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Suit shoulders

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by matadorpoeta, Jul 28, 2003.

  1. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    Are there any suitmakers whose jackets tend to have narrower shoulders than the norm. I am a size 40 but like the way a 38 fits me in the shoulder.

    Also, does anyone know if it is possible to make a suit without shoulder pads? I hate them in principal and am curious to know if they can be avoided.
     


  2. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If a size 38 fits the shoulders but is to tight around the waist and a size 40 is correct around the waist and is too wide in the shoulders, than you have chosen a suit with the wrong "drop".

    The drop is the number of inches the waist is narrower than the chest. In an athletic fit the drop might be 7", in a slim fit it's usually 6". That means a 40" chest comes with a waist of 33" or 34" respectively. For bigger waists you need a lesser drop as not everybody with a bigger waist, is taller and sports broader shoulders. You can buy suits with a drop 4" or 5", if that is what you need. In the old days they would have produced suits in "portly" and "stout" with a drop of 2" and nil. I hope you are not that big.

    Some retailers offer you to chose jacket and trousers in whatever size required. But that is only a compromise. Someone with a huge belly needs a differently cut jacket (with more material in the front as to be able to close the buttons). I'm not US based, so I don't know which American suits are quite generous in their cut. These makers are more likely to be conservative and not the most fashion-conscious of manufacturers.

    A good alteration tailor should be able to take the shoulders in (re-cut them), although that's a pretty big job and it won't be cheap.
     


  3. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    If you want suits with narrow shoulders most of the hip designers such as Dior Homme or Helmut Lang offers these slim type of suits.

    However if a more tradtional style is preferred H.Huntsman makes a suit with narrow shoulders in the Anglo style. Most of the Saville Row types make a somewhat narrow shouldered suit.
     


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