• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Hi, we have updated our Terms of Service and Privacy Policy in anticipation of the upcoming new Calfornia laws, the CCPA. If you are a resident of California, these rights pertain to you. Thanks - Styleforum Team.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Suit shoulder question -- can you undo a lowered collar?

yls2012

Active Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2012
Messages
43
Reaction score
5
I have a RLBL suit with two small divots in the middle of each shoulder. They are more pronounced on the left shoulder and virtually nonexistent on the right. They are similar to, but less severe than, those on this suit: http://putthison.com/post/7215023321/collar-gaps-shoulder-divots-an-explanation.

I think this was caused by having the collar lowered. I've read here that lowering a collar helps folks with square shoulders fit into a suit that has more sloped shoulders. This might cause the shoulders to buckle and bump a bit. I did not notice this before the suit was tailored (several months ago). Also, I have a couple of other RLBL suits in the same size that didn't have the collar lowered, and don't have the shoulder divots.

Today, I took the suit into a RL store, where the sales associate was unsure of the cause. The tailor steamed and pressed the shoulders, which improved things right away. However, when I tried on the jacket again tonight, I noticed the same problem.

I was hoping for advice as to what to do. I'm tempted to ask RL to raise the collar slightly, or undo the lowering they did. I'd rather have a small bump in the back then bumps on the shoulder.

Is this possible? Do tailors cut the excess fabric when they lower the collar, or push it into the collar? Is this advisable, or is it tricky to mess with the collar so much?

Would you ask them to re-press the shoulders, or inspect the shoulder pads to make sure they're not wrinkled?

Apologies for the long post and thanks in advance for any advice.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
6,603
Reaction score
2,002
Making a shoulder or remaking a shoulder is a skilled operation. The person doing the work probably doesn't make a good shoulder. Depending on what causes the roll under the collar will determine how to do the adjustment. As I think about this, there are many reasons for your problem but undoing the alteration will not make the bumps go away and steaming will make it worse. Pressing helps for 2 minutes. They probably just opened the collar and adjusted the shoulder but didn't open the sleeve. Opening the sleeve triples the amount of time to do this work and doubles the required skill level.
 

yls2012

Active Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2012
Messages
43
Reaction score
5
Despos, thank you very much for your thoughtful response. Unfortunately this doesn't sound like an easy fix.

To clarify: would you ask the tailor to make an adjustment to the collar through the sleevehead as well? What would be the best way to bring this to the tailor's attention and help her understand how to approach the problem?
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How wide do you like your leg opening on your trousers?

  • 7”

    Votes: 58 17.7%
  • 7.5”

    Votes: 110 33.5%
  • 8”

    Votes: 98 29.9%
  • 8.5”

    Votes: 36 11.0%
  • 9”

    Votes: 13 4.0%
  • 9.5”

    Votes: 7 2.1%
  • 10”

    Votes: 1 0.3%
  • 10.5”

    Votes: 5 1.5%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
432,469
Messages
9,273,717
Members
194,658
Latest member
HoboJoe_Pmantis
Top