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Suit Styles for Large Men

photchan

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I've been a lurker on these boards for quite some time and have gotten loads of useful tips etc. from posters here. So thank you to everyone on these boards!

Now on to my first post....

My new job requires me to wear suits on a regular basis (my previous job was very casual) and in the past couple of years i've put on quite a bit of weight specifically on my bottom and my stomach/waist - leading to a poor fit from ready-to-wear suits. So obviously, tailored is the way to go. However, I would like to ask some of the style guru's here is there are any particular suit styles to avoid or are particularly flattering for larger men?

Also are waistcoats a good idea?

Thanks for your help.
 

LexLoci

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Well, I guess I would fit the bill as a big guy, I wear a 48R off the rack and most things fit me pretty well with a small bit of tailoring. I've never had a mtm suit, but I would like to get someone else's opinion on their experiences also.

Needless to say, the biggest problems I have are with double pleated suit pants. Flat fronts are much more flattering. Also, as for jacket styles, I find a two button with higher button stance makes my larger torso appear somewhat shorter and slimmer. I cannot wear a ventless suit they are not flattering when buttoned, or alternatively are too large, side vents are optimum.

Darker colors with narrow pin stripes are also a good choice. I've never worn a vest so I can't give an opinion on how those work, but I don't think they'd be appropriate as I look younger than my age.
 

Joel_Cairo

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If you aim to hide your size: you want double vents, for sure, and steer away from 3 buttons, as the little trinagle of shirt & tie up top will be overwhelmed by the expanse of suiting below, and you'll look like a sausage. Those narrow lapels which are currently are all the rage wont work for you. Peak lapels would be good, as they'll give an impression of a V on your chest, accentating you shoulders and chest more than your gut.

If you "own" your size: double-breasted suits on a Hemingwayesque, Orson Wellsy figure can be very striking. If you're new job requires any degree of intimidation (heated negotitations, etc.), you might want to try a DB.
 

Leaveitothexperts

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Originally Posted by LexLoci
Darker colors with narrow pin stripes are also a good choice. I've never worn a vest so I can't give an opinion on how those work, but I don't think they'd be appropriate as I look younger than my age.

I definitely don't fit the bill, but I'd go for say an inch apart of less than subtle pin stripes . . . . white or off white on a charcoal, navy or light gray suit perhaps?
 

Jovan

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I wouldn't advise DBs, myself. SB two button is a better way to go I think. Waistcoats aren't a great idea since they visually bulk you up more.
 

mensimageconsultant

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Pinstripes and vests (single-breasted with jacket unbuttoned, Manton would say) definitely can help, but they might not be situationally appropriate.

Most likely, pleats would help, especially from the side. The unvented look (off the rack, at least) does not flatter a large seat. As is the usual disclaimer, more specific advice requires more details about the wearer.

Edit: also dark fine worsteds help, as various sources (including above) recommend. A striped tie or striped shirt can help, also. Then there is the egregious omission about jacket pockets, with besom (flapless) pockets far better than the other types.
 

Jovan

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Hacking pockets are a good idea, btw.
 

mensimageconsultant

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Not as good as besom and too 'dandy' for most offices.
 

large&stylish

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Hello

I'm rather new here having only registered today.

This post may apply to this area but I'm also posting elsewhere to attract more attention.

I'm in need of some style advice for evening/clubbing wear.

Ordinarily I'd wear a dress shirt (possible french cuff) and some sharp trousers, sometimes business pinstripe trousers out with decent leather shoes.
I'm trying to spice my evening wear up a little and would like to introduce to it:

  • blazer/jacket
  • possibly a vest (either a button up or pull-over vest), and
  • any other ideas which have been tried and tested.

My sizings usually - but subject to brand/label - are as follows:

JACKET
127CM / 50"

TROUSERS
117CM / 46"

I'd appreciate any advice any of you could provide in this regard.

If they exist, an online style guide with examples would be perfect.

Cheers
smile.gif
 

koolhistorian

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Being on the portly side myself I will throw the 2 cents - most important is the cut, not the style. Let me elaborate on that - my actual tailor really shaves me at least 10 kg with his cut, including with waistcoats. So, in my view the most important thing is to get a very good fit - which off the rack suits normally do not have, as they are destined to rather standard figures, rather to non-standard ones. I know that it is a more costly venture, but when it is well done, it is really doing miracles. I had the tendency to wear almost only pinstripes, now I am contemplating a second windowpane suit (discreet, but window pane), lighter colors, etc. The whole secret is in how your ideal look will be translated in a startorial result. I favor the SB 3 button (sometimes roll 2), pants with a mildly higher rise (buckle under the belly button), pleats optional, cuffs optional.
There is also the problem of balancing your outfit in general, shirt, tie, shoes, watch, haircut - I find that rather classic english footwear is better looking on me than dressy italian shoes. Massiveness is not a sin, just wear it with grace. Look at the late Gianfranco Ferre or Philippe Noiret, they were no Brad Pitts, but definitively gentlemen of style.
You wont look like Judd Law, but you will look decent, as a well dressed portly gentleman!
 

OxxfordSJLINY

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Originally Posted by LexLoci
I've never worn a vest so I can't give an opinion on how those work, but I don't think they'd be appropriate as I look younger than my age.

I have to disagree with your statement about vested suits not being appropriate for young people and younger looking people, LexLoci. Vested suits, just like double breasted suits, are appropriate for people of all ages, regardless of whether they look younger or older than they are or if they look the age that they are, as long as they have stopped growing.

But for those who have yet to stop growing, vested and double breasted suits are definitely not appropriate.

Spending all of that additional money on a vested or double breasted suit over a single breasted suit is worthless, wasteful and pointless if the person has yet to stop growing (especially when you consider that double breasted suits and, even more than that, vested suits are, for the most part, only available made to measure and bespoke these days).
 

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