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Monkeyface

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@Monkeyface : The question was supposed to be asked in here in the extension of our talk about conservative business dress/business casual. Apologies if I confused you.

I was just wondering how a Neapolitan suit with patch pockets would be received in London (e.g. Havana), and if 10 cm lapels are inappropriate?

The Havana isn't exactly a Neapolitan suit, but I'm sure you'd be fine. I've seen people being called out on having a pocket on their shirt and subsequently that pocket being stuffed full of office supplies by everyone, but people are generally too busy to notice or care, which is the way it should be.

Having said that, if you have the choice it would probably be better to stick with regular flapped pockets, unless you're a rainmaker, then you can wear whatever you like. I've seen someone come in wearing jeans, a t-shirt, and sneakers, and no one said a thing.

The more structured British style is preferred in London, but that's more because of convenience than actual choice. Most of my suits are Italian, and these two are very Neapolitan: draped chest, wide lapels, unpadded spalla camicia shoulders, 3 roll 2, the whole shebang. An interesting detail is that lots of people tend to focus on side adjusters as a sign of a good suit, but that's probably because they're more common on bespoke than RTW.



 
Last edited:

MrTopCat

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I have a feeling I won't be keeping that Hudson three-piece which I ordered as I really did have my heart set on a Soho in navy. Plus the whole triple patch pockets and three-piece combination is kinda questionable.

I will try to take fit pics, as well as some of the details, and will measure the lapel width if it's of interest to anybody.

It should arrive by Tuesday or Wednesday!
 

StephenB

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For my fellow shorties, the SuitSupply website has a navy staple Napoli in 36S. This is kind of a rare bird (staple color in 36S).
 

markfjh

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For my fellow shorties, the SuitSupply website has a navy staple Napoli in 36S. This is kind of a rare bird (staple color in 36S).


How short are these short sized suits made for?

I'm about 5'7 or 170cm
 

citizenshame

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I think the second suit could easily be broken into separates. The first is solid, and unless it has a lot of texture, I'm worried it might look like an orphaned suit jacket.
 

ShawnBC

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I think the second suit could easily be broken into separates. The first is solid, and unless it has a lot of texture, I'm worried it might look like an orphaned suit jacket.

When you check the Suit Supply site, you'll notice that the first suit (York), although solid as you mention, has a slight pattern when you look up close. I could see it work as a separate, but then again, I'm not that anal about the whole suit separates/orphaned as SF groupthink might dictate.
 

zengy

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IMO, the York jacket is too much of a classic cut to be worn as an odd jacket, especially the length of it being one of Suitsupply's longest jackets. Texture and colorwise it would be fine though.
 

Monkeyface

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I suppose you could, but it's not ideal. The cut is not very suitable, the buttons are too dark, no patch pockets and the pattern is too small.

Suitsupply has patch pocket suits, so that would be much more appropriate. Get a navy suit with no pattern but some texture and patch pockets, and swap the buttons out and you'll have your own BlazerSuitTM!
 

StephenB

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Last edited:

zengy

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If anyone wears 94 (38L) and/or 98 (40L), here are the measurements for all current single breasted cuts (I got annoyed by comparing online, so typed the crap into excel). Only convenient if you don't know your size in each cut.

Size Shoulder Chest Upper Waist Sleeve Back length Waist trouser Foot width 0,5*Shoulder + Sleeve
York


94 45,4 108,4 93,0 65,1 80,0 84,0 19,5 87,8
98 46,5 112,4 97,0 66,0 81,0 88,0 20,0 89,3
Havana
94 45,0 105,0 93,0 65,6 78,0 84,0 19,5 88,1
98 46,0 109,0 97,0 66,5 79,0 88,0 20,0 89,5
Napoli
94 47,6 108,4 94,0 64,6 79,0 84,0 19,5 88,4
98 48,6 112,4 98,0 65,5 80,0 88,0 20,0 89,8
Lazio
94 45,0 106,0 92,0 65,6 79,0 84,0 19,5 88,1
98 46,0 110,0 96,0 66,4 80,0 88,0 20,0 89,4
Sienna
94 45,0 106,0 93,0 65,6 79,0 84,0 19,5 88,1
98 46,0 110,0 97,0 66,5 80,0 88,0 20,0 89,5
Washington
94 46,0 105,0 90,0 65,5 80,0 83,0 20,0 88,5
98 47,0 109,0 94,0 66,4 81,0 87,0 20,5 89,9
Washington Half
94 45,0 105,0 91,0 65,8 78,0 78,0 19,5 88,3
98 46,0 109,0 95,0 66,7 79,0 83,0 20,0 89,7
Smoking Peak
94 47,6 108,4 93,0 64,7 81,0 84,0 19,5 88,5
98 48,6 112,4 97,0 65,5 82,0 88,0 20,0 89,8
Smoking Shawl
94 45,0 105,0 93,0 65,6 78,0 84,0 20,3 88,1
98 46,0 109,0 97,0 66,5 79,0 88,0 20,8 89,5
Jort/La Spalla
94 45,0 106,0 91,0 65,6 78,0 84,0 19,5 88,1
98 46,0 110,0 95,0 66,4 79,0 88,0 20,0 89,4
 

mortgagebank

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Greetings - Anyone out there know how the waist measurement in the Eton slim fit compare size-wise to the SuitSupply slim fit? I was able to find the Eton waste measurement and its 114cm on a size 41 shirt size. However, the SuitSupply size guide doesn't specify waist measurement only chest. Based on the other measurements (chest to waist ratio) the Eton slim fit would appear to strikingly slim. Thanks in advance!

http://www.etonshirts.com/global/eton-story/shirt-guide/size-fit
 

zengy

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Greetings - Anyone out there know how the waist measurement in the Eton slim fit compare size-wise to the SuitSupply slim fit? I was able to find the Eton waste measurement and its 114cm on a size 41 shirt size. However, the SuitSupply size guide doesn't specify waist measurement only chest. Based on the other measurements (chest to waist ratio) the Eton slim fit would appear to strikingly slim. Thanks in advance!

http://www.etonshirts.com/global/eton-story/shirt-guide/size-fit
I do not have exact measurements as I do not own a Suitsupply shirt due to my monkey arms, where Eton comes to play as one of the best fitting RTW shirts for me due to the slightly longer arms than normal shirts.

I have tried both slim fit and extra slim fit from Suitsupply, though. SS slim fit is much more boxy than Eton slim fit – both in the chest and waist. Eton slim fit is more comparable to SS extra slim fit, but still slimmer.

I hope that was helpful.
 

markfjh

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