• STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Beatlegeuse

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
5,198
Reaction score
1,383
@Beatlegeuse keep in mind with Custom the button stance will only be lowered relative to the fit you choose. So if you lengthen the jacket by an inch, you'll get the button stance of the equivalent length in the regular sizes. For me it's a 52L equivalent. Lower than what I'd get with a 48L but not as low as I'd like. This is one of the limitations of custom made.
Thanks for the info. That might work out ok for me, if I’m able to lengthen the jacket and have the button stance naturally drop down in line with the rest of the fit. This isn’t the best picture and doesn’t really give a great representation of the actual fit, but this is my Navy linen Havana in 44L. You can see the second button is right at my belt. Ideally I’d like to make the jacket a little longer and drop that buttoning point so the top button is slight above the belt at my natural wait and the bottom button is below my belt line.

84144F59-D93B-4711-9CF9-70E181953C54.jpeg
 

lexxdeleon

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
215
Reaction score
194
That's not bad apart from the divots on the left shoulder. I guess it's the luck of the draw. Personally I don't think it's worth the premium over Custom Made.

Here is my MTM suit. This is after 3 full remakes and 6 months of back and forth.

Sleeve pitch completely off. The body is pretty clean though:
View attachment 1138299

All kinds of excess fabric on the trousers:
View attachment 1138304

Winter weight fabric and standard shoulders, so nothing fancy. I'm interested to see your trousers @lexxdeleon.
Wow 3 remakes! That trouser...I'll take and post some photos of mine.

For you, who already fits OTR pretty well, definitely not worth it. Really depends on the body type, posture and how much customization you want.

Thanks for the info! I didn't realize that lengthening the jacket and lowering the buttoning point were available as options in the custom made offering, I thought I had to go full MTM to get that. But if that is an option, I should probably start with my 44L Havana jackets and go from there. I'd probably need about an extra inch on the length and I'd need to lower the buttoning point by about an inch or so as well.

For the trousers, I've never owned a pair from SuSu, but I tried some on a long time age and I just remember sizing way up to get the legs to fit, and I would have needed to take the waist in considerably, but I don't know how that would have looked after all the tailoring. I will stop by the store this weekend to check it out and take a look at my options. Thanks!
Lengthening the jacket is available (only in-store with an associate), however, you don't get to choose where exactly the button is located. It's moved lower proportionally to how much the jacket is lengthened. In your case, the button stance would still be 0.5 inches higher than you would like.
 

KWang94

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Messages
264
Reaction score
184
Disclaimer: I'm a MTM specialist for Susu.

Honestly, it sounds like you'd be fine with going the design your own custom made program from Susu. So long as the button position doesn't need to move higher or significantly lower on the jacket. Getting the trouser to fit in the thighs is easy, for the hips it kind of depends. But if you're close OTR, you should be fine given you get are fitted by a competent associate.

I don't think I've seen a lot of MTM results posted in this thread so here's what one my of jackets look like. I can take some trouser fit pics too if anyone is interest in seeing a higher rise trouser.







There are so many variables contributing to the result of MTM garments. The experience of who is doing the fitting is definitely a big one, but then there's also fabric choice/weight, shoulder type chosen and the list goes on.



Sorry to hear your experience wasn't a good one. But Susu MTM can definitely make proper high rise trousers, that's all I make for myself.
Was sure I recognized these pictures. They're from the SxS group on FB, right? It looks amazing!!
 

BlairW

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
377
Reaction score
1,634
@lexxdeleon can somebody like me, who has no Susu in their country order MTM? Like if I was to say I want Jort button stance on Lazio fit as the only change - can that be accomodated online??
 

lexxdeleon

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
215
Reaction score
194
Was sure I recognized these pictures. They're from the SxS group on FB, right? It looks amazing!!
Yessir, thanks!

@lexxdeleon can somebody like me, who has no Susu in their country order MTM? Like if I was to say I want Jort button stance on Lazio fit as the only change - can that be accomodated online??
Sorry Blair, made-to-measure can only be purchased in-store where MTM is available. The pattern isn't based off of any OTR/RTW Susu patterns, MTM uses a fit series exclusive to the program. Also, for the best results, it is far better to get measured in person. Same goes for choosing the fabrics too.
 

Beatlegeuse

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
5,198
Reaction score
1,383
One more question on custom vs MTM...when looking online it seems like there are 90+ fabrics for custom vs 3,000+ for MTM. Are there really that many more fabrics that are only available if you go MTM? For suits, I’m not looking for anything crazy, just a pretty standard Navy and grey with some texture (maybe a Birdseye as opposed to a standard S120s worsted wool).

It also seems like there aren’t as many available options for custom when looking on the SuSu website as have been discussed here (jacket length, etc.). So I’m guessing I just need to go to the store and ask about additional options in person?
 

Michael81

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
1,061
Reaction score
2,821
The selection is pretty good. Most of the fabric from the regular lines is available in Custom Made. The fabric of my grey and brown suits were selected from existing options in the line-up. The other fabrics are pretty good too; in some aspects better than what is available for MTM. The fabric for my grey custom suit is much nicer than the MTM equivalent. My navy custom suit is a pretty nice birdseye, if that's what you're looking for. I'm considering getting a DB jacket made in the same fabric.

3180271.jpg

In case this hasn't been made clear: it is essential be fitted in-store. They will make all the necessary adjustments. You can even do things like widening the foot opening, it's very flexible. The suit will arrive fully tailored direct from the factory. For some reason they don't publicise this service, but they should - it's very good. Out of three suits only one required additional alterations (the trouser waist had to be taken in).
 
Last edited:

AGlorifiedCrew

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2018
Messages
101
Reaction score
856
So I apologize if this has been covered recently, but after visiting my local Suitsupply and checking out their new spring line, I was really shocked with how jacket measurements have drastically changed in the Havana.

I've been a 40R Havana for years and a 40R Contemporary in Spier & Mackay (identical specs to the Havana in terms of shoulder, chest, and sleeve circumference), and talked with a store rep as well as the in-house tailor in terms of fit since I've had to had the back of the jackets let out a bit thanks to 6 day-a-week gym sessions the past year. For shits and giggles I tried a 42R in both companies and while the shoulder and back felt great, the chest was WAY too big to fix and I looked like a kid wearing dad's suit.

To my surprise, the 40R Havana for this season was TINY! Felt like a 38R, and it was confirmed by the tailor that SuSu has been tweaking their overall measurements based on the data they've received from in-store alterations. I tried on a 42R, and it was hands down the most comfortable jacket fit yet; shoulder seams fell right at the end of my shoulder bone, the back felt comfortable when reaching forward, and the chest wasn't a roomy oasis like previous years.

I definitely advise ANYONE who's interested in the Spring Line to try on the new suits/blazers in person before pulling the trigger on an online order, because the sizes have absolutely changed. For reference, I tried the Green Herringbone, Blue Silk/Linen/Wool and a cream-colored Havana.
 

othertravel

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
7,648
Reaction score
1,879
So I apologize if this has been covered recently, but after visiting my local Suitsupply and checking out their new spring line, I was really shocked with how jacket measurements have drastically changed in the Havana.

I've been a 40R Havana for years and a 40R Contemporary in Spier & Mackay (identical specs to the Havana in terms of shoulder, chest, and sleeve circumference), and talked with a store rep as well as the in-house tailor in terms of fit since I've had to had the back of the jackets let out a bit thanks to 6 day-a-week gym sessions the past year. For shits and giggles I tried a 42R in both companies and while the shoulder and back felt great, the chest was WAY too big to fix and I looked like a kid wearing dad's suit.

To my surprise, the 40R Havana for this season was TINY! Felt like a 38R, and it was confirmed by the tailor that SuSu has been tweaking their overall measurements based on the data they've received from in-store alterations. I tried on a 42R, and it was hands down the most comfortable jacket fit yet; shoulder seams fell right at the end of my shoulder bone, the back felt comfortable when reaching forward, and the chest wasn't a roomy oasis like previous years.

I definitely advise ANYONE who's interested in the Spring Line to try on the new suits/blazers in person before pulling the trigger on an online order, because the sizes have absolutely changed. For reference, I tried the Green Herringbone, Blue Silk/Linen/Wool and a cream-colored Havana.
Six days a week??? Congrats!
 

saskatoonjay

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2016
Messages
1,053
Reaction score
1,089
So I apologize if this has been covered recently, but after visiting my local Suitsupply and checking out their new spring line, I was really shocked with how jacket measurements have drastically changed in the Havana.

I've been a 40R Havana for years and a 40R Contemporary in Spier & Mackay (identical specs to the Havana in terms of shoulder, chest, and sleeve circumference), and talked with a store rep as well as the in-house tailor in terms of fit since I've had to had the back of the jackets let out a bit thanks to 6 day-a-week gym sessions the past year. For shits and giggles I tried a 42R in both companies and while the shoulder and back felt great, the chest was WAY too big to fix and I looked like a kid wearing dad's suit.

To my surprise, the 40R Havana for this season was TINY! Felt like a 38R, and it was confirmed by the tailor that SuSu has been tweaking their overall measurements based on the data they've received from in-store alterations. I tried on a 42R, and it was hands down the most comfortable jacket fit yet; shoulder seams fell right at the end of my shoulder bone, the back felt comfortable when reaching forward, and the chest wasn't a roomy oasis like previous years.

I definitely advise ANYONE who's interested in the Spring Line to try on the new suits/blazers in person before pulling the trigger on an online order, because the sizes have absolutely changed. For reference, I tried the Green Herringbone, Blue Silk/Linen/Wool and a cream-colored Havana.
Thanks for that good information. My newest Havana 38R fits a little tight, and I wondered if I’d just put on weight, but my older Havana 38Rs still fit me comfortably.
 

Featured Sponsor

What's your favorite type of loafer?

  • Tassel loafers

  • Penny loafers

  • Horsebit loafers

  • Kiltie loafers

  • I hate loafers


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
420,634
Messages
9,036,248
Members
190,246
Latest member
thinkerbell120

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Top