Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by musicguy, Jun 20, 2011.
If anyone wants to unload some 36/38R pieces pls let me know!
Slightly off-topic but here's a nice article on lapels (straight vs curved) and lapel gapes. A curve is not necessarily bad (apparently) but a gape is.
My suits kinda drape off my chest rather than my shoulder causing the curve, as can be seen here.
I have some lapel gape that might be #7 on the 6 part list, though probably just tied to #2, the chest being too tight.
I am built like a cross country runner with very square shoulders; long and lean. I have the shoulders to wear a size 40 jacket, the chest for a size 38, and the waist of a size 32 pant. I wear a 38R Napoli and 38L Lazio (or at least I should). I have a 38L Havana, but probably need the 40R. The Napoli shoulders are perfect but I have to trim the body. The Lazio body is perfect but shoulders a touch snug, same for Havana.
If you were to compare my front to my profile, you'd see a wider side-to-side than front-to-back, if that makes sense. When I stand up straight, as in shoulders back, head and chest up, every single one of my suits bows a bit and creates the gape. When I roll my shoulders forward a little, still generally upright but just a touch of slack (for me), i.e. the SF-approved robo pose, then everything lays cleanly.
I probably should have the chest of my suits cut a little wider to make up for the drape. But if I go too much then I feel like it is too big on me. I have been fighting what to do about this for years.
A Lazio afternoon at the keyboard.
I would make a pun about the Washington fit, but I can't think of one.
So my new Hudson in pure linen arrived. If I could choose, I would prefer the jacket to be a tad longer, but overall, I am pretty pleased. It won´t need much tailoring apart from hemming the pant as far as I can tell, and the quality of the cloth is as usual very good. Timotune complained of plastic buttons, but as far as I can tell, the ones on my suit are of the same quality as on my other Suitsupply suits. Ordered wednesday, so great turnaorund time once Again.
Now all I need is for the temperature to pick up...
Looks nice. Still, the buttoning-point is much too high & the jacket too short.
Suit Supply Y U NO LOWER BUTTON STANCES????
I don't really obsess about the buttoning point. As far as I can tell, it is the same on all my SS suits give or take a cm. I have my jackets unbuttoned most of the time anyway. As for lenght, yes, it could be longer ( the angle of the photo exagerates thsi somewhat) . As long as it covers my rear ( which it does) I am fine. This is a casual suit, not one to be worn at formal events. So I'll live even if a few sartorial rules are breached
Well this confirms my fear of the Hudson cut shortness. It won't work for a guy with a sizeable backside.
I don't know which cuts you have tried so far Kulata, but I just compared the Hudson to my Washington ( which I believe is the longest). The difference is easily within an inch at the back...
I have sized up for the three pieces I have thus far, Washington, Havana and one DB jacket. All US44, so the length should already be one size bigger in theory.
Well, my one havana suit is at my dad's at the other end of the country, so I can't do a measurement here and now, but I am pretty sure thst it is shorter than the Hudson.
Again, Suitsupply might not cut their suits to the exact specifications of what the sages of the Row would recommend, but they are still a whole lot better than the alternatives within my budget. Most of my friends and colleagues wear fused Boss and Lindeberg, where the buttoning point is above the sternum and which hardly are long enough to cover your belt...
Looks good! Thanks for sharing. I was quite curious about the Hudson fit myself especially on how it compares to the Lazio fit. I assure you not one person outside of Style Forum will have any comments/concerns about the button stance or jacket length. It's all personal preference and I (personally) think it looks great.
My Linen Lazio will be ready today from alterations and I will be stopping SS Chicago tomorrow to pickup. So excited!
Not nearly as exciting or snazzy as steffenbp's, new Hudson, here is a new Su-Su bow tie.
Separate names with a comma.