Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by musicguy, Jun 20, 2011.
They look good. Glad you like them.
For a length comparison, on the left is a 38R in the Napoli, on the right is a 38L in the Havana.
so IRL is it a brown-based mixture of colors, or is there a pattern within it?
I'd describe it as a melange of different threads, with dark brown predominating. As you can hopefully see in photos, there are blue, grey, and cream threads as well, and a faint darker brown check on top of the main brown of the jacket. From a medium distance it kind of blurs together to create a brown jacket with a lot of textural/colour interest, but it's definitely not a solid colour even then. BTW, I suspect the jacket that Braddock is wearing in this post from the waywrn thread from yesterday is also the same one, and his photo is taken in natural light:
IRL, I feel that the jacket comes across a little more brown than both our photos suggest. I think the silk in the blend acts to make it seem slightly more grey in photos (and gives it the appearance of more sheen) than it actually is. Between all the photos, you should get an idea of what it's like, though. Hope that helps!
amazing holdfast. exactly the picture and elaboration i needed, answers my question regarding length and fit
Did you alter the Napoli? It looks pretty slim on you. From what I gather Napoli fit is loose compared to others. Did you order your TTS?
No worries; glad it helps. I should add that technically, the Havana is labelled as a UK 35 rather than a 34. However, I think this is more technicality rather than anything else, as both the Napoli and the Havana are both also labelled as EU 44 and the Napoli is labelled as a UK 34. And I was an EU44/UK34 in the Soho too. So I think that might just a quirk of how Havana sizes are labelled within the UK. But I suppose worth mentioning so you have all the facts.
Looks great Holdfast. Thank you for the pictures and sharing your thoughts on the jacket. I'm much more inclined to make the purchase now.
edit - wrong thread
Yes, that Napoli was altered. If you go way back in the thread, to probably April or so in 2012 you'll see a post that I made comparing it to the charcoal Napoli I had bought a few months prior. If you find it, you'll see that I noted that the charcoal I didn't need to alter, but the navy I did. And my tailor went a little too far in bringing in the waist. One of these days I'll get around to letting it out some.
Holdfast -- could you tell us the shoulder measurement across the back that you usually wear? Do these Napoli/Havana suits measure close to the measurements given on the SS website?
Best way to measure shoulder width is to consider whether you'd like a "classic" fit or "euro" or modern/slim/whatever fit first...
Usually up to 44 chest is the safest candidate for slim fit.
So, a 40 chest in a classic fit would usually have a 19.25" shoulder width. In slim fit, it would be about 18". You have everything inbetween for wiggle room. You go up or down .25" at each size. So, if you have a 41.25 chest, you think to yourself that for a classic fit you'd need a 19.5" point to point or 18.25" slim fit. All based on how you are built or what you prefer. You use that general rule of thumb up or down. SO...if you were a 33" chest built like a child, you'd subtract .25" from either 19.25" or 18" depending on preference until you get to your size. In the case of a 33" preferring a slim fit, you'd go down to 16.25" because you're losing .25" per size OR 1.75" total. If you prefer classic, you'd go to 17.5" point to point.
What if you're a 45" chest? At that point, you should stay classic cuz slim is risky beyond a 44. SO...add .25" for every size beyond a 40. That equals 1.25". Added to 19.25" That's either gonna be 20.5" or somewhere close to that (+/- .25") depending on prominent or not prominent chest or blades. If you don't understand, find a good tailor to explain. If you went slim at that size, you'd add .25" per size on top of 18". That would come out to 19.25" ish. And it would be the most disgusting fitting jacket ever unless you're built like a bird in the chest and blades...and then it might gape in the collar because if you're that narrow at the shoulders, you're probably very square.
The male body is really quite predictable.
You either need to know your body or you need a good tailor to tell you what would work best for your shape. Too narrow and you will get divots or collar gapping. Too wide and you'll get shoulders that fall off yours, a chest fit that is quite drapey, and/or disproportionate shoulder to waist ratio.
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