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Suits in Vietnam...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by vinhle37, Dec 23, 2006.

  1. Alfa

    Alfa Senior member

    Messages:
    152
    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2006
    Location:
    Kuala Lumpur
    Honestly, I wouldn't buy a 1-fitting MTM suit from any tailor anymore regardless of where they are located. I have tried it now a few times and I think the expectation that the measurement numbers alone will result in something good was naive and unrealistic on on my part. I have learned the hard way that just because a tailor can do fully-canvased, functional cuffs, pick-stitching and side tabs on trousers does not say anything about how the suit is going to fit. Find a tailor more local to you and have something made up with multiple fittings that you can comment and fix each time.

    This isn't to disparage Dzung by any means as I found no fault with the craftsmanship for the price. My comment was more to the fact that many people, myself included, have unrealistic expectations of these tailors to produce something which they may see in a magazine or on this forum with a single fitting. I do think the house style of Dzung is the "politician" look so in order to combat that would take a few fittings to iron that out. I am not sure if high-armholes can still be done though after the first fitting as the hole has already been patterned and cut by the time of the fitting unless you get to try on a basted muslin version.

    I have been required to travel to Hanoi a bit lately for work. I may try and find someone there that is willing to work with me through multiple fittings to have a suit made. This time I will keep the suit simple, but focus on fit as this is more important than anything else.
     
  2. il_colonnello

    il_colonnello Senior member

    Messages:
    557
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2009
    Alfa - Sorry to hear your Dũng experience was disappointing.

    I'd like to stress that despite the shortcomings in my Dũng suit as pointed out in the other thread, it still fits me much better than any off-the-rack suit I've ever had. Like you Selvaggio I am a classic case for custom-made clothes; even German size-94 suits, supposedly one of the better OTR choices for tall and thin men, don't fit me nearly as well as the result from Dũng. Add to that that I only paid about 120 euros for Dũng (with inexpensive cloth obviously but that's your own choice) whereas even the absolute cheapest OTR suits start from say 200 - 250 euros. Really, there is no comparison.

    I'd also like to point out that what the good Saigon tailors do is not MTM. MTM to my understanding means making basic adjustments to a factory pattern such as sleeve length, chest, etc and then sending those adjusted measurements to the factory for execution. From what I could tell, that isn't what the high-street tailors in Saigon do (of whom Dũng is certainly one), everything is done from scratch and by hand.

    Also, one last point about number of fittings. I was in Vietnam and Hong Kong for about two months so had ample time to try out about a dozen tailors. Mostly I just got shirts from them for a first try but I did get a couple of other suits aside from Dũng. One of them was done on 1 fitting only and actually fits me slightly better than Dũng's - it has a bit more waist suppression, a cleaner back and overall a slightly closer cut. (It did take just as long to make though, about five weeks.) The thing is, it's only half-canvassed and they refused to do side adjusters on the trousers. I agree with Alfa that fit is more important than anything else provided you're only ever going to get one single suit from that tailor, but I would rather keep tweaking my Dũng suits a bit here and there with each order, and after a few tries end up with something that both fits me perfectly and has full canvassing, working buttons, side adjusters and so on. If on the other hand you are looking to commission just one suit and after that never get anything else from the same place, by all means, focus on fit.
     
  3. Selvaggio

    Selvaggio Senior member

    Messages:
    583
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Australia
    Have now been to Vietnam and back and thought I would provide an update.

    I had a couple of inexpensive suits made by Duc (pronounced more like Doo-ook than Duke) tailors in Hanoi. The service, turn around, cutting and sewing were all good and the resulting suits fit well. The have a range of inexpensive fabrics grouped by price. They can also get Dormeuil if you want.

    They use a floating canvas construction. Pick stitching and button holes are well done. The initial measure up and the first fitting were very thourough.

    They are comfortable with you choosing all the standard variables - pleats or no pleats, cuffs, number of buttons etc.

    The only thing they had a 'problem' with was my desire for a double vented jacket which was considered too 'old man', which, considering I am in my forties, I took as a kind of compliment. We tussled over this for a while before I gave in on a single vent, figuring that they know their style and cut and what works with it - and it wasn't that important to me. Might have felt differently if I had been paying thousands of dollars.

    The suits fit well, but the house style it is a little odd - and you may want to be very specific on some things - so I would suggest that you don't go when you have been rushing about as the combination of Hanoi heat and humidity and some language barriers may defeat your resolve.

    I spec'ed single breasted, two button, single vent (eventually), single pleat, cuffs - I wanted to keep it all pretty standard. What I have noticed is the shoulder is medium padded. The lapel is a medium width and the gorge not too high, no too low. The buttoning point is a little high. Legs width is fine - a tad on the full side, but nothing weird. So far, so normal.

    The more distinctive aspects of the cut... the jacket is a bit short - this could be good for me, in theory as I am a bit long body/short legs, but in practice looks a bit strange when combined with other aspects of the cut. The jacket is lightly darted above the pocket flaps, but in reality is cut with virtually no waist suppression - quite boxy. The jacket has very open, rounded quarters.

    Put this all together and the effect is quite retro in almost a classic early sixties, sack suit kind of way (so good thing I went with the single vent). Not bad - just a little off centre. As I said the quality of the construction is actually really good, so I might get the waist nipped in later if I can be bothered.

    The suits were about $400 each. So amazingly good value!

    I also had a pair of shoes made at the place in HCM City that has been recommended here. Didn't have enough time to collect a finished product, so took them on trust and they sent them home for an extra $20. I got a pair of basic black Oxfords. They are well made. Leather soled, but came with a topy cover already in place. The leather is not high quality, but they fit my super wide flappers like a glove.

    Hope this is useful for anyone heading to Vietnam. Wonderful place to visit btw.
     
  4. Flursheim

    Flursheim Active Member

    Messages:
    38
    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2008
    Location:
    Virginia
    Enjoyed reading all the info. Thanks for sharing guys. FYI, please be careful about shipping fabrics to Vietnam these days. If you're shipping 4 to 5 meters it should not be a problem but if you declare, say, in excess of 20 meters (lord only knows how many suits any of us want to order [​IMG] ), it will be an issue. They are now ask for 'testing' results for imported fabric. They want to make sure that fabric imported does not have any chemicals, contaminants, etc in it. I have no idea when and how this came about but I had a couple of shipments stuck in Customs because of this. It took forever to clear the shipment. Before anyone inquires, it was not suit fabrics that I shipped. I own a small bag/luggage production studio near the airport and I was sending new nylon samples I had procured stateside. Anyway, thanks for the great info. I've be in and out of Vietnam so many times for so many years and I've never had the time nor opportunity to visit any of these tailors.
     
  5. ChunkD

    ChunkD New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2010
    My first post...break out the champagne.

    Heading to HCMC tomorrow a.m. Last April I had 2 pairs of pants and 3 shirts made by Dung. I only had 3 days and they stepped up to get them out. The pants were great, some slight fit variance, but nothing crazy. Shirts were good, but I should have specified removable collar stays. Only issue I had is lousy buttons. Curious if this is consistent or a an oddity. This time I am going for a suit, a jacket, more pants and a couple more shirts. I am 6'5", all leg and a barrel chest. I have had tailors in; Taiwan, HK, Bangkok, Canada and Vietnam. Bangkok was garbage, but the rest have been good. My buddy in Canada is a 2nd generation Italian tailor and does excellent work. I had two old Italian guys arguing over me which I take as a good sign. Anywho, I land at 11 a.m., and will drop bags and head straight to Dungs. I will only ask to have as many fittings as needed within the 7 days I am there, and they can mail it out.
     
  6. wetnose

    wetnose Senior member

    Messages:
    1,013
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2009
    My buddy in Canada is a 2nd generation Italian tailor and does excellent work. I had two old Italian guys arguing over me which I take as a good sign. Anywho, I land at 11 a.m., and will drop bags and head straight to Dungs. I will only ask to have as many fittings as needed within the 7 days I am there, and they can mail it out.

    ChunkD...can you share the name and location of your Italian tailor in Canada? What are his rates?
     
  7. ChunkD

    ChunkD New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2010
    Wetnose, no problem. His shop is Ralph's (as in Rafaelo) custom tailors. His shop is on the corner of Corydon Ave and Wilton St in Winnipeg. Rates are of course varied and fabric dependant but i think if you benchamarked $1000 and go up or down accordingly. Once he gets to know you, he will swear at you, which I value. First jacet I ordered I said no vents, and he turned on me. I get the vents now.
     
  8. poly800rock

    poly800rock Senior member

    Messages:
    3,435
    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    people should check out Lam, he does a fantastic job as well.
     
  9. sonthach54

    sonthach54 Active Member

    Messages:
    41
    Joined:
    May 13, 2011
    Location:
    Melbournre, Australia
    to resurrect a long-dead thread, what is Minh's address?
     
  10. Diggidy

    Diggidy Member

    Messages:
    14
    Joined:
    May 7, 2013
    Bumping this thread up to hopefully get some advice.

    I am going to Vietnam for 5-6 weeks this June-July for a research project, and my time is going to be split between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Probably 3 weeks in Hanoi, and 2-3 weeks in HCMC)

    I've heard that there is cheap tailoring to be had in Vietnam, and wanted to get some opinions on what to get and where to get it from. Is Dungs in HCMC still around, and has their fabric choice gotten any better (or the fabric quality in general?)

    I already have two, what I consider poor fitted suits that I bought in a rush from Men's Warehouse (I needed suits for medical school interviews and I had only a week and a half to get a suit before my first interview. Had I more time, I would have avoided them because I'm not happy with the quality or the fit of the suit). They are Navy and Charcoal.

    It seems that suit buying can be a little hit or miss in Vietnam? The main things I would like to purchase are a Navy Blazer, and if there is a quality place, a light grey suit. I have a fairly slim, but athletic build (5'10" 160 pounds, 39" chest, and 31" waist ) so I need slimmer fitting clothing, but I'm not experienced enough to know how to ask for that fit in terms of basic measurements.

    I greatly appreciate any help you guys can offer me!
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2013
  11. Diggidy

    Diggidy Member

    Messages:
    14
    Joined:
    May 7, 2013
  12. mr usneun

    mr usneun Senior member

    Messages:
    286
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2013
    Location:
    Munich, Germany
    Somebody from Vietnam in here? Need a proxy!!
     
  13. Face

    Face Member

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2010
    Hi Selvaggio. I'm going to be in Ha Noi for 2 months and keen to get a suit - 3 years on would you still recommend your one from Duc? You mention it's a bit boxy and old-fashioned - do you think it would be possible to change their minds on things like waist suppression or do you think the 'house style' will win out in the end? I'm going to be in HCMC alos, so keen to here if Dung is still going strong.
     
  14. Baudrillard

    Baudrillard New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2014
    Hey,

    i went to Dung two weeks ago and ordered four shirts and a suit. Concerning the shirts i gave him a shirt to copy from with some slight changes. I think thats the safest way and they turned out very good.
    For the suit i chose a vitale barberis canonico for testing. He calculates on a basis of 3,3m. VBC is priced at 2,5m dong a m, Dormeuil 3,7m, Scabal, Marzoni, are also on stock as well as cheaper fabrics priced between 700k and 1m. The price for the workmanship went slightly up to about ca. 80-90€.

    The shirts were ready after two weeks, as was a first version of the suit for a fitting. The final suit will take another two weeks. I was very satisfied with the first version of my suit.

    Sending it to Europe now costs USD 80 (with DHL) which is a lot but they ll "take care" of everything...
    I also visited the shoemaker mentioned in this blog Tran Quoc Lan. The shop was closed twice when i went passed and by chance i have seen it open one day. I picked up two pairs of suedes which seem to be of a decent quality.

    Furthermore, I went to Lam Tailors. Their english skills are slightly better compared to Dung. it seems that their services are widely used also by embassy staff (like at Dung) and mostly by foreigners. Tried Lam for a two piece woman suit (available from 300USD, VBC and others at 400USD) and was quite satisfied. Their customers include also Laura and George W. Bush ( a letter from the white house proudly features in her shop). I asked also about men's suits which are starting at USD500. They are half canvassed.

    Lam -like Dung- keeps measurements if you wish to reorder (you just need to chose your fabric there or send quite detailled information)) Concerning Lam, they send for approx. 30USD a kg.

    best wishes,
    Baudrillard
     
  15. GBR

    GBR Senior member

    Messages:
    7,467
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    


    It would help many if you could post a full range of photographs of the suit. - Without and without the jacket, back and front and the inside of the jacket.
     
  16. mjbek03

    mjbek03 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2014
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Hello,

    Thanks for all the great information.

    Does anyone have recent experiences with Dung or other Saigon tailors that they wouldn't mind sharing?

    In particular, what is his tailoring rate, and will be work with fabric purchased from a different vendor?

    Thanks!
     
  17. guitar2013

    guitar2013 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    65
    Joined:
    May 1, 2014
    Hi Baudrillard

    Thanks for your review. I'm interested in getting a suit there.

    Can you tell me what the overall price of your suit is? (fabrics and labor included)

    Thanks.
     
  18. ShoeT

    ShoeT Member

    Messages:
    23
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2015
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Hello,

    I am visiting Vietnam during Christmas and new year for a 3 week holiday.
    We will be in HCMC the first 3 days and then travel around and return the last two days in HCMC before returning home.
    I am planning to get a suit and a pea coat from a tailor. Based on some internet research, I think I will be visiting one of the following tailors in HCMC:

    - Dung @ Le Thanh Ton
    - Cao Minh
    - H&D Tailors

    I have some questions that hopefully you could help me out with:

    - What would be the best choice, considering my schedule? I read that Dung is the best, however his delivery time is also longer.
    Could H&D tailors be a good suggestion? They have shorter turn-around times, but I cannot find much info/reviews about them on this forum.

    - Does anybody also has a price indication for those tailors?

    - Should I contact these tailors beforehand, or is it better to just drop in once arrived in HCMC?


    Looking forward to any response and discussions and thanks in advance.
     
  19. cuongtelecoms

    cuongtelecoms Member

    Messages:
    15
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2013
    Location:
    Vietnam
    1. I think Dung_Le Thanh Ton is Ok with your timeline. I haven't experienced with H&D tailor so no comment. IMHO, Caominh is not as good as Dung in value.
    2. Labor price for Dung is about 300 usd per 2-piece suit. For the cloth price, it depends on what kind of cloth you want.
    3. You should contact them before hand for more information and appointment. But only select the suit when you visit them directly.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2015
  20. larryukys

    larryukys New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2016
    Hi,

    If you need a perfect fit suit with English Cut style in Vietnam, you can visit our showroom at here: http://www.ukys.com/local-services

    Thanks to our 15 years of experience as outsourcing tailor for many suit shops and clients in United Kingdom, a recognized leader when it comes to suits, our quality products are comparable with those created by highly skilled tailors. We use the same fabrics and techniques as you'd find in the most reputable of markets. With the technologies of 21st-century online communication, we can reach out across borders to connect with our customers anywhere in the world, and eliminate many significant costs along the way as well. UKYS is pleased to be one of the best choices in the extensive world of custom-tailored suits.

    Thank you for reading!

    Larry
     

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