Suitsupply NYC

[A-Lawson]

Yup 😄 on a side note, my custom made is based on size 52. However, I am transitioning to another weight class and considering basing my custom made on size 54. Would you happen to know if parameters such as slopeness etc are the same on 52 and 54?

Without asking them personally, I have a hard time believing otherwise. Would make little sense for the standard slope/angle of their jackets to vary between sizes in a significant way. Other things could change minimally across sizes to keep the proportions and balance when changing the parameters, but since you're only sizing up one size you will not really notice.

 

[Dan Dynamic]

What is the difference between unconstructed and natural shirt shoulders?

I can not find any photos showing them.

I tried this jacket in Denmark but the sales associates did not know what type of shoulders these were. I want to make a jacket having these shoulders.

 

[A-Lawson]

What is the difference between unconstructed and natural shirt shoulders?

I can not find any photos showing them.

I tried this jacket in Denmark but the sales associates did not know what type of shoulders these were. I want to make a jacket having these shoulders.

View attachment 1931379

Unconstructed = no padding, natural shirt shoulders = minimal padding and the sleeve head is attached underneath the shoulder, as shown below:

Even if your picture has poor resolution, to me it does not look like shirt shoulders. It's probably the "natural" shoulder, in my estimation. Unconstructed shoulders rarely look as smooth OTR.

 

[Dan Dynamic]

Unconstructed = no padding, natural shirt shoulders = minimal padding and the sleeve head is attached underneath the shoulder, as shown below:

Even if your picture has poor resolution, to me it does not look like shirt shoulders. It's probably the "natural" shoulder, in my estimation. Unconstructed shoulders rarely look as smooth OTR.

I wish SuitSupply had a library of some sort with real life illustrations of their styles. Anyways, this is the natural shoulders:

They look a lot more structured and bumpy than the one I initially posted. Nevertheless, since there is free return I might try the natural shirt one.

On a side note, I should probably invest some time in taking better pictures

 

[bemed]

Hello everybody,
first of all: apologies for the bad image quality in the first picture as my apartment only allows for two possible kinds of shoots: brightest backlight or artificial light only. I'd still be grateful for some feedback on the fit of this peak lapel grey glencheck pattern suit with pleated natural shoulders. (Added some older images which, however, do not show the fit that well.) The suit is from the custom-made program as I have difficulties with the button stance of the SuSu off-the-rack suits. To my mind, the stance here is still a bit high but in the realm of "acceptable" (and if I compare it to the images on the SuSu website, this is probably the button height they are aiming for).
Thank you for your comments in advance!
Best wishes
PS: The shirt in the first picture is a bit too short but with a regular shirt the cuffs come out quite nicely.

 

[Dan Dynamic]

Hello everybody,
first of all: apologies for the bad image quality in the first picture as my apartment only allows for two possible kinds of shoots: brightest backlight or artificial light only. I'd still be grateful for some feedback on the fit of this peak lapel grey glencheck pattern suit with pleated natural shoulders. (Added some older images which, however, do not show the fit that well.) The suit is from the custom-made program as I have difficulties with the button stance of the SuSu off-the-rack suits. To my mind, the stance here is still a bit high but in the realm of "acceptable" (and if I compare it to the images on the SuSu website, this is probably the button height they are aiming for).
Thank you for your comments in advance!
Best wishes
PS: The shirt in the first picture is a bit too short but with a regular shirt the cuffs come out quite nicely.
View attachment 1931429
View attachment 1931437

View attachment 1931439

View attachment 1931441

How does the back look like?

 

[bemed]

How does the back look like?

Falls straight, no wrinkles, no pulling… I'll upload a photo as soon as I get a proper one. (Not quite happy with the pictures I get with the self-timer). Only thing that actually worries me a bit is the height of the button stance...

 

[Dan Dynamic]

Falls straight, no wrinkles, no pulling… I'll upload a photo as soon as I get a proper one. (Not quite happy with the pictures I get with the self-timer). Only thing that actually worries me a bit is the height of the button stance...

I am far from an expert, but I too am experimenting with button stance. IMO I would lower it slightly but take my words with a grain of salt.

 

[A-Lawson]

I wish SuitSupply had a library of some sort with real life illustrations of their styles. Anyways, this is the natural shoulders:

View attachment 1931383
They look a lot more structured and bumpy than the one I initially posted. Nevertheless, since there is free return I might try the natural shirt one.

On a side note, I should probably invest some time in taking better pictures

Well, then you have your answer. The shoulders on your last picture looks like "lightly padded" as they look on me, but then again I have unevenly sloped shoulders.

 

[A-Lawson]

Hello everybody,
first of all: apologies for the bad image quality in the first picture as my apartment only allows for two possible kinds of shoots: brightest backlight or artificial light only. I'd still be grateful for some feedback on the fit of this peak lapel grey glencheck pattern suit with pleated natural shoulders. (Added some older images which, however, do not show the fit that well.) The suit is from the custom-made program as I have difficulties with the button stance of the SuSu off-the-rack suits. To my mind, the stance here is still a bit high but in the realm of "acceptable" (and if I compare it to the images on the SuSu website, this is probably the button height they are aiming for).
Thank you for your comments in advance!
Best wishes
PS: The shirt in the first picture is a bit too short but with a regular shirt the cuffs come out quite nicely.
View attachment 1931429
View attachment 1931437

View attachment 1931439

View attachment 1931441

Pictures without a shirt are always useless, since the jacket's shoulders and collar will fall differently without it.

From what I can see, the button stance is about 1/2'' too high (could probably drop the jacket the same amount in length), and the sleeves are a bit too long in one picture, and look much shorter in another. Based on the third picture, I think it's safe to say you need to shorten them at least 1/4''. If the back is truly clean and it falls nicely over your hips (which it doesn't seem like from the first picture), I guess the waist is OK, but it looks a bit snug to me. I can't imagine it being very comfortable after a few beers or a large meal. Based on the third picture, you could probably benefit from a 1/4'' increase on the chest as well, although that would require adding a little to your waist as well - perhaps 1/2''.

Trousers look like they sit very low on your hipbone. Ideally they should sit around the button point on your natural waist.

 

[kubaba5]

Hello everybody,
first of all: apologies for the bad image quality in the first picture as my apartment only allows for two possible kinds of shoots: brightest backlight or artificial light only. I'd still be grateful for some feedback on the fit of this peak lapel grey glencheck pattern suit with pleated natural shoulders. (Added some older images which, however, do not show the fit that well.) The suit is from the custom-made program as I have difficulties with the button stance of the SuSu off-the-rack suits. To my mind, the stance here is still a bit high but in the realm of "acceptable" (and if I compare it to the images on the SuSu website, this is probably the button height they are aiming for).
Thank you for your comments in advance!
Best wishes
PS: The shirt in the first picture is a bit too short but with a regular shirt the cuffs come out quite nicely.

Hello everybody,
first of all: apologies for the bad image quality in the first picture as my apartment only allows for two possible kinds of shoots: brightest backlight or artificial light only. I'd still be grateful for some feedback on the fit of this peak lapel grey glencheck pattern suit with pleated natural shoulders. (Added some older images which, however, do not show the fit that well.) The suit is from the custom-made program as I have difficulties with the button stance of the SuSu off-the-rack suits. To my mind, the stance here is still a bit high but in the realm of "acceptable" (and if I compare it to the images on the SuSu website, this is probably the button height they are aiming for).
Thank you for your comments in advance!
Best wishes
PS: The shirt in the first picture is a bit too short but with a regular shirt the cuffs come out quite nicely.

Isn’t actually 2,5 button option lowering a button a bit? This is at least what it seems on custom made visualisation.

Btw, what is the base of this suit (Lazio or?) and what size of the lapel is that? Standard or wide peak?

 

[A-Lawson]

Isn’t actually 2,5 button option lowering a button a bit? This is at least what it seems on custom made visualisation.

Btw, what is the base of this suit (Lazio or?) and what size of the lapel is that? Standard or wide peak?

2.5 lowers it about 1/4'' or so, yes.

As far as I know you only get Lazio as a base now. My guess is that these are the standard width lapels, as they don't have the stupid buttonhole placement of the wide lapels.

 

[Dan Dynamic]

2.5 lowers it about 1/4'' or so, yes.

As far as I know you only get Lazio as a base now. My guess is that these are the standard width lapels, as they don't have the stupid buttonhole placement of the wide lapels.

I got measured in store when I was at Stockholm. I was told that the custom made is based on a pattern called Lazio La Spalla, which supposedly is a variant of Lazio. Not sure exactly the different parameters but I felt that the La Spalla was a bit fuller, for instance bigger armholes.

 

[gimpwiz]

La Spalla is, IIRC, also the only line of fully canvassed suits. Since quite a few order their MTM suits with full canvassing, it makes sense that that's the base. Probably a manufacturing thing. Though when I look online right now, I can seemingly do (eg) a Havana with full canvas.

 

[kubaba5]

2.5 lowers it about 1/4'' or so, yes.

As far as I know you only get Lazio as a base now. My guess is that these are the standard width lapels, as they don't have the stupid buttonhole placement of the wide lapels.

Thanks for reply. I am now in front of decision of what type of lapels to choose in Custom Order for a grey sportcoat I want to make. I was opting to choose the peak lapels, but was afraid that standard will be too narrow and wide will be just too off and not my style. Those from the picture of @bemed look however pretty good. I am also considering those new concave which looks kind of like in neo cut in S&M sportcoats. What do you think guys?

Btw. Those concave lapels in custom made/poster by some of users here and the concave visible on the SuSu site in their Roma suite look totally different. On the visualization they are curved and in these roma suits they looks like just kind of a standard wide lapel...