Suits cut in the English tradition

[Manton]

Originally Posted by chester patel

What is the history of your suit?
Well, it was cut, fitted and made. Since then it's been worn to some office buildings, to a dinner party now and then, and on a couple of trips.

 

[texas_jack]

Originally Posted by Manton

Well, it was cut, fitted and made. Since then it's been worn to some office buildings, to a dinner party now and then, and on a couple of trips.

All the way. What was the fuzzy bugger's name?

 

[Manton]

The shape.

 

[lasbar]

Good shape and sharpness in the global silhouette..Very nice and the more structured style is starting growing on me...

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by lasbar

Good shape and sharpness in the global silhouette..Very nice and the more structured style is starting growing on me...

There is hardly any structure in that suit. No padding, minimal sleevehead wadding, and a very soft canvas. What structure that appears to be there is a byproduct of the the 16 ounce cloth.

 

[montgomery]

Very nice suit,mate. But isn't English traditional cut suit always very structured?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by montgomery

Very nice suit,mate. But isn't English traditional cut suit always very structured?

Not necessarily. There is the Military/equestrian/Poole tradition, and the Scholte/A&S/duke of W tradition. Former = structured, latter = not so much.

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Manton

Not necessarily. There is the Military/equestrian/Poole tradition, and the Scholte/A&S/duke of W tradition. Former = structured, latter = not so much.

I don't know that Poole fits in either tradition... They're sort of in between.

And, of course, many of the British consider the soft suit a rather "American" cut...

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by RJman

I don't know that Poole fits in either tradition... They're sort of in between.

Old Poole did. Today's Poole is more in between, though they still do a lot of livery and dress uniforms, which need very structured fronts to support medals and ribbons, etc.

And, of course, many of the British consider the soft suit a rather "American" cut.

Yes, but that (inadvertantly or deliberatly) fuzzes up the discinction between the Sack and the Drape.

 

[RJman]

Fair enough.

 

[greekonomist]

Originally Posted by Manton

...16 ounce cloth.

Are you comfortable in heated offices with a 16 oz 3-piece DB? I recall that you are rather intolerant of heat (I am too).

 

[Manton]

I take off my jacket in the office.

I got a bit uncomfortable in a restaurant the other day, but most of the time I am fine. Worsted wears cooler on me than flannel. I have an 11 ounce flannel that wears almost as warm as the 16 ounce worsted. 14 ounce flannel is like an overcoat.

 

[greekonomist]

Originally Posted by Manton

I take off my jacket in the office.

I got a bit uncomfortable in a restaurant the other day, but most of the time I am fine. Worsted wears cooler on me than flannel. I have an 11 ounce flannel that wears almost as warm as the 16 ounce worsted. 14 ounce flannel is like an overcoat.

Ah, of course. I should have known that insider trick. I have a grey flannel that's around 10-11 oz, and it does wear quite warm. Although I have no 16 oz worsteds to compare it to. By the way, that cloth is simply fantastic--at least what I can see of it. Is it Lesser? The suit made from it is great too.

 

[Manton]

Yeah, Lesser 16. I also have some of the Smith 15s. They wear about the same as far as I can tell.