Suitsupply NYC

[Jsm87]

Does anyone have the belted single-breasted "trench" or balmacaan (cotton or wool)? Care to comment on fit, features and general quality, compared to the archetypal raincoat makers of Burberry, Aquascutum, Grenfell

I received today the Dark Grey Herringbone (J919) "Balmacaan" or "Headington", by their nomenclature.

I sized down judging by the size guide and it's a little snug in upper body over a sportcoat, turtleneck and scarf, but still comfortable. It has 1% elastane, so it helps a bit. If you prefer a more relaxed fit, buy your usual suit jacket size.

I find the general quality to be pretty good for the price, it is 91% wool 8% cashmere and 1% elastane, as I said. The body lining is 100% cupro and sleeves are ~61% viscose and ~39% polyester, unfortunately. The custom made ones are 100% cupro in sleeves, as well. I can't find what density it is, but it feels mid weight.

It has most of the features of a balmacaan coat, the only one missing is the "throat latch" that is used to secure the throat area in storms/wind. They also have other models that are unlined, but I recommend getting it lined.

I can't compare it to similar coats because it's the first balmacaan that I've tried, but looking online, at similar price, I think the Spier and Mackay one is better and I would have got it, but I'm from EU and don't want to risk a possible return.

I recommend trying it if you are looking for a "balmacaan", but if you actually want a "trench coat", look for something else, because it doesn't have the design of a true classic trench coat.

 

[TimothyF]

I received today the Dark Grey Herringbone (J919) "Balmacaan" or "Headington", by their nomenclature.

I sized down judging by the size guide and it's a little snug in upper body over a sportcoat, turtleneck and scarf, but still comfortable. It has 1% elastane, so it helps a bit. If you prefer a more relaxed fit, buy your usual suit jacket size.

I find the general quality to be pretty good for the price, it is 91% wool 8% cashmere and 1% elastane, as I said. The body lining is 100% cupro and sleeves are ~61% viscose and ~39% polyester, unfortunately. The custom made ones are 100% cupro in sleeves, as well. I can't find what density it is, but it feels mid weight.

It has most of the features of a balmacaan coat, the only one missing is the "throat latch" that is used to secure the throat area in storms/wind. They also have other models that are unlined, but I recommend getting it lined.

I can't compare it to similar coats because it's the first balmacaan that I've tried, but looking online, at similar price, I think the Spier and Mackay one is better and I would have got it, but I'm from EU and don't want to risk a possible return.

I recommend trying it if you are looking for a "balmacaan", but if you actually want a "trench coat", look for something else, because it doesn't have the design of a true classic trench coat.

Greatly appreciate your detailed write-up. The one I'm looking at is their "trench" coat, which is the balmacaan pattern done in unlined waterproofed cotton. May I ask you to elaborate a bit on why you recommend lined, is it so the coat "slides" better in the sleeves and back?

For me the biggest pet peeve in terms of fit and comfort is a coat pulling on you and restricting movement, especially when the arms want to move forwards or upward. I know you sized down (I'm thinking I will stay true to size, or potentially go one up), but do you experience any mobility issues or pulling when you move around?

I've had two vintage Burberrys: terrific fabric and construction, terrible cut. Extremely low armhole, and not enough fabric in the back. So that the coat binds the arms even when you go one or two sizes up, all the while you look engulfed in fabric everywhere else. I will want to try on Aquascutum and London Fog next, but it's luck of the draw with vintage pieces. Altogether vintage British made trench coats are the true classics, however based on experiences thus far I'm not sure I can find one that works for me

The classic makers did make single-breasted belted raincoats like this Balmacaan. With the only extra worthwhile features that I see being:

1. The extra flap of fabric at the upper back (too lazy to look up what its proper name is)
2. Rear vent is one continuous piece of fabric folded on itself (see #1, too lazy to look up what its proper name is)
3. Reach through side pockets, which allow you to access the trousers with a done up coat; very nice feature
4. Throat latch possibly (the ones with the tiny metal clasps are near unworkable in my view)

In terms of sewing details, the SuitSupply one looks like a bastard between Italian handsewn edges and machine done swelled edges in the classic raincoats. Assuming the fabric is lighter than vintage coats, and it is unlined, I'm happy to classify this as a lightweight summer duster, and hope for a homerun in fit and silhouette

 

[Jsm87]

Greatly appreciate your detailed write-up. The one I'm looking at is their "trench" coat, which is the balmacaan pattern done in unlined waterproofed cotton. May I ask you to elaborate a bit on why you recommend lined, is it so the coat "slides" better in the sleeves and back?

For me the biggest pet peeve in terms of fit and comfort is a coat pulling on you and restricting movement, especially when the arms want to move forwards or upward. I know you sized down (I'm thinking I will stay true to size, or potentially go one up), but do you experience any mobility issues or pulling when you move around?

I've had two vintage Burberrys: terrific fabric and construction, terrible cut. Extremely low armhole, and not enough fabric in the back. So that the coat binds the arms even when you go one or two sizes up, all the while you look engulfed in fabric everywhere else. I will want to try on Aquascutum and London Fog next, but it's luck of the draw with vintage pieces. Altogether vintage British made trench coats are the true classics, however based on experiences thus far I'm not sure I can find one that works for me

The classic makers did make single-breasted belted raincoats like this Balmacaan. With the only extra worthwhile features that I see being:

1. The extra flap of fabric at the upper back (too lazy to look up what its proper name is)
2. Rear vent is one continuous piece of fabric folded on itself (see #1, too lazy to look up what its proper name is)
3. Reach through side pockets, which allow you to access the trousers with a done up coat; very nice feature
4. Throat latch possibly (the ones with the tiny metal clasps are near unworkable in my view)

In terms of sewing details, the SuitSupply one looks like a bastard between Italian handsewn edges and machine done swelled edges in the classic raincoats. Assuming the fabric is lighter than vintage coats, and it is unlined, I'm happy to classify this as a lightweight summer duster, and hope for a homerun in fit and silhouette

I recommend it lined if you get the "winter" coat, for added warmth and to slide it easier, as you said. For a cotton trench coat, definitely go unlined, you want a thin waterproof layer.

Initially, I tried my regular jacket size and it was slightly more comfortable on top of a sportcoat and turtleneck/shirt, but the armholes were very low and this pulled a lot when raising hands, which was made worse because I also like to tighten the belt pretty tight and it was basically raising the whole coat. With the smaller size, the armholes are slightly higher and it doesn't pull as much. For this reason, I don't recommend sizing up, at most stay at your regular jacket size. I have a bigger than average back and the regular jacket size definitely had enough room. The only downside of the smaller size is that it's a little more fitted at chest/shoulders and upper arms, while the waist is still large, but this is also because of my body proportions. The elastane helps a bit. On the back it has a decent amount of fabric, it also has the inverted box pleat which opens and helps when reaching forward/up.

As you said, this pattern lacks some of the features of a true trench coat. It depends on how important are those for you. The "reach through side pockets" actually sound like a very useful feature, I didn't know about something like this. I also think the throat latch can come in useful when the weather gets worse. As it is, you can't completely protect the throat area. Personally, I like the defining features of a trench coat, so I can't recommend getting it in this design, but if you are ok with it, try it.

I looked up the price of the trench coat and I see that it is lower than the "balmacaan" so I think it may be a good value, after all.

P.S: The upper back fabric is a "storm flap".

 

[TimothyF]

I recommend it lined if you get the "winter" coat, for added warmth and to slide it easier, as you said. For a cotton trench coat, definitely go unlined, you want a thin waterproof layer.

Initially, I tried my regular jacket size and it was slightly more comfortable on top of a sportcoat and turtleneck/shirt, but the armholes were very low and this pulled a lot when raising hands, which was made worse because I also like to tighten the belt pretty tight and it was basically raising the whole coat. With the smaller size, the armholes are slightly higher and it doesn't pull as much. For this reason, I don't recommend sizing up, at most stay at your regular jacket size. I have a bigger than average back and the regular jacket size definitely had enough room. The only downside of the smaller size is that it's a little more fitted at chest/shoulders and upper arms, while the waist is still large, but this is also because of my body proportions. The elastane helps a bit. On the back it has a decent amount of fabric, it also has the inverted box pleat which opens and helps when reaching forward/up.

As you said, this pattern lacks some of the features of a true trench coat. It depends on how important are those for you. The "reach through side pockets" actually sound like a very useful feature, I didn't know about something like this. I also think the throat latch can come in useful when the weather gets worse. As it is, you can't completely protect the throat area. Personally, I like the defining features of a trench coat, so I can't recommend getting it in this design, but if you are ok with it, try it.

I looked up the price of the trench coat and I see that it is lower than the "balmacaan" so I think it may be a good value, after all.

P.S: The upper back fabric is a "storm flap".

Thanks for the sizing tips, I did not anticipate low armholes. Hopefully my local store will have multiple sizes of this for me to try on. In terms of length did it reach your knees? (obviously this is height-dependent) If you are not wearing the sportcoat, which may pull by itself, does the balmacaan still pull on you when you reach forward? I can guess that with low armholes, you need the inverted box pleat to open in the waist/butt region, which it obviously does not due to the belt loops.

Being from the EU, there should be a good amount of vintage trench coats in decent condition if you want to look. For Burberry, you want the tag to say Burberrys' not Burberry for the good stuff. In addition to the double-breasted trench, in single-breasted they have the belted balmacaan (which removes non-functional trench features like epaulettes, but sadly also has just a regular center vent); and the fly-front A-silhouette raincoat. The blended fabrics are more durably and probably more water resistant than 100% cotton. And as far as I know all vintage Burberrys have that reach through front pocket feature.

BTW the bottom "filled in" vent is called a wedged back apparently

 

[Jsm87]

In terms of length did it reach your knees? (obviously this is height-dependent)

I'm only 175 cm and it reaches just after the knee capsule. I'm actually wondering if I should shorten it 4-5 cm so it will be just where the knee starts. What's your take on this?

If you are not wearing the sportcoat, which may pull by itself, does the balmacaan still pull on you when you reach forward?

With just knitwear or a shirt, it didn't pull as much.

Being from the EU, there should be a good amount of vintage trench coats in decent condition if you want to look. For Burberry, you want the tag to say Burberrys' not Burberry for the good stuff.

Will take a look, now that you mention it. I really want a classic trench coat. Thanks for the tag brand tip. I'm looking for a 100% cotton one or at least 50-60% cotton.

 

[TimothyF]

I'm only 175 cm and it reaches just after the knee capsule. I'm actually wondering if I should shorten it 4-5 cm so it will be just where the knee starts. What's your take on this?

As long as it's not above the knee, I'm ok with it. 4-5cm is less than 2 inches, so a small adjustment. At the end of the day this is an art not a science; feel free to post a pic if you want to get a visual impression (as opposed to discussion only, which is an intellectual impression)

We are basically the same height. I'm relatively thin and slight build at around 135 pounds. If that's like your build I would caution that vintage rainwear tends to be somewhat oversized, and can easily overwhelm a smaller build (especially the DB variety). I would guess you want to get the Short size, not the Regular

For Burberry, the most popular fabric composition seems to be 51% cotton, 49% polyester (there's also 33% cotton). That is quite good. For lighter colors, you'd want to watch out for stains

 

[ShipItBalla]

Suitsupply back on Otrium it seems....

 

[eddyroxx]

Are they EU exclusive?
I keep getting emails but the link just leads to an error page

 

[ShipItBalla]

I am in the EU. Maybe it is...?
Placed 2 orders already, and a third is in the works...

 

[Davakint]

Are they EU exclusive?
I keep getting emails but the link just leads to an error page

Pretty sure it is yeah. However you should be able to access the website. If you need someone to proxy for you, just shoot me a message.

 

[smshopping]

I'd throw in a recommendation for the new "milano" pants (or the 'straight leg' by their new nomenclature). They're very comfortable for me (slightly larger thighs and calves, but not huge). They're slim enough in the leg that they don't look overly trendy or dated, just a nice middle ground and I'd say a classic look, or thereabouts. They're also available in various types of wool, cotton, and flannels.

Do you have any input on the hip and seat area? Im more into pleats because they provide added room for confort. The Milano doesnt have pleats so im nervous to give them a try.

 

[Jsm87]

Do you have any input on the hip and seat area? Im more into pleats because they provide added room for confort. The Milano doesnt have pleats so im nervous to give them a try.

I tried them and it depends a lot on your body type. If you have slightly bigger seat/upper thigh, they will be a little tight. If you tried the Vigo model, Milano fits tighter in those areas because of the lack of pleats. The front rise was also a little bit too low for my liking, lower than Vigo. The knee and leg opening fit was pretty good, tho, much better than Vigo which is way too tapered.

 

[smshopping]

I tried them and it depends a lot on your body type. If you have slightly bigger seat/upper thigh, they will be a little tight. If you tried the Vigo model, Milano fits tighter in those areas because of the lack of pleats. The front rise was also a little bit too low for my liking, lower than Vigo. The knee and leg opening fit was pretty good, tho, much better than Vigo which is way too tapered.

Thank you this was very informative.

 

[ShipItBalla]

Suitsupply back on Otrium it seems....

And it's gone again...

 

[Mariokartfever]

And it's gone again...