Suit shoulder or sleeve puckering

[gefinzi]

I have several good suits with a problem I will call shoulder puckering. At the upper part of the sleeve, just under the shoulder pad, the sleeves tend to "dent" inward. Pulling down on the sleeve makes this "dent" disappear. (I'm not talking about the "puckering" at the sleeve-head which is a normal appearance for some Neapolitan jackets...this problem is below the spot where the sleeve meets the body of the suit).

I recall reading somewhere this problem can result if the point-to-point is too narrow, but I'm not sure that is the problem. The suits in question are a Barbera and an Oxxford, both with light shoulder padding. The point-to-point seems fine on the jackets without any other signs of pulling or tightness. Additionally, the point-to-point is at least as wide as other jackets I own, like RLPL, without any puckering. Could the size of my deltoids have anything to do with this? I work out but I wouldn't say I have unusual muscle bulk.

Can someone identify the problem? If so, is there a solution?

Thanks in advance.

 

[mensimageconsultant]

It could be the size of your triceps relative to your deltoids. If you have a very good local tailor, ask what he (or she) can do about it. Chances are, however, not much more than what would come from your wearing thinner shirts or undershirts.

 

[billiebob]

I don't have a solution for you, but the same problem baffles me on a thickly padded Zegna suit I own, and on a Gitman sport coat. They dent inward at the top of the sleeves about 1/2 inch, as if the jacket shoulder doesn't have enough volume to allow the jacket to fully settle onto my deltoids.

I think these jackets were cut to overhang the shoulders a little more than I am wearing them, but I look forward to other answers.

 

[Ludlow]

Your suits don't fit. They are made for someone with wider shoulders. It's a common mistake for off-the-rack shoppers. Or people trying for a 1980's big shoulderpad Italian look. But as I said, it is a common mistake - don't worry too much about it.

 

[gefinzi]

Thanks for the input everyone.

Actually my suits fit quite well, albeit not perfectly or I wouldn't have this problem. The suits in question are a recent Barbera Collezione (off the rack) and a MTM Oxxford, both with light shoulder padding.

I posted this question on the London Lounge and got a nice explanation of the problem and what to do:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=6573

 

[TAPEMAN]

The look is to show that puckering. Just look at the Mad Men episodes, Pope of Greenwich Village, The Man from U.N.C.L.E. etc. Dormeuil, Zegna, Canali catalogue. They all have this puckered look. Lower the sleeve head if you want the shoulder to look clean.

 

[artoftime]

Not.....DIVOTS!!

 

[Doxe]

Gefinzi,

See this thread in which jeffreyd explains the reasons for the divots/divets you're seeing on your jackets:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=151698

Cheers,

-B