1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 7: A Made-to-Measure suit from Lanieri

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 6th auction of the year is for a Made-to-measure suit from Lanieri. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

    Dismiss Notice
Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Suitsupply NYC

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by musicguy, Jun 20, 2011.

  1. Seattle206

    Seattle206 Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2014
    Original 40R:
    [​IMG]





    Altered 40R:

    [​IMG]
     


  2. SeaJen

    SeaJen Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,656
    Likes Received:
    4,598
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2012
     


  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,202
    Likes Received:
    2,734
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    This is the problem with SS, they like to go for aggressively nipped waists. The important part is to fit the shoulders and chest which cannot be easily altered. Forget about the waist first.

    A few quick observations. The 40R shoulder looks fine on you but the chest is too small, given the bowing of your lapels. You have a large torso it seems (football?) and that's going to be the challenge fitting you. If you look at the unaltered 40R from the front, the waist looks fine to me...no need to have nipped it at all. There's not enough room at the back, however, at the waist. Indeed, you might need to let it out.

    Do they have a 42 S? Does the lapel on the 42 lie flat on your chest without gaping? Have the SA take a chest measurement and then, you want the suit to be 2-4 inches more in circumference (2 for something fitted; 4 as a standard allowance)

    You need, as well, straight on shots. It's very hard to tell what is going on at the current angles.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2014


  4. zengy

    zengy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    53
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2014
    Location:
    Copenhagen, Denmark
    @Seattle206 . The Napoli cut is simply not the right for you. The unaltered 40R is a mess and it would be better for you to try a different cut.

    As I see it, York might be your only option. Because all other fits are more tight than Napoli and York, you'll need to size up, and by doing that the sleeves will be way too long. Otherwise, you could get the sleeve shortened from the shoulder, but that's €50 and you're not sure how it'll look (be careful with their tailoring services when it comes to more complicated alterations).

    Btw, are you generally having those creases around the shoulders blades on suits?

    Edit: Trying 42S will leave you with a sleeve being app. 1 inch shorter or so – not really wanted. And I wouldn't experiment with letting out the waist. Their suits are sewn on machines in China and often the seams leave heavy marks. At least that has been the case for me when letting out the trouser waist.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2014


  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    3,899
    Likes Received:
    4,745
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    The 42R doesn't look terrible, but it's not good either. The 42R is too big in the shoulders, but the chest is perfect. The sleeves are too long as well, so a 42S would be better.

    The 40R is nice in the shoulders, but too slim in the chest, as the lapels are still bowing. The unaltered 40R looks much better than the altered one.

    Try a Lazio or Havana in 42S, the shoulders should be a bit slimmer than the Napoli if I remember correctly.

    Different cut 42S>unaltered 40R Napoli>42R Napoli>altered 40R Napoli
     


  6. zengy

    zengy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    53
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2014
    Location:
    Copenhagen, Denmark
    Probably because the SA only looked from the front. I know that the biggest obstacles for them when opening a new store is finding qualified staff. Obviously, they didn't succeed in this case.
     


  7. Seattle206

    Seattle206 Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2014
    I will try on a 42S tomorrow. The 42 lapel lies better on my chest. I will ask for a measurement tomorrow & take better pictures. Thank you!



    It might be too late to try on the York now since my suit has been altered (I will see what management can do for me). I haven't tried on enough suits to notice the creasing (1st suit). Thank you for your advice!


    Lose/lose situation for me it seems. I tried on the Havana today and the back wasn't so wrinkled on the waist, but forgot if it was a 40 or 42.



    My options right now based on "Different cut 42S>unaltered 40R Napoli>42R Napoli>altered 40R Napoli" would be to go with the unaltered 40R Napoli unless I can convince management to put my in a different suit that better fits me, but I don't see that happening.
     


  8. Ebichuman

    Ebichuman Senior Member

    Messages:
    571
    Likes Received:
    160
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2011
    Location:
    North and East from the centre
    

    Also most of the SS staff I have encountered prefer to wear suits/jackets a size too small...
     


  9. Seattle206

    Seattle206 Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2014
    I would say I have an athletic build body. Broad shoulders. Large Torso. Slim waist. Large rear & legs. Might have to resort to MTM?
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2014


  10. zengy

    zengy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    53
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2014
    Location:
    Copenhagen, Denmark
    I would go MTM – it's worth the upcharge. You'll have access to full-canvas and loads of customization details such as lapel width, shoulder construction, buttoning point, 3-roll-2, lining, side adjusters, buttons etc.

    Edit: And afaik you can order an extra pair of pants.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2014


  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,202
    Likes Received:
    2,734
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    I think you can make a good case (be friendly but firm) that you were sold a suit that was one size too small in the chest given the lapel bowing. That's just a fitting 101 blunder. You can figure out what would be a reasonable compensation for this. In the worst case, they should let out the waist again and you will have to wear it unbuttoned. But they should compensate you somehow.

    I also think that given your physique, for OTR, you won't need to nip the waist and can use a little more room at the waist (models will vary). Your torso needs no help in being emphasized (which is partly what the nipped waist does for us less shapely folk). Magnifying it by aggressive waist nipping tends to be feminizing. I take the point by another poster about the stitching showing on the material, though shouldn't usually be a problem with wool.

    Monkeyface is right about the shoulders. The 42 is passable but the 40R shoulder fits you; you need that with the 42 chest.

    On MTM: this is tricky. You need a 42 chest but 40 shoulder. I don't know if they can do that but other posters can weigh in (I assumed that they start with a 40 body, for example, and then adjust that pattern). But you should ask. Note also that the MTM person is not a tailor and you might run into the same problems as with a bad SA. It is important to approach that process with lots of knowledge.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2014


  12. SamF

    SamF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2014
    On the MTM note: that's the way I'm considering going for my next suit, but I'm apprehensive for the reasons TweedyProf mentions above. When I went to get my first suit, I remember being served by a sales assistant who was wearing a suit that was way too small for him, pulling everywhere, trousers basically above his ankles and sleeves equally short. I would definitely not be comfortable with him being the guy who I went through the MTM process with. So for anyone that has done the MTM process with Suit Supply, maybe @timotune ? Who is it who takes you through the process and sorts the fit etc? Is it just a case of trying to make sure you get a good SA?
     


  13. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,202
    Likes Received:
    2,734
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    I've done it. They have MTMspecialists but mine didn't have any real background in tailoring. Was trained by SS. Ithink it can work if you don't present major challenges and you know what you want and how things should look. Otherwise it is no guarantee. Timos last mtm on his tumblr was pretty amazing so I'd like to here from him.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2014


  14. indigoroots

    indigoroots Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    58
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2013
    Location:
    Durham, NC
    I realize the dress shirt sleeves are a little long and am waiting for my MTM shirt to arrive.
    In the meantime, I would love to hear some feedback on the fit of this unaltered 36S Napoli. The shoulders feel great but the suit billows out frontwards below the waist. Is this an easy tailoring fix or do I need to pick another suit model / size? Do the suit sleeve lengths look ok unaltered?

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  15. Ebichuman

    Ebichuman Senior Member

    Messages:
    571
    Likes Received:
    160
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2011
    Location:
    North and East from the centre
    Why did you go with short? :puzzled:

    Jacket sleeves are VERY short and so is the overall length....
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by