Suits That Fit

[otisthecat]

After lurking for far too long, I've decided to join this group of obsessives. Reviewing past posts has told me that nearly everyone scorns Hugo Boss suits, but they are the only ones I've found that fit off the rack. I wear a 48R, with a thick chest, big shoulders, etc. (I used to be a weightlifter). Most jackets fit terribly, other than Boss. My waist is 38, so the drop is a pain. I would do MTM if there were somewhere close I could have it done. I have one Armani suit that fits well (at least the jacket does), but I can't find Armani at cheap prices as often. Plus you people disparage Armani as well.

Short of flying to New York or London, what are my options? At this point fit is more important than construction (within reason). Any advice?

David

 

[johnnynorman3]

Brooks Bros. Golden Fleece (USA made) has wider shoulders and a fuller chest. You'd have to get the waist suppressed, but it is at least good in the shoulders for you. You could actually probably go down to a 46 or 47 in that suit (I find they run at least 1 size big), which will make the drop situation a little less severe. Find them on sale for $698 at least two months out of the year.

You could also go Brooks Bros. MTM -- pretty good price for those.

The prices for these suits will not be too much higher than an OTR Boss suit.

 

[regularjoe]

By all means, try other suits, but if you feel Hugo Boss is what fits you the best, stick with it. I would just encourage you to at least wait for a sale or find a Boss outlet so you're not paying full retail. The latter is probably more important than finding a full canvas suit OTR that fits IMHO.

 

[otisthecat]

Thanks for your advice.

 

[Matt]

Visit a couple of tailors in your town, theyre there somewhere...have a look at what theyve done before, what working on now, get yourself properly measured.

i tend to prefer the little old guys who have been wearing the same comfy shoes standing at the same old table for 30 years in a messy workroom to the nicer looking boutique tailors, but thats just me.

Anyhow...for anyone with odd fittings, its really the best way to go. Depending on the fabrics you choose, you can probably get away for not much more than an OTR Boss and almost certainly less than a retail Armani...especially if you need to heavily alter to get pants that fit.

 

[Brian SD]

If Boss and Armani fit you well, by all means, please do buy Boss and Armani. The tastes of a few elitists on the board do not necessarily reflect an objective quality standpoint concerning all suits. There is probably one out of 1000 people you come across that would care if your suit is fused or the quality is perfect. If you want to check out other options, do. However, please don't let the over-developed taste of the members here at SF deter you from buying suits that you recognize you look good in. You also have to recognize that there is a huge difference in appeal between an Armani or Boss suit and a Brooks Brothers suit. The BB will be much more conservative (boring, by my standards) look, even though the construction will be superior. If you seek a really high end suit with a bigger drop, I believe Attolini may provide you with what you want.

 

[Manton]

Pace Brian SD, I don't believe there are any "elitists" on this board. Â Some of us may indeed have "overdeveloped tastes" but that is ... ahem ... a matter of taste. The fact that people here tend to talk a lot about top-end clothes does not mean that they (we) disdain anyone who wears anything less. Â Check out a wine board and I'll bet there will be a lot of threads about first growth Bordeaux and Romanee Conti. Â That doesn't mean posters drink the stuff every night, or that no one likes anything else. Â We talk about the top brands here because they are in many respects the finest examples of the subject matter at hand. Â Perfectly natural. Â Also, people ask questions, and those with experience respond. Â Knowledge is good. Occasionally (very occasionally) a true clothing snob -- by which I mean someone who actually judges others by how much they spend on clothes -- shows up, and he is instantly and almost universally derided. So, otisthecat, don't worry about it, enjoy your Boss, and happy posting.

 

[johnapril]

For sure, with Boss and Armani being so readily available on ebay and the like, you don't have to try too hard NOT to pay retail.  Happy shopping.

 

[Brian SD]

Pace Brian SD, I don't believe there are any "elitists" on this board. Some of us may indeed have "overdeveloped tastes" but that is ... ahem ... a matter of taste. The fact that people here tend to talk a lot about top-end clothes does not mean that they (we) disdain anyone who wears anything less. Check out a wine board and I'll bet there will be a lot of threads about first growth Bordeaux and Romanee Conti. That doesn't mean posters drink the stuff every night, or that no one likes anything else. We talk about the top brands here because they are in many respects the finest examples of the subject matter at hand. Perfectly natural. Also, people ask questions, and those with experience respond. Knowledge is good. Occasionally (very occasionally) a true clothing snob -- by which I mean someone who actually judges others by how much they spend on clothes -- shows up, and he is instantly and almost universally derided. So, otisthecat, don't worry about it, enjoy your Boss, and happy posting.

Sarcasm my dear Manton. I said "elitist" because I thought most members would laugh at that suggestion. And my point was precisely that over-developed tastes are a matter of taste. Past posts give the notion that we at the forum do scorn wearers of Boss, when we in fact do not. I cannot think of a single thread I've come across where a Boss or Armani wearer mentioned their preferred brands and were not responded to with a suggestion to drop the designers and start wearing Canali.

 

[LA Guy]

Wear Boss and Armani (I imagine that the Collezione line fits you best) if they fit you. Don't try to squeeze yourself into a Helmut Lang, and for heaven's sake, don't try to accomodate an Attolini (these are quite fitted in the shoulders and arms, in my experience, and I would not describe my physique and Ahnold-like.)

If you are looking for a better constructed suit that may be available at discount *and* fit your body type, I might try a Canali, a Zegna, or a Vestimenta suit, the former two of which can accomodate squared shoulders and broader chests and torsos better than many other Italian branded suits, the latter which has a relaxed, natural shoulder than may soften broad shoulders (Lots of sportscasters ought to look into that.)

 

[benchan]

Actually Canali is quite tight in my opinion even for a drop 8 model. I personally suggest you give Pal Zileri(white label) a try.

Speaking of Hugo Boss, I find the Baldassari line to be decent in quality also

 

[topcatny]

I have to say, I enjoyed reading everyones comments to otisthecat about wearing Hugo Boss and Armani. Mostly because i fall into the same situation he is in. (48L jacket and 35-36 waist). Hugo Boss is one of the few jackets that seems to fit me fairly well off the rack, (the pants are another thing entirely). I actually wear a 46L in Hugo Boss which makes altering the pants a little easier.

Zegna and Canali also tend to fit me a little better. They seem to be cut a little fuller through the chest and particularly through the shoulders and arms. So those are 2 good options to consider as well (as was mentioned previously). Most other high end suits I can barely get on my shoulders let alone button the jacket

That being said I tried on an Isaia sportcoat last week in a 58L or 60L (euro sizing) I can't remember which, I was trying a bunch of things on that day in all different sizes. Much to my surprise it seemed to fit fairly well, (I expected it to feel like Chris Farley in Tommy Boy.... "Fat guy in a little coat&quot It was a tad tighter under the arms than my other jackets, not tight like it was cutting off circulation which I have felt before, but like the armhole was designed to sit higher, which was the intention.

So all that being said if you want to be safe I think the Zegna and Canali are 2 good options and if you happen to find yourself someplace where you can try on some of the other brands, do so, you might be surprised what actually fits.

 

[otisthecat]

Wow. I come back the next day and I have so much more information. You people are damn helpful. I don't mind elitist comments, as I have been accused of making a few (generally regarding food). If I had the money, I would get my suits made for me. I don't have the money, so I get what I can. I like the way Boss fits, and I can get it off the rack, but I didn't want that to be my only option. As for tailors, this area is conservative and the tailors tend to be guys who can't fathom why I wouldn't prefer a center vent jacket. But I've found a nice woman who can do most alterations and do them well. So I'll keep buying Boss online and try on Zegna, etc. when I get to a Saks store. If it works, I'll find one online.

Thanks so much for the feedback.

 

[johnnynorman3]

Otis, I will second the Zegna recommendation -- the ones from Saks at least. The Saks Zegnas -- and even the ones in the Boston Zegna boutique for that matter -- seem to be cut a bit big in both the shoulders and the chest. While I can wear a size 40 in about 65% of off the rack suits (I have to go down for the other 35%), the Zegnas are simply too big in 40 -- mainly across the shoulders. So, those might be a good option. If you are near a Zegna boutique, I believe they are running a 60% sale (no returns though), and of course Saks has a lot of Zegnas in larger sizes on the clearance racks. I think a lot of them were under $750 at the Boston Saks.