Suit Sizing and Drops

[morse]

I just went to SOF and tried on various suits, and discovered that the tailors at Nordstrom have been fitting me incorrectly. They insisted that I'm a 38R, more American-cut (Abboud, yuck) jacket size. I tried on a few 38's at Saks, and then a 40R in Zegna and Dunhill made in Italy (these are Zegna as well, right?) examples, and found a much better fit. Even a Hickey Freeman 40R fit great, though the Italian brands with more waist suppresion suited me better. The problem is that I wear a size 30 pant, and my natural waist is even smaller...around 28 or 29. My chest is approximately 41 inches, and my shoulders are rather broad as well. I didn't try on the pants, but all the suits I've mentioned (in addition to other such Italian cuts, like Corneliani) have a 6 inch drop, if I'm not mistaken. Can suit pants be taken in 4 or more inches? I'm really not ready for MTM, as I rely on finding bargins at outlet stores and the like, or spending about $600 at a place like Nordstrom, which gets me Joseph Abboud. I know Brooksease suits are sold in separates, but what about any Italian makers? The Dunhill suits were a great bargain at $500 (I have a 25% coupoon that would bring it down to $375), and with tailoring, would fit my budget. The Hickey's were $600, so I'd be paying $450, still a good price. The other question I had was concerning length- how long should a suit jacket be? I'm not sure if in moving up to a 40 chest size I should seek short instead of regular models (I'm only 5' 8&quot. I haven't heard of any good makers producing suits with larger drops, especially those that can be readily found in an outlet store. Does anyone have advice to help me resolve my dilemma?

 

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by morse

. Can suit pants be taken in 4 or more inches?
The trousers can be re-cut (taken in at both side and rear seams) for under $100. Best to use a custom tailor rather than an alterations tailor as the job can be tricky for some.

Originally Posted by morse

The other question I had was concerning length- how long should a suit
jacket be?


It should cover your butt, and a bit more.

 

[Roger]

Pants can't be taken in 4" and still look good. This much reduction will throw off the line and balance. The most agreed-upon rule-of-thumb for maximum waist reduction (and the accompanying reduction down through the seat and thighs) is 2".

As for jacket length, probably the most reliable rule-of-thumb is that the hem should fall at about half the distance (or just a hair more) between the bottom of the collar of the jacket and the floor, when you are standing in dress shoes. So, for example, if that distance is 57" (and get someone to help you with this--taking a tape measure and starting it at the seam at the bottom of the collar and letting it drop to the floor, measuring that exact distance), you would likely look best in a jacket that is somewhere in the neighborhood of 28.5" - 29". That is, the length of the jacket measured down the back, from the collar seam to the hem, should be about 28.5" - 29". For myself, I like my jackets to be just a touch longer, so that I would feel comfortable in a jacket of 29" or even 29.5" length if the distance given above (57") were correct for me. I'm guessing that 57" might be about right for you because I'm 6" even, and that distance is 61" for me, but you should, of course, carefully take the measurement yourself.

 

[rgpuppy]

many nested suits are available in 8 inch drops...meaning the 40R would have a 32 waist.

an 8" drop is considered an athletic fit. I would imagine that with that small of a waist you would also benefit from a "trim fit" coat.

Suit Separates are really going to be your friend here....Brooks, NM, both have nice quality separates.

I too and 5'8" and wear my coat a bit on the longish side...i find the old rule of thumb that the coat hem should end where you cup your fingers.

 

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by rgpuppy

the coat hem should end where you cup your fingers.
This is not an accurate method to determine jacket length, as arm length will vary among individuals.

 

[a tailor]

the jacket is supposed to cover the torso. forget the math and arm lengths.
the length should cover the butt plus an inch on the average. if its a tall person then a bit more than an inch, shorter a bit less.
for trouser recut see ask andy, "search" scroll down to trouser alterations.
yes 4 inches demands a trouser recut.
easyest solution more beer.

 

[thinman]

Originally Posted by rgpuppy

many nested suits are available in 8 inch drops...meaning the 40R would have a 32 waist.

an 8" drop is considered an athletic fit. I would imagine that with that small of a waist you would also benefit from a "trim fit" coat.

Suit Separates are really going to be your friend here....Brooks, NM, both have nice quality separates.

I too and 5'8" and wear my coat a bit on the longish side...i find the old rule of thumb that the coat hem should end where you cup your fingers.


I know that Corneliani makes suits with an 8" drop, so the trousers with a 40R suit would have a 32" waist and can be taken in by 2". You'll probably have to be patient and search long and hard to find suits with an 8" drop, or else swallow the full retail cost and order one. I'm sure other makers also make suits with an 8" drop, but I know I've seen Corneliani. If you can afford it, MTM is another option.