Suitsupply NYC

[vdh7777]

You should go to a 36L. Other than the sleeves, the jacket is also too short and the buttoning point too high. Going to the L will improve on all of these.

Hi,

thanks very much for your feedback.
I was originally afraid the 36L might be too long as they state on the website it would be recommended for people 1.87m or higher (I'm 1.81m). I'll try that option when I go back to store before going custom if this doesn't work

 

[compuccesory]

Hi,

thanks very much for your feedback.
I was originally afraid the 36L might be too long as they state on the website it would be recommended for people 1.87m or higher (I'm 1.81m). I'll try that option when I go back to store before going custom if this doesn't work

I don't really know where the website's recommendation comes from. It makes no sense if you think about it. A 36L is going to be much shorter than a 46L, but you have to be over 1.87m to wear both of them?

 

[vdh7777]

I don't really know where the website's recommendation comes from. It makes no sense if you think about it. A 36L is going to be much shorter than a 46L, but you have to be over 1.87m to wear both of them?

Indeed you are right.
Here is another picture to make assessment easier. The jeans was a bit lower in rise so it added to the effect of jacket being short with the visible back pockets of the jeans.
Seems still bit short indeed.

 

[compuccesory]

Indeed you are right.
Here is another picture to make assessment easier. The jeans was a bit lower in rise so it added to the effect of jacket being short with the visible back pockets of the jeans.
Seems still bit short indeed.

View attachment 1557354

Put some dress shoes on and then take another look in the mirror. and see if you still think your jacket is the right length. The heels of most dress shoes are about 1" and visually it adds more than that to your height and length of your legs. The difference in length between an L and a R in most jackets is around usually around 1-2".

You can post pics if you want but I'm pretty sure you need a longer jacket.

 

[zurich64]

Hi,

thanks very much for your feedback.
I was originally afraid the 36L might be too long as they state on the website it would be recommended for people 1.87m or higher (I'm 1.81m). I'll try that option when I go back to store before going custom if this doesn't work

Jacket looks short. Going for 36L would probably work. Difference in jacket and sleeve length for R and L are known. You should be able to work out if the differences are enough to make it fit better.

 

[vdh7777]

Put some dress shoes on and then take another look in the mirror. and see if you still think your jacket is the right length. The heels of most dress shoes are about 1" and visually it adds more than that to your height and length of your legs. The difference in length between an L and a R in most jackets is around usually around 1-2".

You can post pics if you want but I'm pretty sure you need a longer jacket.

Jacket looks short. Going for 36L would probably work. Difference in jacket and sleeve length for R and L are known. You should be able to work out if the differences are enough to make it fit better.

Many thanks for both your answers.
Their havana chart shows going from 36R to 36L adds 2.5 cm sleevelength and 3cm backlength.
So seems about right that as you said.
Unfortunately 36L is not a size they carry in store RTW. L only starts up from 38.
I guess I'll have to go through custom order.
Do you guys see anything else that needs to be modified since I have to go the custom order path anyway?

 

[zewill]

Many thanks for both your answers.
Their havana chart shows going from 36R to 36L adds 2.5 cm sleevelength and 3cm backlength.
So seems about right that as you said.
Unfortunately 36L is not a size they carry in store RTW. L only starts up from 38.
I guess I'll have to go through custom order.
Do you guys see anything else that needs to be modified since I have to go the custom order path anyway?

To be honest jacket looks great. If you wanna wear modern look definitely not too short. For the old farts of styleforum (or old in their head, me included -im34) I would wear a bit longer - I'm a similar build to you and go for 38L. Im 6ft2 or 1.87meters.

That guy who told you to go custom.. lol. If you need to go custom then everyone needs to go custom (maybe that's what he meant). Going L size will also be cheaper as sleeves might be perfect (and it's cheaper to tailor trouser than sleeves - in addition to the problem of working button holes). I dunno how much you paid but the fit is very good - even better if you got outlet prices like we got a few months ago.

 

[vdh7777]

To be honest jacket looks great. If you wanna wear modern look definitely not too short. For the old farts of styleforum (or old in their head, me included -im34) I would wear a bit longer - I'm a similar build to you and go for 38L. Im 6ft2 or 1.87meters.

That guy who told you to go custom.. lol. If you need to go custom then everyone needs to go custom (maybe that's what he meant). Going L size will also be cheaper as sleeves might be perfect (and it's cheaper to tailor trouser than sleeves - in addition to the problem of working button holes). I dunno how much you paid but the fit is very good - even better if you got outlet prices like we got a few months ago.

Thanks for your input.
Unfortunately the L is not available in 36, only from 38 upwards
(the 36L, 90 in their system, is listed on the website, but there are no jackets in any model in that size)
So it looks like I have to go the custom path anyway.

I paid 399 EUR, which is a bit more on the upper mid end for SS I guess
Fabric is from Zegna and is dense and I think it plays a huge role in how the fabric drapes.
I tried Havana cut in other lighter VBC fabrics before and the overall shape was not as great as this one.

 

[zewill]

Thanks for your input.
Unfortunately the L is not available in 36, only from 38 upwards
(the 36L, 90 in their system, is listed on the website, but there are no jackets in any model in that size)
So it looks like I have to go the custom path anyway.

I paid 399 EUR, which is a bit more on the upper mid end for SS I guess
Fabric is from Zegna and is dense and I think it plays a huge role in how the fabric drapes.
I tried Havana cut in other lighter VBC fabrics before and the overall shape was not as great as this one.

Sizing up will not be an option unfortunately.
Then maybe indeed make use of their custom program. I never tried it but supposedly it can come out cheaper and you get your alterations.. ! Never took advantage of it because find the fit off the rack + a few alterations quicker and I'm impatient (even though turnaround times at susu are great!) I don't think you can play with sleeve pitch - do let us know! looking at your fit again I think the 36 is pretty great - especially with sportscoats worn with chinos or jeans, slightly shorter makes you look more well dressed without this pompous look of business attire (which looks great, but gotta admit you don't wanna be the penguin of your friends for a regular night outs (if those are still a thing with covid).
With that said I've bought so much lately (full canvas jort collection for 300$ or 200eur that I'm now fully convinced I will not buy anymore that is until I go in store and find some wonderful fabrics

 

[nevaeh]

To be honest jacket looks great. If you wanna wear modern look definitely not too short. For the old farts of styleforum (or old in their head, me included -im34) I would wear a bit longer - I'm a similar build to you and go for 38L. Im 6ft2 or 1.87meters.

That guy who told you to go custom.. lol. If you need to go custom then everyone needs to go custom (maybe that's what he meant). Going L size will also be cheaper as sleeves might be perfect (and it's cheaper to tailor trouser than sleeves - in addition to the problem of working button holes). I dunno how much you paid but the fit is very good - even better if you got outlet prices like we got a few months ago.

In some ways, this is the crux of the SF paradox. To a tailoring layperson like me, the jacket’s fit looks darn good. A few alterations, like extending the sleeve length, are needed—and, with working button holes, the spacing will be a bit off. Otherwise, it looks great. But it may not be proper based on tailoring rules, which, granted, come from much experience and expertise.

Something I always wonder about: We see static images here, so can observe minute details. But the jacket’s real application will be dynamic. Will folks even have a chance to notice any of these issues? Obviously, if the fit is way off, it’ll be bad any way you cut it. But if it’s 80% of the way there ...

Sizing up will not be an option unfortunately.
Then maybe indeed make use of their custom program. I never tried it but supposedly it can come out cheaper and you get your alterations.. ! Never took advantage of it because find the fit off the rack + a few alterations quicker and I'm impatient (even though turnaround times at susu are great!) I don't think you can play with sleeve pitch - do let us know! looking at your fit again I think the 36 is pretty great - especially with sportscoats worn with chinos or jeans, slightly shorter makes you look more well dressed without this pompous look of business attire (which looks great, but gotta admit you don't wanna be the penguin of your friends for a regular night outs (if those are still a thing with covid).
With that said I've bought so much lately (full canvas jort collection for 300$ or 200eur that I'm now fully convinced I will not buy anymore that is until I go in store and find some wonderful fabrics

The custom program does allow for a change of the sleeve pitch.

 

[compuccesory]

In some ways, this is the crux of the SF paradox. To a tailoring layperson like me, the jacket’s fit looks darn good. A few alterations, like extending the sleeve length, are needed—and, with working button holes, the spacing will be a bit off. Otherwise, it looks great. But it may not be proper based on tailoring rules, which, granted, come from much experience and expertise.

Something I always wonder about: We see static images here, so can observe minute details. But the jacket’s real application will be dynamic. Will folks even have a chance to notice any of these issues? Obviously, if the fit is way off, it’ll be bad any way you cut it. But if it’s 80% of the way there ...

Simon Crompton writes about this on Permanent Style fairly often.

Things that I don't think are noticeable in a dynamic environment and won't worry about too much:
- Minor sleeve pitch mismatch
- Minor shoulder dimples/extended shoulders
- Sleeves that are slightly too long or short. Sleeves go up and down when you move your arms, a 1" difference in sleeves just isn;t something anyone will notice.
- Your stupid working cuff buttons. You're not a 19th century surgeon. GTFO with that ****.

Things that absolutely everyone will notice:
- Jacket too short or tight. The length thing isn't some kind of arbitrary rule, the ratio of your upper and lower bodies will be off visually and someone who knows nothing about suits will still notice a jacket that's too short or long. I think the length is the single most important factor in fit and you can see an incorrect length from a mile away.
- Buttoning point too high. a too low buttoning point would also be noticible I guess but that's pretty rare these days. Most contemporary suits try to push the buttoning point as high as possible.
- Collar gap
- Things like lapel widths and collar size that are disproportionate to your frame and head size. Built like a linebacker and wearing skinny lapel Brooks Bros? Huge head and wearing tiny collar JCrew shirts? That **** absolutely is noticeable.
- I personally think collar roll is noticeable.
- Big guys with heavily structured shoulders. Very difficult to get the fit right and doesn't look good even if you do.

 

[vdh7777]

In some ways, this is the crux of the SF paradox. To a tailoring layperson like me, the jacket’s fit looks darn good. A few alterations, like extending the sleeve length, are needed—and, with working button holes, the spacing will be a bit off. Otherwise, it looks great. But it may not be proper based on tailoring rules, which, granted, come from much experience and expertise.

Sizing up will not be an option unfortunately.
Then maybe indeed make use of their custom program. I never tried it but supposedly it can come out cheaper and you get your alterations.. ! Never took advantage of it because find the fit off the rack + a few alterations quicker and I'm impatient (even though turnaround times at susu are great!) I don't think you can play with sleeve pitch - do let us know! looking at your fit again I think the 36 is pretty great - especially with sportscoats worn with chinos or jeans, slightly shorter makes you look more well dressed without this pompous look of business attire (which looks great, but gotta admit you don't wanna be the penguin of your friends for a regular night outs (if those are still a thing with covid).

Hi, thanks for your feedback guys !

I ended up going back in store to trade the jacket for a custom order with the modifications suggested by the guys here on length (+1.5 cm which is about half what 36L would be) and (sleeves +2.5 cm which is what 36L would be)

With the same fabric, is was only 30 EUR more, which is very acceptable.

 

[Marc S]

Hi, thanks for your feedback guys !

I ended up going back in store to trade the jacket for a custom order with the modifications suggested by the guys here on length (+1.5 cm which is about half what 36L would be) and (sleeves +2.5 cm which is what 36L would be)

With the same fabric, is was only 30 EUR more, which is very acceptable.

good choice sir!

 

[nevaeh]

Hi, thanks for your feedback guys !

I ended up going back in store to trade the jacket for a custom order with the modifications suggested by the guys here on length (+1.5 cm which is about half what 36L would be) and (sleeves +2.5 cm which is what 36L would be)

With the same fabric, is was only 30 EUR more, which is very acceptable.

Nicely done!

 

[jko]

In some ways, this is the crux of the SF paradox.

Indeed. My first thought was that this jacket is a mess. Shoulders too wide, upper back doesn't fit right, weird buttoning stance, sleeve pitch issue that is definitely not minor. That guy did right going custom. I guess it comes down to what standards you aspire to – most of the regular people won't notice but then again, this is SF.

But the jacket’s real application will be dynamic. Will folks even have a chance to notice any of these issues?

They might not notice the exact issues but they will be able to notice the difference between this jacket and a well-fitting one.