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Suit sizing

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Stu, May 4, 2004.

  1. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    Location:
    Princeton
    I am looking to special order a tan cotton/cashmere suit from Aquascutum via Ben Silver. The problem is that I have to have the measurements exact because being a custom job, it is non-returnable.

    All my suits are 42R and they fit with varying degrees of success.  But through working out, I have added some muscle and my chest now measures 42 inches -- which leads one to believe a 44 R would be better. Were I to buy a Zegna, Canali, Brioni, Corneliani, St. Andrews or other such suit today, I would get a 44R. When I try them on in Saks and other such places, I find 44R works much better.

    I emailed BS and asked about the measurements, and they told me the suit in 42R suit measures 21 inches seam-to-seam under the arms, or pretty much true to size, as well as 32.5 top of collar to bottom of jacket, and about 20 inches across the shoulder.

    Anyone familiar with Acquascutum sizing?  I can't decide whether to get a 42 R or a 44 R, or order another just to test the size and then return it. Everyone tells me Acquascutum fits larger, which leads me to believe a 42 R would be fine.
     
  2. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    Wait... so they're saying that a jacket marked 42R has an exact measurement of 42 inches in the chest? That can't be right. A suit marked 42R is for a person with a chest measurement of 42 inches - the jacket itself is usually 3-4 inches larger than that, so said person can fit in it. I vote for 'e-mail again and confirm'.
     
  3. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    Princeton
    Upon further review, I pulled one of my 42R suits from the closet and measured it. Under the seams it is only about 19 inches or so. That is seam to seam. If you measure a jacket according to A. Harris' thread -- spreading it out and measuring all the way across -- you get a much higher number.

    Given that, wouldn't a seam-to-seam on the front measurement of 21 inches be about right? That would mean it measures, spread out, probably about 23 or so, which would mean 46 which is perfect for a 42-inch chest.

    Of course I could just order one of the stock suits and return it, then use the credit to buy the custom, but that's kind of a hassle. The stock suits have a center vent and no ticket pocket. The custom job has a ticket pocket and double vents, so I really want the custom job.

    Decisions, Decisions.
     
  4. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    I won't buy suits online.

    size of the chest is important .. but size of over-arm is also important for proper fitting.
     
  5. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    Location:
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    I agree.

    If Ben Silver can confirm that the RTW and MTM suits have exactly the same silhouette, I'd buy one ready-to-wear as a test, and then exchange it - only way to be sure.
     

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