Suits - The start of the road. Need some help.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by MattMo, Aug 7, 2012.

  1. MattMo

    MattMo Member

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    I've been reading posts up & down this forum about what makes a great suit. Material, cut, fabric, branding, tailoring, off the rack, custom made etc. I've also encountered places like Indochino, Thick as Thieves etc. Read about Brooks Brothers 1818 line, J. Crew Ludlow, Hugo Boss, RLPL, RLBL, Italian suit designers I can't spell off the top of my head, and more.

    Now, I need some help :)
    What I'm looking for is a good quality, navy blue suit. Half or full canvassed. 100% Wool or darn close to something that wont fall apart on me in the 100s range (I'll go up. Convince me to go down). Two buttons, breast pocket, at least two inner pockets, notch or peal lapels, tailor fitted (I'll likely bring it to a tailor myself but a slim profile makes it easier on the tailor), and a modern look. things I'm not too meticulous about: Working button cuffs and brand.

    What this suit is going to be used for is mainly for interviews but also weddings, dinner nights, etc. No need for a suit in dental school. But keep in mind, I am a student, which means I'm not willing to drop more than $600, if even $600. Maybe $250-$500.

    Anyways here are the posts I've read that have helped me in my formulation of my ideal suit (And hopefully you guys can help me even more)

    As of now, I'm looking at

    More specifically,

    Can someone help me make a more informed decision on buying a suit? I would rather not go to Macy's and buy a suit that will bubble or fall apart on me. Also, I'm wary of Nordstrom and their seemingly shoddy suits people look down upon. There's something about U.S. department store suits...

    Thanks for the help! It's greatly appreciated.

    Edit: Hopefully, this thread can also be a starting ground to anyone who's looking for their first suit in a world where it's becoming hard to find a durable, long-lasting, quality suit.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2012


  2. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

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    Unfortunately, at that budget I don't think you can get most of the suits discussed on here. I would get a pretty cheap suit (Ludlow) and spend your money on other articles of clothing (shoes).
     


  3. hohneokc

    hohneokc Senior member

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    I don't know if these are canvassed (I don't they are), but take a look at Paul Betenley. Modern cut, classic style, decent priced for the quality.

    I don't know that you can find a new canvassed suit at $600.

    Chris
     


  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    First is to learn how to meausre yourself

    Then look for Wizard of Ash, Kent Wang if you save up a but more

    Cloth wise, look for all wool worsted in 9-10oz, they perform very well, matt British mill finish, last very long, relatively low cost.
     


  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    If above is too much for you, try to go to major factory outlet to get a branded suit off the rack, at least they have decent fits and discounted price.

    I particularly like Ted baker suit in the lowest range because they have great style and fit, even button position is a little bit high
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2012


  6. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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  7. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    does no one search or go to the newbie section?

    i swear its useless
     


  8. MattMo

    MattMo Member

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    Hm, what's a good pricepoint for Hugo Boss if I'm on a budget?

    There were some I saw on sale for ~$260.

    Not worth it? Seems nicer than DKNY, Michael by Michael Kors, Lauren by RL, Alfani (hah) etc etc.

    I'm a 38R and slim - it's been quite difficult finding a suit that doesn't need a lot of tailoring.

    EDIT:
    Here's the suit
    http://store-us.hugoboss.com/mens-s...en_US,pd.html?cgid=21100#!color=021_Dark-Grey

    I know its a blend but is viscose really that bad? Like compared to this?
    http://store-us.hugoboss.com/mens-s...dwvar_hbna50180904_color=001_Black&cgid=21100

    I dont know much about fabric but I have a couple $90 100% wool suits - does the boss viscose/wool fall short of those?
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2012


  9. TheStormnMormon

    TheStormnMormon Well-Known Member

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    Here's my .02 -

    Nordstrom Rack, Saks Off Fifth, Neiman Marcus Last Call.

    You can get killer deals and cheap tailoring if you're in the right store at the right time - case and point, my go-to Burberry (she's pictured in my avatar):

    Italian-made, 100% Virgin Wool, navy, two button, side vent, lined trou, $1,995.00 retail. Happened to be in a Rack when I was looking for something cheaper to pick up, ended up grabbing her up. The tailor - 12 years of experience, older Polish woman, took some measurements and told me to be back in a week.

    One week later, I have a $2,015 suit that fit me perfectly awaiting pickup. I've taken great care of her and she's - the suit, not the tailor - taken great care of me for the better part of a year.

    Oh, did I mention that I snagged her for $200 before tailoring? The jacket was brought in, sleeves taken up, pants hemmed, waist brought in about an inch - all that for $20.

    Now, that's not an anomaly, one time deal - I've seen men walk out of the Rack with $2,900 Ermenegildo Zegna suits for a price of roughly $600, and on occasion for as little as $350 for final markdown; Versace Collection from $350-$599; Canali for - seldom - $200, to a more average $899.

    Let's head over to Saks Off Fifth, shall we?

    One of my favorite places to get shirts, shoes, ties, trou - you name it. Most recent find? I may just take a pic or two to show the wonderful look they have (and show off, just a bit [​IMG],) pair of Versace Collection pants. $250 retail, picked for $45.

    Now, I cannot speak for Last Call, as I have not had the chance to stop by one - it stands to reason that deals just like this are there IF YOU LOOK hard.

    Yeah, you might not get the "Steal of the Century," but you can get darn good stuff at a cheap price!

    If you're lucky enough to live by a location with a high-end consignment store, stop on in! I've seen, and let slip, one too many (three, to be exact) Ermenegildo Zegna 15 mil suits for about $250 a pop, Isaia (two) for $190, and a stunning red/white chalk stripe for $350.

    You just have to look; however, if you are in a rush... try a Marshall's or TJ Maxx. I've found killer deals for friends of mine on nice, decent quality suits.

    Best of luck!
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2012


  10. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    meh, burberry suits are nothing special, and stop talking about it like its a woman...she this and that. its creepy
     


  11. wumingde

    wumingde Well-Known Member

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    You can try eHaberdasher's Benjamin suits, which are full-canvassed at $495. From what others are saying about the Benjamin collection, they seem pretty decent quality for that price range. The suits are supposedly slim fit as well.
     


  12. MattMo

    MattMo Member

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    Thanks for the advice.

    So I should just return that Boss suit?
     


  13. MattMo

    MattMo Member

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    Question:

    Which suit to keep/buy?

    1. http://store-us.hugoboss.com/mens-s...en_US,pd.html?cgid=21100#!color=021_Dark-Grey
    Caveat: 55% Virgin Wool/42% Viscose IE Wool blend suit? (Is this a caveat?)
    Price paid with tax: $277 - No alterations done yet. Estimated final price: $320

    2. Indochino MTM Suit
    Pro: 100% wool, Alteration credit
    Con: Takes awhile, Learning curve

    Anything I'm missing here? Is that Boss suit really that bad even if it's a wool blend?

    My budget is under $350 including alterations so no canvassed suits for me (yet). Trying to get the best option for my money.

    Thanks!
     


  14. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    42% viscose (or over about 10% viscose) is unacceptable for situations such as standard interviews.

    MTM for a beginner with limited funds almost definitely won't turn out well.
     


  15. cosmic

    cosmic Well-Known Member

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    Avoid peak lapels (disqualifies it as a conservative interview suit), get twin vents, and avoid working cuffs unless the length is ideal (they are difficult to alter sleeve length on). Ignore brand. Try on a few dozen RTW, and pick the one that fits best. Read a book on how to judge fit and memorise this (or bring notes with you to the stores) e.g. Flusser's "Style and the Man" discusses this in the first few chapters. Concentrate on shoulders (should be straight, no big divots or lumps), length (must cover your behind, but not go much lower than that), and button position (around the belly button or a tad lower), these are hardest to alter. Waist/back can be tightened easily so don't worry about slim fit too much. Use the best alteration tailor you can find.

    If you have the time and money, get 1-2 white MTM dress shirts for interviews. The improved fit and quality will make a noticeable difference to your look and comfort, for relatively little outlay. If you buy RTW shirts instead, start by getting your chest, neck, and sleeve length measured (but don't take this as gospel - sales staff are often clueless at this). Then, ask for sample shirts in your neck size and 3 different sleeve sizes near your measurements, try on as many fits (e.g. regular, slim, tailored) as they have, and see which fits best. Your sleeve should come down to the base of your thumb or a bit beyond, it's always better to have it a bit long then a bit short (too long can be shortened; but not vice versa) . Then get only one shirt from your chosen brand, make sure the sleeve length is a bit long (showing 1-1.5" of cuff beyond your jacket sleeves), then take it home and wash it 2-3 times so it finishes shrinking. Then try it on, if the sleeve is still too long, go back and get it shortened.

    Once you have found a brand that fits best (or gone MTM, which is a lot better and easier/less hassle IMO), you can build up your shirt collection. Just remember for interviews you only really need 2 shirts. I'd rather get 2 quality MTM shirts that fit well, than 5 RTW shirts that don't.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2012


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