Suit Size: Do you err snug or roomy?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by superseiyan, Jun 15, 2009.

  1. superseiyan

    superseiyan Active Member

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    My body: I'm an athletic build (think 100m sprinter).
    Look I'm after: I like my suits to fit like Daniel Craig of 007 fame.

    I've lost enough weight that I've recently moved down to size 40 suits (40 off the rack). 42R off the rack in a typical American Department store is now baggy.

    What I'd like to know is if it comes to buying one with possible need for slight alterations, is it better to go:

    - Larger: More than fists worth space inside jacket when buttoned. Probably two full fists worth. Somewhat of a box look, but shoulder fits (19 shoulder, 42 chest, 25 sleeve, 30 length). 42 R

    - Snugger: Less space inside jacket when buttoned. Shoulders hugged slightly more, probably a perfect shoulder fit. A little better silhoutte, though might still need a little shaping at the waist, chest is not very roomy (18.5 shoulder, 40 chest, 25 sleeve, 30 length). 40 R

    I think in the large, the shoulder is a tad large, and roomier when buttoned. In the snug the shoulder is perfect, with still a little space to give when buttoned (I can tell when I stick my hand in) though the chest area might be a tad tight.

    Suit is double vented, manufacturer doesn't make 41.


    Is it easier to take-in the larger suit, or to let out the smaller one? Can a waist be taken in for an appealing silhouette WITHOUT also taking in the chest?

    Sorry I don't have pics with me.
     


  2. Chips

    Chips Senior member

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    Find the best fit for the shoulders first. You can take in a roomier waist and have a nicer resulting taper.

    Having two fists worth of space in the chest of a jacket is too much IMO
     


  3. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    - Snugger: Less space inside jacket when buttoned. Shoulders hugged slightly more, probably a perfect shoulder fit. A little better silhoutte, though might still need a little shaping at the waist, chest is not very roomy (18.5 shoulder, 40 chest, 25 sleeve, 30 length). 40 R
    .


    I don't understand why you are even considering the larger one if this one fits ?

    The only time I buy a bigger jacket is a winter jacket I intend to wear with a heavy sweater under it.
     


  4. HRoi

    HRoi Senior member

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    yeah, just get the 40R and have it taken in at the sides

    or get a jacket designed with a large drop, like 8
     


  5. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    Based entirely on the description i would go with the 40R, though i would like to see pics before putting my stamp of approval on it.
     


  6. superseiyan

    superseiyan Active Member

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    Based entirely on the description i would go with the 40R, though i would like to see pics before putting my stamp of approval on it.

    That's me in the suit roughly 15 pounds heavier. I'm slimmer at the waiste and my arms are a little skinnier. I had a belly in that picture, but my stomach's flat now. My chest upper chest is nto that smaller, I lift weights so I ahve some mass at my chest.

    Where the jacket is buttoned, that's where there's a lot of fist space right now.

    That jacket I'm wearing there is 42r 19shoulder 42 chest 25 sleeve and 30 length.

    The same thing in a 40r would be 18.5 shoulder 40 chest 25 sleeve nad 30 length.

    So its between sizing down or keeping whats on the picture (a 42r) and altering it.
    [​IMG]
     


  7. Chips

    Chips Senior member

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    Go with the 40R and if it were me, I'd wear the trousers a bit higher.
     


  8. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    That's me in the suit roughly 15 pounds heavier. I'm slimmer at the waiste and my arms are a little skinnier. I had a belly in that picture, but my stomach's flat now. My chest upper chest is nto that smaller, I lift weights so I ahve some mass at my chest. Where the jacket is buttoned, that's where there's a lot of fist space right now. That jacket I'm wearing there is 42r 19shoulder 42 chest 25 sleeve and 30 length. The same thing in a 40r would be 18.5 shoulder 40 chest 25 sleeve nad 30 length. So its between sizing down or keeping whats on the picture (a 42r) and altering it.
    Impossible comparison, you're lighter now, and thats a tough fit pose, as most likely the back of the jacket is being stretched. All things considered that suit in that picture looks pretty good on you, a few notes to make. The pocket square fold, dont do it, poof or TV fold. Dont match the square to anything in particular. Especially the tie. Show some cuff, shorter pants (less break).
     


  9. furo

    furo Senior member

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    Looks like you're in the same boat as I'm in, sort of caught in between sizes. You can see my thread here.

    I also have the same problem with the shoulders fitting well but the chest being on the tight side due to weight lifting and pushups(causing a slight bulge in the lapels).

    I'm probably not going to size up, for what it's worth. I'd rather have the correct shoulder fit.. I think it compliments my build better that way.
     


  10. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Correct fit.
     


  11. sharks9022

    sharks9022 Senior member

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    I swim in college so I have a fairly large chest and a very slim waist, and I prefer to have the shoulders hugged fairly tight. If you have a muscular chest I think you should try to accent it.
     


  12. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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    I swim in college so I have a fairly large chest and a very slim waist, and I prefer to have the shoulders hugged fairly tight. If you have a muscular chest I think you should try to accent it.

    uh..no. you dont want to accent any 'muscular' look in a suit.
     


  13. furo

    furo Senior member

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    uh..no. you dont want to accent any 'muscular' look in a suit.

    If you have a muscular build, a well-fitting suit will accent that build... there's no getting around it
     


  14. vncrz

    vncrz Senior member

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    I erred on the snug side for the last suit I bought, took it to the tailor and had him let out the sides of the jacket, and it looks perfect now. Most suits have additional fabric which allows this. Considering you want that 007 slim look, I suggest you do the same. As someone said, you can change anything but the shoulders.
     


  15. funko

    funko Active Member

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    for the chest, even if it is snug, as long as teh lapels stay flat o nyour chest,and don't pull up at the inner edges, so that they come off teh chest, then definitely get teh one that is snug on your shoulders, yet not too small so that your arms bludge out against the outer sleeve edges.
     


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