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Suit styles

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mrburb, Nov 1, 2004.

  1. mrburb

    mrburb Member

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    Folks,

    I appreciate any help that can be offered. I have recently switched jobs and will be moving on to a company which requires formal business attire. I am thinking of getting some custom suits - as off the rack suits have never fit appropriately. Also, I am finally in a position that I can afford a couple of customer suits. My problem is that although I have medium-wide shoulders - they slope downward and the back of my suits always looks sloppy.

    Can anyone recommmend some websites (designers, etc) which have some good pictures of suit styles that are current. I want to be able to bring these to a customer suit maker for discussion purposes.

    For instance, from what people have been telling me - 3 button with side vents and higher 2 button with center or no vent - are the styles that are in. Since I have not been around business attire for awhile, I could use some help.

    I am 5'10'' but have a longer body and shorter legs.

    Thanks for your help.
     


  2. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    I second this request. I think it would be enormously educational to have a series of illustrations of different suit styles or features (roped shoulders, barchetta pockets, soft shoulders, etc.). In previous threads, there has been some relatively lengthy descriptions of suit styles, but for those of us who haven't seen that many suits, it's only marginally helpful.

    dan
     


  3. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    a couple of good sites: www.oxxfordclothes.com www.belvest.it www.paulstuart.com www.polo.com www.hickeyfreeman.com www.canali.com All of these sites have pretty high resolution pictures that allow you to see some suits on actual human beings. They represent a lot of different cuts. Unfortunately, sites like Anderson and Sheppard, Kiton, Brioni, and Borrelli don't provide very good pictures (if any at all) of high quality suits. Nevertheless, the sites posted above will give you an array of English, Italian, and American inspired styles.
     


  4. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    P.S.

    IMO, the high stance two button with double vents will be a "classic" longer than any other suit style out there.
     


  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Scroll down to the middle of the following page. http://www.styleforum.net/cgi-bin....2;st=60 The blue jacket on the left has a slightly roped shoulder: note how the top of the sleeve is raised a bit higher than the actual shoulder line of the jacket. Â It is also an example of a shoulder that is slightly concave, or "pitched": note how the jacket shoulder line curves downward from the collar (neck) and then back up near the edge. Â Admittedly, this is a very subtle pitch; some Roman and Milanese tailors will pitch the shoulder more dramatically. The shoulder of the plaid coat on the left is both rounded and natural. Â Notice that if anything, it is convex: it curves (very subtly) in the opposite direction of the blue jacket's shoulder: more like a "hump" than a "ski jump." Â And the sleevehead (where the sleeve top and shoulder edge meet) is rounded: see how the shoulder of the jacket sort of "falls" over the deltoid and into the sleeve. Â There is no dramatic, angular deliniation as there is with the other shoulder. Â It looks much more like the actual curve of an actual, physical shoulder. Â Hence the term "natural shoulder." I am not so good at posting images, but if I find any more to link, I will.
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    As for the barchetta pocket: A "welt" pocket is a kind of cut-through pocket that is typically used for the breast pocket on the vast majority of jackets. Â Sometimes the breast welt pocket is cut fairly straight across the chest, like in the first pocket on this page: http://www.styleforum.net/cgi-bin....=darren More typical of bespoke tailoring and high-end manufacturers is to angle this pocket downward from the outside egde to the inside edge. Â The pocket still follows a straight line, but that straight line is not parallel to the ground; it is at maybe a 25 degree angle (or so). Â It's not so easy to tell, but look at the suit in the later posts on this page: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/Forum....hpage=2 Now, on a typical welt pocket, whether angled or straight, the side edges will be perfectly vertical, that is, parallel to the "north-south" axis of the coat, or perpendicular to the ground (make sense?). Â Roman tailors will angle these side edges outward on each side, to make the pocket look like a little boat. The Neapolitans take this principle as step further. Â Most welt pockets, whether angled or not, are straight, as was said. Â The Neapolitans make them curved: their breast welt pockets "dip" downward in the middle. Â The edges are also angled outward. And the welt itself is wider from top to bottom. Â All in all, these pockets are said to look like little fishing boats. Â This picture is not so great, but better than nothing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....8038377
     


  7. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Thanks for your responses, Manton. They're always quite informative.

    dan
     


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