edge, as opposed to patch pockets, but I would be keen to hear people's thoughts. And I am not keen on the standard straight flapped pockets as an option because I find them too ordinary.

For what it's worth, the jacket will be a fully unlined, single-breasted in a 3-roll-2 configuration and with a notch lapel.

Nobody will notice. Go with what you want.

 

[the_sartorialist]

Except for the colour, I imagine it would look something like this (picture courtesy of Peter Chong who had the jacket made up in the same Mersolair fabric):

 

[the_sartorialist]

Originally Posted by aj_del

What are welted patch pockets ?

Regarding your q, either 2 patch or 3 patch but make sure you get the right shape for the breast patch

Apologies, should have been clearer. This is what I mean by welted patch pockets, i.e. there's a welt at the top of the pocket. Think I am still leaning towards a 'normal' welted breast pocket though.

 

[aj_del]

^^Ok, thanks for the clarification.

Dont like the Cifonelli. The one above yours is very nice

 

[the_sartorialist]

Originally Posted by aj_del

^^Ok, thanks for the clarification.

Dont like the Cifonelli. The one above yours is very nice

I'm with you - I think Peter Chong's suit above is a very classic design with the patch pockets and welted breast pocket.

And I thought I'd throw the Cifonelli options out there, just to see what people's thoughts were, but my guess is that the design is a bit aggressive, and rightly so.

 

[NorCal_1]

Originally Posted by knittieguy

This may anger the purists, but I would go with side patch pockets but leave the handkerchief pocket standard welt. Having a handkerchief patch pocket can look great, but it looks extremely casual and draws a lot of attention to itself. If done poorly it can also look costumey, as though you've stumbled into the 1920s.

+1

and 3 roll 2.5

 

[D Yizz]

This is the jacket of a suit I picked at Zara. Patch side pockets and regular chest pocket. Looks good as separate as well as with the matching pant. It's very light and comfortable.