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saskatoonjay

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Yes, for several seasons in the recent past, they have mixed in prior season’s merchandise and even advertised it in the New Arrivals links. A lot of times they’ll change the model who models the clothes, and you will see from the photos that there are 2 different models wearing the same clothes. I’ve even seen them have older items that did not sell out on the Outlet, but then are relisted at full price as if they were current models. SuSu also has a few staple pieces that are available every season and never make it into the Outlet. The navy cashmere blazer and Giro Inglese blazer are 2 examples of those staple items.
And thank goodness for staple pieces. Some retailers seem to replace their whole lines every season. Even some reputable classic menswear places move their stock like it's fast fashion.
 

Baked Potato

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Thinking about ordering a navy flannel MtM jacket. I'll go with the full canvas option, but what'd you guys say about the lining? Should I go with full or half/butterfly? Wondering if it'll be a bit too hot if choosing full lining with a warmer fabric like flannel...
 

Jazzthief

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Thinking about ordering a navy flannel MtM jacket. I'll go with the full canvas option, but what'd you guys say about the lining? Should I go with full or half/butterfly? Wondering if it'll be a bit too hot if choosing full lining with a warmer fabric like flannel...
If you opt for a solid coloured lining that has no pattern then it means that you'll be getting a Bemberg lining that has great breathability. The non-polyester linings nowadays are very breathable and the choice of lining has more to do with style, weight and maybe drape depending on the weight of the fabric. It does not really matter in terms of breathability which lining (full, half, butterfly) you choose.

I have a double breasted suit in their regular navy flannel (Vitale Barberis Canonico, 290 gr/m²) that was made through their old made to measure programme. The jacket is fully canvassed and fully lined with Bemberg.

I run pretty hot - so much that I can be in the northern cold without gloves for an extended period of time without my hands getting or feeling cold - and I have not had problems with breathability and sweating with this suit/jacket. I even have worn it in the spring and in the evenings in the summer when the sun has already set. Not once have I had any issues with it being too warm as it is still a lighter flannel at only 290 gr/m².

So my suggestion would be to choose whichever type of lining you like the most stylistically as it really does not affect how hot it will get - as long as you choose Bemberg lining!

P.S. If you still are worried then you can choose the lighter two-layer canvas that will make the jacket slightly more lightweight, but also more breathable.
 
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Baked Potato

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If you opt for a solid coloured lining that has no pattern then it means that you'll be getting a Bemberg lining that has great breathability. The non-polyester linings nowadays are very breathable and the choice of lining has more to do with style, weight and maybe drape depending on the weight of the fabric. It does not really matter in terms of breathability which lining (full, half, butterfly) you choose.

I have a double breasted suit in their regular navy flannel (Vitale Barberis Canonico, 290 gr/m²) that was made through their old made to measure programme. The jacket is fully canvassed and fully lined with Bemberg.

I run pretty hot - so much that I can be in the northern cold without gloves for an extended period of time without my hands getting or feeling cold - and I have not had problems with breathability and sweating with this suit/jacket. I even have worn it in the spring and in the evenings in the summer when the sun has already set. Not once have I had any issues with it being too warm as it is still a lighter flannel at only 290 gr/m².

So my suggestion would be to choose whichever type of lining you like the most stylistically as it really does not affect how hot it will get - as long as you choose Bemberg lining!

P.S. If you still are worried then you can choose the lighter two-layer canvas that will make the jacket slightly more lightweight, but also more breathable.
I'm going with the same fabric! :) Yes, I'll choose a plain coloured lining. Would really like to go with one of their printed ones, but I'll rather have a fabric with more breathability than a "fun" print.

What'd you say about this setup for an all-around autumn/winter jacket? Full standard canvas, 2.5 buttoning, 1/2 lining, standard width notch lapels, 2mm AMF, boat shaped chest pocket, patch pockets and horn buttons? I'm a little unsure about the shoulder. Either soft or natural. I've also been thinking about the pleated shoulder option, but I'm going to play it safe this time.

Also, I guess that going with half lining won't mess up the drape of the jacket? I just hope that the flannel doesn't get stuck like velcro and needs to be pulled down every now and then...
 

Jazzthief

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I'm going with the same fabric! :) Yes, I'll choose a plain coloured lining. Would really like to go with one of their printed ones, but I'll rather have a fabric with more breathability than a "fun" print.

What'd you say about this setup for an all-around autumn/winter jacket? Full standard canvas, 2.5 buttoning, 1/2 lining, standard width notch lapels, 2mm AMF, boat shaped chest pocket, patch pockets and horn buttons? I'm a little unsure about the shoulder. Either soft or natural. I've also been thinking about the pleated shoulder option, but I'm going to play it safe this time.

Also, I guess that going with half lining won't mess up the drape of the jacket? I just hope that the flannel doesn't get stuck like velcro and needs to be pulled down every now and then...
It is a nice and classic design for a sportcoat - simply timeless and one of the "essentials" in my opinion. I myself do not like the "2.5" button configuration that Suitsupply has, but if it is to your liking then no problem! I would suggest a soft shoulder as it is more versatile in my opinion for smart casual and more suitable for more formal flannel outfits. Pleated shoulders are very comfortable if done right, but I do not have experience with Suitsupply's offering of pleated shoulders.

The half-lining will not affect the drape in this case as the jacket is fully canvassed and I do not see a reason why the fabric would need to be pulled down from time to time as the jacket drape of Suitsupply's garments has been stellar from my experience. If a jacket needs to be pulled down then the problem lies within the fabric or poor construction. Your planned sportcoat has neither of these issues.

P.S. Once again I have something to add after the fact. Some might consider this design to be boring, but I disagree. The base for every wardrobe should be classical and "timeless" pieces that you can combine with as many different garments as possible. Your design fits this criteria perfectly.
 
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Baked Potato

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It is a nice and classic design for a sportcoat - simply timeless and one of the "essentials" in my opinion. I myself do not like the "2.5" button configuration that Suitsupply has, but if it is to your liking then no problem! I would suggest a soft shoulder as it is more versatile in my opinion for smart casual and more suitable for more formal flannel outfits. Pleated shoulders are very comfortable if done right, but I do not have experience with Suitsupply's offering of pleated shoulders.

The half-lining will not affect the drape in this case as the jacket is fully canvassed and I do not see a reason why the fabric would need to be pulled down from time to time as the jacket drape of Suitsupply's garments has been stellar from my experience. If a jacket needs to be pulled down then the problem lies within the fabric or poor construction. Your planned sportcoat has neither of these issues.

P.S. Once again I have something to add after the fact. Some might consider this design to be boring, but I disagree. The base for every wardrobe should be classical and "timeless" pieces that you can combine with as many different garments as possible. Your design fits this criteria perfectly.
Thank you so much for your thorough reply!

That's exactly what I'm looking for - a wardrobe basic that works with everything. Nothing extravagant. :)
Also, might I ask what you dislike with Suitsupply's 2.5 buttoning configuration?
 

Jazzthief

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Thank you so much for your thorough reply!

That's exactly what I'm looking for - a wardrobe basic that works with everything. Nothing extravagant. :)
Also, might I ask what you dislike with Suitsupply's 2.5 buttoning configuration?
No problem!

Even though it has a lower gorge that I much prefer, and a slightly lower buttoning point that I do not mind, I just find the look to feel off. In my opinion "2.5" button jackets look kind of faux with the buttoning point lower and the third buttonhole being at this limbo height where it is neither low, medium or high - it just sits there.

The greatest design weakness of Suitsupply's jackets are their lapels that try way too hard to be Italian, but come off as parodies. I only like the standard step collar and the wide pointed lapel, though I would prefer a slightly narrower pointed lapel, but they do not have one. The standard width pointed lapel just looks cartoonishly "rakish" to me as the points are just too extended. One could say pretty much the same thing about the wide pointed lapel, but it compliments my physique well - I have reserved it for formal suits only and for narrower pointed lapel suits I look elsewhere. Combine the issues with lapels with the "2.5" buttoning that I do not like and we have got a jacket just does not look good to my eyes.

However, do not let my biased disdain affect you. I simply am somewhat personally tilted and pedantic when it comes to lapels and buttoning points. If you like the look and it fits you, then go right ahead! The "2.5" button design that Suitsupply has, should work best with the standard width step collar that you have chosen, so it should turn out just fine!
 

Baked Potato

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No problem!

Even though it has a lower gorge that I much prefer, and a slightly lower buttoning point that I do not mind, I just find the look to feel off. In my opinion "2.5" button jackets look kind of faux with the buttoning point lower and the third buttonhole being at this limbo height where it is neither low, medium or high - it just sits there.

The greatest design weakness of Suitsupply's jackets are their lapels that try way too hard to be Italian, but come off as parodies. I only like the standard step collar and the wide pointed lapel, though I would prefer a slightly narrower pointed lapel, but they do not have one. The standard width pointed lapel just looks cartoonishly "rakish" to me as the points are just too extended. One could say pretty much the same thing about the wide pointed lapel, but it compliments my physique well - I have reserved it for formal suits only and for narrower pointed lapel suits I look elsewhere. Combine the issues with lapels with the "2.5" buttoning that I do not like and we have got a jacket just does not look good to my eyes.

However, do not let my biased disdain affect you. I simply am somewhat personally tilted and pedantic when it comes to lapels and buttoning points. If you like the look and it fits you, then go right ahead! The "2.5" button design that Suitsupply has, should work best with the standard width step collar that you have chosen, so it should turn out just fine!
So if I understood you correctly, you generally dislike 2.5 buttons and not just Suitsupply's offering? I first thought that you didn't like SS' 2.5 buttioning becuase something was wrong with it. :)

I'd love slightly wider lapels than their standard offering, but I find the "wide" lapel option too wide. I'd prefer an alternative between "standard" and "wide".
 

Jazzthief

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So if I understood you correctly, you generally dislike 2.5 buttons and not just Suitsupply's offering? I first thought that you didn't like SS' 2.5 buttioning becuase something was wrong with it. :)

I'd love slightly wider lapels than their standard offering, but I find the "wide" lapel option too wide. I'd prefer an alternative between "standard" and "wide".
I do like 2.5 buttons immensely! If done right it just looks so cool and "vintage", but still modernly elegant - never dated like the hideous three-button suits from the 1990s. Mark Cho from The Armoury regularly wears these pieces and they look absolutely fantastic. The buttoning point just has to be higher for it to work. If done wrong though then it comes off as a fashion piece. I do find that Suitsupply falls in the latter category, but that is just my opinion as tastes differ.

It is a common gripe if I understand correctly, that a lot of people would like something indermediate between their current standard and wide width, but there is not much to be done about it as Suitsupply really does not engage with their customers about what they would like to see. I do not like the wide step collar they have and prefer the standard, it is the opposite with pointed lapels: cannot stand the standard, but can live with the wide width.
 

nevaeh

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Three piece Lazio.

image
Spot on, as always. One of these days you need to photograph your full (impressive) wardrobe. I feel that you have a suit for each day of the month!
 

LookOutSpices

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Thinking of doing an MTM Havana SC in this E Thomas brown wool/silk/linen fabric, anyone have experience with it or some real life pics? Appreciate it!

 

Noblekostas

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Thinking of doing an MTM Havana SC in this E Thomas brown wool/silk/linen fabric, anyone have experience with it or some real life pics? Appreciate it!

Not exactly same color, but here is the same fabric and mill. One of my favorites. Last year picIG.jpg
 

Baked Potato

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I do like 2.5 buttons immensely! If done right it just looks so cool and "vintage", but still modernly elegant - never dated like the hideous three-button suits from the 1990s. Mark Cho from The Armoury regularly wears these pieces and they look absolutely fantastic. The buttoning point just has to be higher for it to work. If done wrong though then it comes off as a fashion piece. I do find that Suitsupply falls in the latter category, but that is just my opinion as tastes differ.

It is a common gripe if I understand correctly, that a lot of people would like something indermediate between their current standard and wide width, but there is not much to be done about it as Suitsupply really does not engage with their customers about what they would like to see. I do not like the wide step collar they have and prefer the standard, it is the opposite with pointed lapels: cannot stand the standard, but can live with the wide width.
One last question regarding my proposed set-up above. Would round patch pockets be considered to casual? I don't even know if it's even noticable to most people, but just wondering what you guys think.
 

Jazzthief

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One last question regarding my proposed set-up above. Would round patch pockets be considered to casual? I don't even know if it's even noticable to most people, but just wondering what you guys think.
There is not much difference in this regard as patch pockets are already casual - that can nevertheless be combined with more formal garments depending on the fabric and other details. The regular patch pockets are more associated with British tailoring and the round "cognac glass" pockets with Italian tailoring - they are the same level of formality. Patch pockets are very suitable for sportcoats.
 

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