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lexxdeleon

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One more question on custom vs MTM...when looking online it seems like there are 90+ fabrics for custom vs 3,000+ for MTM. Are there really that many more fabrics that are only available if you go MTM? For suits, I’m not looking for anything crazy, just a pretty standard Navy and grey with some texture (maybe a Birdseye as opposed to a standard S120s worsted wool).

It also seems like there aren’t as many available options for custom when looking on the SuSu website as have been discussed here (jacket length, etc.). So I’m guessing I just need to go to the store and ask about additional options in person?
Yes, there are really that many more fabrics available in MTM! For most gentlemen the custom made program has something that will be close to what they are looking for as far as classic suiting goes, especially since they started offering the Sienna cut and super 150's.

You need to go in-store and get fitted by an associate to get access to additional fitting adjustments, you cannot make sizing adjustments in custom made on the website.

Now if you're looking for something very specific you'll probably have to go MTM. There are the entry level price "house" fabrics which are all Vitale Barberis Canonico and similar to the custom made fabrics. Where it differs significantly is the cut length fabrics, you can browse the majority of them here actually: http://www.aristonfabrics.com/ . In addition to the Ariston fabrics, Susu MTM offers Solbiati. Some select stores (NY Soho, NY Madison, Chicago mainly) offer Drapers, Holland & Sherry, Huddersfield and Dugdale.

So I apologize if this has been covered recently, but after visiting my local Suitsupply and checking out their new spring line, I was really shocked with how jacket measurements have drastically changed in the Havana.

I've been a 40R Havana for years and a 40R Contemporary in Spier & Mackay (identical specs to the Havana in terms of shoulder, chest, and sleeve circumference), and talked with a store rep as well as the in-house tailor in terms of fit since I've had to had the back of the jackets let out a bit thanks to 6 day-a-week gym sessions the past year. For shits and giggles I tried a 42R in both companies and while the shoulder and back felt great, the chest was WAY too big to fix and I looked like a kid wearing dad's suit.

To my surprise, the 40R Havana for this season was TINY! Felt like a 38R, and it was confirmed by the tailor that SuSu has been tweaking their overall measurements based on the data they've received from in-store alterations. I tried on a 42R, and it was hands down the most comfortable jacket fit yet; shoulder seams fell right at the end of my shoulder bone, the back felt comfortable when reaching forward, and the chest wasn't a roomy oasis like previous years.

I definitely advise ANYONE who's interested in the Spring Line to try on the new suits/blazers in person before pulling the trigger on an online order, because the sizes have absolutely changed. For reference, I tried the Green Herringbone, Blue Silk/Linen/Wool and a cream-colored Havana.
The core line of Havana jackets should still be the same, I'm mainly referring to the all-season suiting and sport coats. The seasonal stuff and Havana variations (Havana wide, Havana pleated, deconstructed, etc.) you'll definitely want to try on as it's not super consistent. They aren't all just slimmer either, I went down a size in the Havana wide for example.
 

BlairW

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Anyone got either of these two ties? Trying to gauge the thickness...

upload_2019-3-7_9-45-42.png
 

chocsosa

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So I apologize if this has been covered recently, but after visiting my local Suitsupply and checking out their new spring line, I was really shocked with how jacket measurements have drastically changed in the Havana.

I've been a 40R Havana for years and a 40R Contemporary in Spier & Mackay (identical specs to the Havana in terms of shoulder, chest, and sleeve circumference), and talked with a store rep as well as the in-house tailor in terms of fit since I've had to had the back of the jackets let out a bit thanks to 6 day-a-week gym sessions the past year. For shits and giggles I tried a 42R in both companies and while the shoulder and back felt great, the chest was WAY too big to fix and I looked like a kid wearing dad's suit.

To my surprise, the 40R Havana for this season was TINY! Felt like a 38R, and it was confirmed by the tailor that SuSu has been tweaking their overall measurements based on the data they've received from in-store alterations. I tried on a 42R, and it was hands down the most comfortable jacket fit yet; shoulder seams fell right at the end of my shoulder bone, the back felt comfortable when reaching forward, and the chest wasn't a roomy oasis like previous years.

I definitely advise ANYONE who's interested in the Spring Line to try on the new suits/blazers in person before pulling the trigger on an online order, because the sizes have absolutely changed. For reference, I tried the Green Herringbone, Blue Silk/Linen/Wool and a cream-colored Havana.
I can def concur this experience.. I walked in to the DC Store last week just checking stuff out.. Im usually a 44L in most of their stuff and a 46L in their slimmer stuff(Washington) but I had to go up to a 46L on a three piece Lazio that I ended up purchasing..the sleeves were also comically short which has never been the case..I was kind of shocked that things have drastically changed measurement wise since the purchase of my last suit from them in 2015..
 

Michael81

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Likewise. The last time I bought a 38L Lazio was a few years ago but I remember it being a very full cut. I used it as a reference for my custom suits and it was significantly slimmer. I even had to let out the sides.
 

BlairW

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As usual their sizing inconsistencies are the worst part of their business. It seems they have a big following but the underlying issue is the sizing and the changes to commonly understood fits and sizes
 

lexxdeleon

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@lexxdeleon Is it possible to change Gorge Height in MTM?
Unfortunately, no go on changing gorge height. Only changing width, from standard to wide and style selection of notch, peak and shawl.

It is not. I wanted to lower the gorge too.
Yeah, I really wish we could do that. They do work on adding additionally customizable features and that's one I really hope they look to add.
 

masernaut

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As usual their sizing inconsistencies are the worst part of their business. It seems they have a big following but the underlying issue is the sizing and the changes to commonly understood fits and sizes
I concur. My London suit from 2013 is a 38R - still fits me today. Whereas the 38R double-breasted suits I purchased a few years later don't fit at all. I was recently sized at the local SuSu store as 42R - so I purchased a 42R Havana jacket (and the fit is different than what I tried on in-store) and I'm confident I can go up to 44R for a better fit.
 

Contango

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@lexxdeleon can somebody like me, who has no Susu in their country order MTM? Like if I was to say I want Jort button stance on Lazio fit as the only change - can that be accomodated online??
Just hop on a short flight to Sydney, order a suit and sample the civilisation for a day ;)
 

pomor

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I’ll wear socks
I just now noticed you’re in Tauranga — had a friend online in that city I Skyped with a while back. The climate seems a lot more humid than the rest of the country. Can you wear traditional overcoats in the “dead” of winter? (July?) or would they be too warm? The thinner overcoats SS has tradionally offered for spring/summer (not this year though) would probably be ideal
 

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