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dapperclassic

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Has anyone had a Havana single breasted custom made recently and selected the standard notch lapel?

The custom section on the website says they are 9.2cm wide which is a nice, classic width and i'd be happy with that. However, looking at the new FW20 RTW Havana's, the lapels look like they have shrunk again!

Or are they obtaining the measurement by measuring across the gorge line, rather than straight across.

Any insight would be much appreciated.
 

hschrapel

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Has anyone had a Havana single breasted custom made recently and selected the standard notch lapel?

The custom section on the website says they are 9.2cm wide which is a nice, classic width and i'd be happy with that. However, looking at the new FW20 RTW Havana's, the lapels look like they have shrunk again!

Or are they obtaining the measurement by measuring across the gorge line, rather than straight across.

Any insight would be much appreciated.
I have, and they are indeed 9cm
 

caschta

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I think you are mixing up things:
In Custom Made (from popular options, which features the RTW fits) there is no lapel width stated anywhere.
In Custom Made from Scratch they say the "normal" width is 9.2cm, which is the lapel width of the lazio / la spalla. It has nothing to do with a "Havana" fit.

But I agree it is irritating, since in the configurator, the havana "standard" lapel and havana "pleated" lapel are the same width, which they are most definitely not in RTW. And standard is too narrow in my opinion and would ruin the look of a jacket for me. Hence I never used it.
 

dapperclassic

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I think you are mixing up things:
In Custom Made (from popular options, which features the RTW fits) there is no lapel width stated anywhere.
In Custom Made from Scratch they say the "normal" width is 9.2cm, which is the lapel width of the lazio / la spalla. It has nothing to do with a "Havana" fit.

But I agree it is irritating, since in the configurator, the havana "standard" lapel and havana "pleated" lapel are the same width, which they are most definitely not in RTW. And standard is too narrow in my opinion and would ruin the look of a jacket for me. Hence I never used it.
Many thanks, yes you are absolutely right. I did select the 'start from scratch' option.
 

nevaeh

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Many thanks, yes you are absolutely right. I did select the 'start from scratch' option.
And, of course, nothing like going into the store--if you have one accessible to you. I had a few "start from scratch" suits made virtually a few months ago. And, while they are 90% there, an in-store initial fitting would've led to a better fit.
 
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I was told by SuitSupply HK that 'start from scratch' is no longer an option and that custom made is the only option left for custom left - is this the case for other regions too?
 

japejapejape

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I was told by SuitSupply HK that 'start from scratch' is no longer an option and that custom made is the only option left for custom left - is this the case for other regions too?
No, not in my case
And start from scratch Is really just a customizable lazio fit

does anyone know if you can choose one of the other fits in store and just make the same adjustments?
I have a start from scratch jacket and I actually think my Havana custom made jacket fits me better. I just want larger arm holes. Is this possible?
 

Marccarlsson

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No, not in my case
And start from scratch Is really just a customizable lazio fit

does anyone know if you can choose one of the other fits in store and just make the same adjustments?
I have a start from scratch jacket and I actually think my Havana custom made jacket fits me better. I just want larger arm holes. Is this possible?
No. You can make some adjustments to some of the standard fits, but more advanced adjustments are only available for the Lazio fit.
 

Baked Potato

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I have a issue with my wool trousers. The legs usually get stuck on my (OTC) socks. And yes, I do favor a tapered leg opening (37cm), so I'd prefer not to go any wider than that. I guess going with full lining is the solution (as recommended in store)? Are there any negative side effects (expect that it might get a tad bit hotter)?

My cotton trousers don't have that issue, but I guess there's more friction between woolen socks and woolen (flannel fabrics, primarily) trousers.
 

EthansAlley

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I have a issue with my wool trousers. The legs usually get stuck on my (OTC) socks. And yes, I do favor a tapered leg opening (37cm), so I'd prefer not to go any wider than that. I guess going with full lining is the solution (as recommended in store)? Are there any negative side effects (expect that it might get a tad bit hotter)?

My cotton trousers don't have that issue, but I guess there's more friction between woolen socks and woolen (flannel fabrics, primarily) trousers.
I’ve always had that same problem with over-the-calf (OTC) socks when I wear tapered, slim fit pants. As long as the pants are tapered and slim fit, I haven’t found that widening the pants’ circumference will make a difference and stop the pants sticking to the socks. You’ll also notice that many sartorialists who advocate for OTC socks typically don’t wear the tapered, slim fit pants, or else they’d know about the pants sticking problem. Thus, I don’t have any solutions other than to stop wearing the OTC socks and wear instead below-calf socks, which eliminates that problem. Because I wear shirt tail garters that connect to the socks, I don’t have an issue with the socks falling down.
 

Baked Potato

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I’ve always had that same problem with over-the-calf (OTC) socks when I wear tapered, slim fit pants. As long as the pants are tapered and slim fit, I haven’t found that widening the pants’ circumference will make a difference and stop the pants sticking to the socks. You’ll also notice that many sartorialists who advocate for OTC socks typically don’t wear the tapered, slim fit pants, or else they’d know about the pants sticking problem. Thus, I don’t have any solutions other than to stop wearing the OTC socks and wear instead below-calf socks, which eliminates that problem. Because I wear shirt tail garters that connect to the socks, I don’t have an issue with the socks falling down.
The thing is that I don't have that issue with cotton trousers. We did make the calf area of the trouser legs a bit wider last time, which reduced the the risk of the legs getting stuck (my prior pair of cotton trousers had a risk of getting stuck sometimes, but the legs fell down after a couple of seconds of walking). I'm going with a pair of flannel trousers next. I'm actually already making the leg opening one cm wider (I went with 36cm on my cotton trousers). That one extra cm plus the full lining should do something, I guess?
 

EthansAlley

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The thing is that I don't have that issue with cotton trousers. We did make the calf area of the trouser legs a bit wider last time, which reduced the the risk of the legs getting stuck (my prior pair of cotton trousers had a risk of getting stuck sometimes, but the legs fell down after a couple of seconds of walking). I'm going with a pair of flannel trousers next. I'm actually already making the leg opening one cm wider (I went with 36cm on my cotton trousers). That one extra cm plus the full lining should do something, I guess?
The lining may make a difference. A lot of times when my pants got stuck to the OTC socks were when they were flannel or worsted wool and unlined.
 

papado

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The thing is that I don't have that issue with cotton trousers. We did make the calf area of the trouser legs a bit wider last time, which reduced the the risk of the legs getting stuck (my prior pair of cotton trousers had a risk of getting stuck sometimes, but the legs fell down after a couple of seconds of walking). I'm going with a pair of flannel trousers next. I'm actually already making the leg opening one cm wider (I went with 36cm on my cotton trousers). That one extra cm plus the full lining should do something, I guess?
I've found the OTC sock cling is mainly driven by the knee width as opposed to the cuff width because that affects the degree of the taper--if the trouser gets too slim to the knee and downwards it can cause a mess. Maybe see if you can increase the knee width by 1cm as well (which would also keep trousers in same proportion as before if you've already increased cuff by 1cm)?
 

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