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suit sleeve gussets?

otacon

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We see them all of the time on shirts, but I think tonight may have been the first time I encountered any examples for suits. They can be a little unsightly, but so are low armholes on otr suits.

That brings me to my point. I'm thinking of asking a tailor to use some extra fabric from the pants to create sleeve gussets similar to the ones in the link below for added mobility (along with doing something to the pads, probably). Does anyone have any other examples or suggestions? I've seen them mentioned in a few topics, but nothing very substantial (mostly drawings).

http://costumesincarnate.blogspot.co...gh-part-2.html
 

amplifiedheat

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I only know a little about tailoring, but one thing that occurred to me was the idea of essentially narrowing the armhole and sleevehead and filling the resulting space with a sort of crescent-shaped gusset. It would probably be more complex and difficult to get right, but less noticeable. The limitation on gussets, the author notes, is that the increased fullness has to fit into the same hole. My idea would avoid that. Obviously, it helps a lot to have extra fabric from hemming the trousers.

Hopefully Despos or someone can come along to explain to me why this is ludicrous.
 

patrickBOOTH

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Look at Part one, they made a sleeve for a dancer that looks much nicer than the gusset in the underarm.

I can't see why any person with a normal job would need these kind of adjustments. Normal work days don't really require me to do the backstroke unincumbered. Small armholes are good enough.

http://costumesincarnate.blogspot.co...nt-enough.html
 

Despos

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I could see a vertically placed gusset helping with forward motion like a bi-swing back, but not the application pictured here. Seems to work against upward motion. Properly fitted shoulder/armhole will suffice
 

The Louche

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Originally Posted by Despos
I could see a vertically placed gusset helping with forward motion like a bi-swing back, but not the application pictured here. Seems to work against upward motion. Properly fitted shoulder/armhole will suffice

I'm no tailor but I agree. The picture in the link looks pretty unsightly to my eye. You can get a properly sized armhole for your body by using even modest MTM programs.
 

otacon

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I'm not sure I agree about the dancer sleeves, just because that extra fabric is more noticable when arms are down, whereas the gusset is mostly hidden. Maybe I'm wrong though.

I agree that appropriately shaped armholes and sleeves are usually enough. This would only be for modifying OTR jackets that we can't move in.

Of course, narrowing the sleevehead and filling the hole, like amplifiedheat mentioned, might be a better idea, if there's spare fabric. Would that even have to be a gusset? Wouldn't it just be a higher armhole? I recognize that the seam might be visible when I'm moving, but probably less noticeable than a gusset, no?
 

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