Suits: options when off the rack won't fit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by art-b, Feb 17, 2013.

  1. art-b

    art-b Member

    Messages:
    8
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2010
    Dear Styleforum,

    I'm looking to buy a well fitting suit.

    The challenge is my build. I'm fairly slender at 5'11" / 180 cm and 141 pounds / 64 kg. My shoulders are narrow compared to my chest and waist. Even when I find a jacket that fits ok from soulders I've never found a perfect fit round my neck - there is always too much of a collar gap for my liking. My trouser waist is around 29 inches. I'm in my early thirties and I've had the same build for about 10 years now, which makes me confident that it will stay as it is. Usually a 36R is ok from the shoulders, too tight around the chest and waist and much too short from the sleeves and over all.

    I don't wear a suit regularly, maybe a few times a year to a wedding, a concert or some other random event. This is why I would like to suit to be very versitile. It would be great if I could use the jacket on it's own. I don't have a fixed budget, but I'm not wealthy enough to justify traveling to Napoli or Australia to get a suit made.

    Stylewise I think I subscribe to the "styleforum" norm. I would like a classic fitting suit that covers my rear, doesn't have narrow lapels, has soft shoulders etc. I'm of course ready to consider differing from the norm if it makes sense for my build. For reference here is a suit I think fits it's bearer well: http://artturib.tumblr.com/post/7451308133 I recognize that his build is totally different from mine.

    I currently live in New York. I would consider anything from buying an used suit to off the rack with alterations to made to measure (online or live).

    Thanks for your time and advice,

    Artturi
     


  2. GBR

    GBR Senior member

    Messages:
    7,946
    Likes Received:
    588
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    MTM is probably the better option if you cannot get RTW garments adapted to fit adequately and given that you do not have means or need for bespoke suits.

    If you search you will find interminable threads about MTM - however do not be tempted to do so on line even to save a few pennies. Such things do not often work well and you are a new to all this. Bricks and mortar shops will serve you well.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2013


  3. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

    Messages:
    1,001
    Likes Received:
    222
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Location:
    Munich, Germany
    MTM or bespoke. And please do not measure yourself for online MTM in the hope that some guy thousands of kilometers away will interpret these numbers in the right way --- he / she almost certainly will not. Do some research here or on local forums about tailors or MTM shops close to where you live. Then visit potential places, let them explain their offerings and get it done where you feel comfortable.

    By the way and not important: Interesting that you consider Naples and Australia as THE places to get suits. Naples I understand, but Australia???
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2013


  4. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,345
    Likes Received:
    319
    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    I've never been, but NY people swear by Mr. Ned. I've been impressed by the photos.

    AlexE - my guess is that the OP is reading WAYWN often...there have been many Australian bespoke posts over the last 5-6 pages.
     


  5. Wade

    Wade Senior member

    Messages:
    815
    Likes Received:
    171
    Joined:
    May 15, 2012
    Andrew Lock is in NY and has MTM which you should look into.

    Kent Wang is also coming to NYC March 1st i believe
     


  6. art-b

    art-b Member

    Messages:
    8
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2010
    Thanks to everyone for advice. I'll look into Andrew Lock and Kent Wang as my main alternatives. Just by quickly glancing it seems that the Kent Wang' process assumes a bit more knowledge from the part of the buyer than I might be able to provide.

    best,

    Artturi
     


  7. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

    Messages:
    2,952
    Likes Received:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2009
    Honestly while it seems you've given some info it doesn't really tell much. What brands have you tried?

    Even with MTM you're going to be safer with a brand that starts out narrow shouldered then one that's broader .
     


  8. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

    Messages:
    2,467
    Likes Received:
    638
    Joined:
    May 31, 2009
    Location:
    Frankfurt, Germany


  9. art-b

    art-b Member

    Messages:
    8
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2010
    Nicola: Thanks for your reply, the advice sounds very reasonable. I haven't tried any MTM services yet. Would you have any recommendations as to which of the ones that operate in NY start with a narrow shoulder? I've been skimming the discussions of NY MTM's and haven't seen shoulder width being discussed.

    From the same discussions I've gathered that Mr. Ned, LS Mens Clothes, Andrew Lock and Kent Wang would have a good balance for me between price and quality.

    best,

    Artturi
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2013


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by