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martingfx

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Excellent. How high did you have them do the trouser rise?
They sit right at my belly button, so a pretty drastic increase from the base pattern. I think the trousers drape well in the front but I get a lot of bunching below the seat... I’ve asked around and it seem to be a pattern issue due to my forward hips so not much to do about it.

Very nice! Is that a dark gray charcoal?
Thank you, yes it’s charcoal :)
 

Michael81

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They sit right at my belly button, so a pretty drastic increase from the base pattern. I think the trousers drape well in the front but I get a lot of bunching below the seat... I’ve asked around and it seem to be a pattern issue due to my forward hips so not much to do about it.

That's what I wanted as well, and they simply could not get it right. Three remakes over six months, still an unmitigated disaster. And it was definitely not just a case of the Helsinki people being bad at their jobs, a Dutch guy did the first fitting. Maybe I'm just deformed.

Non sequitur, but I've just been browsing the RTW offerings. I'm surprised at the blandness of the selection. And the fact that only about 50% of the jackets are available in long sizes. I get the impression they overextended themselves in the last few years. There was definitely more variety in the past.

It's a pity Spier and MacKay don't do much business in Europe. Their Neapolitan cut looks a lot nicer than any of the SuSu fits.
 

martingfx

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That's what I wanted as well, and they simply could not get it right. Three remakes over six months, still an unmitigated disaster. And it was definitely not just a case of the Helsinki people being bad at their jobs, a Dutch guy did the first fitting. Maybe I'm just deformed.

Non sequitur, but I've just been browsing the RTW offerings. I'm surprised at the blandness of the selection. And the fact that only about 50% of the jackets are available in long sizes. I get the impression they overextended themselves in the last few years. There was definitely more variety in the past.

It's a pity Spier and MacKay don't do much business in Europe. Their Neapolitan cut looks a lot nicer than any of the SuSu fits.
Did the guys in Helsinki wear high rise trousers themselves? Ted (the guy who did my fittings in Stockholm) and I have very similar style and like the same cut. I simply told him I wanted my trousers like the ones he wore that day.

Next time I will try bespoke trousers from Götrich to try and get rid of the bunching below the seat. Since I rarely wear suits I can spend more money on trousers and then get jackets from the SuSu Custom Made program.

I agree about S&M, their cuts look way better. Hopefully they will enter the European market in the future.
 

hschrapel

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That's what I wanted as well, and they simply could not get it right. Three remakes over six months, still an unmitigated disaster. And it was definitely not just a case of the Helsinki people being bad at their jobs, a Dutch guy did the first fitting. Maybe I'm just deformed.

Non sequitur, but I've just been browsing the RTW offerings. I'm surprised at the blandness of the selection. And the fact that only about 50% of the jackets are available in long sizes. I get the impression they overextended themselves in the last few years. There was definitely more variety in the past.

It's a pity Spier and MacKay don't do much business in Europe. Their Neapolitan cut looks a lot nicer than any of the SuSu fits.

Did the guys in Helsinki wear high rise trousers themselves? Ted (the guy who did my fittings in Stockholm) and I have very similar style and like the same cut. I simply told him I wanted my trousers like the ones he wore that day.

Next time I will try bespoke trousers from Götrich to try and get rid of the bunching below the seat. Since I rarely wear suits I can spend more money on trousers and then get jackets from the SuSu Custom Made program.

I agree about S&M, their cuts look way better. Hopefully they will enter the European market in the future.

I can confirm that S&M's Neo cut is superb. While I only have one Neapolitan jacket, it has got to be my favorite and very durable. I purchased it and had it sent internationally when I lived in Australia, so I avoided import charges thankfully. I did read recently in the S&M thread that a guy purchased his Navy Fresco suit for ~$600USD (forgot the exact cost) and paid around $300USD in import taxes and fees. He loved the suit none the less, but having a store in Europe would be a God-send.
 

Michael81

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@martingfx Everyone in Helsinki wears RTW stuff from what I can tell. The Dutch guy was an especially egregious example of toeing the party line. Super slim, short jacket and tight pants. The knees were completely misshapen and baggy. He never tried to push that aesthetic on me, but it was probably a doomed enterprise from the start.

That's an excellent idea. You could easily get the same fabrics, and SuSu jackets are generally decent. One of these days I'm gonna move to Stockholm.

@Hayden Schrapel It is streets ahead of the Havana in terms of relaxed elegance. It's a pity they are primarily a North American concern, but it's understandable. That's what I'd expect to pay in duties here. That's a hard pass.
 

pg600rr

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Anyone own the porto chinos? does the fit compare to Incotex slim? was looking for a hem at 7", I think the site lists 32" waist with a 7.3 hem but sometimes the measurements have been off once arrived. Thanks!
 

pomor

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@EUtroll I'm not really talking about rules. Just that most guys don't have the knowledge to make informed decisions about fit. I'm sure most people walk out of SuSu feeling like a million dollars. By contemporary standards, we're the weirdos.

This reminded me of the thread I bookmarked to read on here. I am just getting around to reading all 20 pages but I feel like it’s worth it. https://www.styleforum.net/threads/responding-to-the-suit-died-for-good-reasons.627887/
 

TheSupplier

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Did you guys see that Suitsupply brought back the Washington?

Lots of suits added.

Now if they would only bring back the Madison.. just two suits a season in a nice pattern and I’d be happy!
 

pomor

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I'm a two hour train ride away, so reasonably convenient. There are some independent stores which offer MTM, but they are pricey and, for me, the results were awful. Definitely not worth the hassle and cost. Suitsupply is not perfect but it offers incredible value by comparison. I'm pretty happy with the Custom made stuff I had made. Not a fan of the standard offerings, though.

@EUtroll I'm not really talking about rules. Just that most guys don't have the knowledge to make informed decisions about fit. I'm sure most people walk out of SuSu feeling like a million dollars. By contemporary standards, we're the weirdos.
Did you guys see that Suitsupply brought back the Washington?

Lots of suits added.

Now if they would only bring back the Madison.. just two suits a season in a nice pattern and I’d be happy!

I kind of liked the Washington-half with the patch pockets. Just a bit less shoulder padding and I could see wearing these a lot.
 

pomor

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Did you guys see that Suitsupply brought back the Washington?

Lots of suits added.

Now if they would only bring back the Madison.. just two suits a season in a nice pattern and I’d be happy!

Thanks! I wonder if this is the final spring/summer drop. Already getting ready for the outlet in less than 2 months and then fall/winter! I admit — I have enough stuff to last me a while. Only plan on adding a couple of items per season to my collection going forward
 

TheSupplier

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I wonder if they will do all three outlets like last time. That was pretty insane.

I really regret not buying that Red cashmere Jort Merano in Canada.

I might pickup the Jort Merano from last season for this winter.
 

ThePanda

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That's what I wanted as well, and they simply could not get it right. Three remakes over six months, still an unmitigated disaster. And it was definitely not just a case of the Helsinki people being bad at their jobs, a Dutch guy did the first fitting. Maybe I'm just deformed.

Non sequitur, but I've just been browsing the RTW offerings. I'm surprised at the blandness of the selection. And the fact that only about 50% of the jackets are available in long sizes. I get the impression they overextended themselves in the last few years. There was definitely more variety in the past.

It's a pity Spier and MacKay don't do much business in Europe. Their Neapolitan cut looks a lot nicer than any of the SuSu fits.

@Michael81 @martingfx @Betelgeuse What measurement for rise did you go with for your trousers? What is usual for mid to high rise?
 

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