Suit sleeve vents were sewn shut by tailor after alterations and sleeves/cuffs are no longer functional - is this common?

[Acarinae13]

I took a suit jacket to a tailor to get the sleeves lengthened and the sleeves originally had surgeon cuffs, however in the process of lengthening it, the tailor stitched the cuff vents (excuse me if I've used the wrong term) shut and they're no longer functional/working sleeves. Here are some photos of the issue:

When I questioned why it was done this way, his reasoning was that there was "not enough material" (presumably the inside lining rather than the suit material itself?) to both lengthen the sleeve and retain the original design. Both sleeves were lengthened by approximately 3/4 of an inch. Is this normal with sleeve length alterations, or should I be taking it elsewhere to get it somehow reversed or fixed?

Appreciate any advice and thanks in advance!

 

[Spaghettimatt]

No. This is weird and you should demand he unstitch the working cuffs.

 

[breakaway01]

I am not a tailor but this is why working cuffs are a pain to alter. When the cuff is lengthened there has to be enough fabric not just for the end of the sleeve itself but also under the overlapping part of the cuff (not sure what the correct term for that is). I think it is quite possible that there isn’t enough fabric to do this.

 

[EFV]

Nope, totally unacceptable. Take it somewhere else and have them pay for it to be properly altered.

 

[hamish5178]

I am not a tailor but this is why working cuffs are a pain to alter. When the cuff is lengthened there has to be enough fabric not just for the end of the sleeve itself but also under the overlapping part of the cuff (not sure what the correct term for that is). I think it is quite possible that there isn’t enough fabric to do this.

Yes, you can see in OP's picture that there was not enough lining and the tailor had to add a strip of navy fabric to extend the sleeve that far. I have had many sleeves let out and while there is usually plenty of fabric inside the sleeve, there is often ~1/2" or less of lining to spare. The end result (when extending the lining like this) is always sort of janky and so I try to just find jackets with longer sleeves now.

 

[Andy57]

I agree with Erik. It's difficult (or virtually impossible) the lengthen or shorten sleeves with working cuffs at the sleeve end. It is usually done from the shoulder and is, therefore, not a trivial undertaking. That said, it is doable and your alterations tailor should have either done it correctly or told you that he could not.

 

[MajorDash]

I agree with Erik. It's difficult (or virtually impossible) the lengthen or shorten sleeves with working cuffs at the sleeve end. It is usually done from the shoulder and is, therefore, not a trivial undertaking. That said, it is doable and your alterations tailor should have either done it correctly or told you that he could not.

Literally no tailor I’ve ever talked to would shorten from the shoulder. I have asked a handful and they all looked at me like I was insane.

 

[Andy57]

Literally no tailor I’ve ever talked to would shorten from the shoulder. I have asked a handful and they all looked at me like I was insane.

Okay.

 

[MajorDash]

Okay.

And even if you found someone crazy enough to do it, it would probably be a $200+ alteration with the risk of the shoulders and sleeves being permanently jacked up.

 

[Andy57]

And even if you found someone crazy enough to do it, it would probably be a $200+ alteration with the risk of the shoulders and sleeves being permanently jacked up.

If you say so.

 

[Nitrogen]

I agree with Erik. It's difficult (or virtually impossible) the lengthen or shorten sleeves with working cuffs at the sleeve end. It is usually done from the shoulder and is, therefore, not a trivial undertaking. That said, it is doable and your alterations tailor should have either done it correctly or told you that he could not.

Unless you need to make large adjustments, I can't see why it would be difficult or impossible. I just got my surgeon cuff sportscoat back with a 1/2 inch taken off from the sleeves and looks good to me.

 

[Andy57]

Unless you need to make large adjustments, I can't see why it would be difficult or impossible. I just got my surgeon cuff sportscoat back with a 1/2 inch taken off from the sleeves and looks good to me.

That's great. 👍

 

[Viral]

I agree with Erik. It's difficult (or virtually impossible) the lengthen or shorten sleeves with working cuffs at the sleeve end. It is usually done from the shoulder and is, therefore, not a trivial undertaking. That said, it is doable and your alterations tailor should have either done it correctly or told you that he could not.

Serious question: How can you lengthen sleeves from the shoulder? I can’t even picture how this would be possible. And why would altering the shoulder be the first option for any competent tailor whether lengthening or shortening the sleeve length?

@Acarinae13 the tailor should have told you that by lengthening the sleeve you’d be losing the working cuffs. However, the amount you asked to lengthen also makes me wonder if you bought the right size - maybe you need L sizes due to your arm length?

 

[Andy57]

Serious question: How can you lengthen sleeves from the shoulder? I can’t even picture how this would be possible. And why would altering the shoulder be the first option for any competent whether lengthening or shortening the sleeve length?

Let me just say, to start with, I don't give a **** what people do or don't do to alter their working cuff sleeve lengths. I would question why the sleeves are the wrong length to start with.

If you change the length of a sleeve from the cuff end that has working cuff buttons, then those buttons will either be too close to the end of the sleeve or too far away. If you are okay with that, great, good for you. But if you want it done properly, the sleeve must be removed and lengthened or shortened at the shoulder. But, again, I really don't care. Do it any way your alterations person tells you it must be done.

 

[breakaway01]

The bottom line is that there should never be a need to significantly change the sleeve length on a jacket with working cuffs. If you have the jacket custom-made for you or have working buttonholes put into your own RTW jacket, then the sleeve length should be correct. If you buy RTW jackets with working cuffs (e.g. SuitSupply) or buy a used jacket with working cuffs, you should make sure that no (or minimal, <1/2") sleeve length alterations are required before purchasing.

There are limitations to how much can be done from the shoulder. The sleeve can only be lengthened by how much extra material is in the seam allowance. Shortening the sleeve is limited by the fact that the sleeve tapers, so at some point there is too little material to sew into the armhole.