Suit shoulder creasing revisited

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AlexE, Oct 8, 2013.

  1. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    I obviously have searched the forum for threads on shoulder creasing of suits and found many very good explanations for the typical case that there is a horizontal crease from front to back, which I understand is caused by a should which is too thick for the jacked such that the armhole gets stretched.

    Now I have a question regarding another case: I recently tried a local MTM suit maker and picked up the result a week ago. Things are generally OK with the exception of the shoulder/sleeve: From the front the shoulder looks relatively smooth, see the first photo. However, from the side one can see three horizontal creases which start at the back (where the sleeve is sewn into the armhole and ends somewhere close to the center of the cleeve. The interesting thing is that there is no tension on the fabric and no creasing in front half of the sleeve.

    Does anybody have an idea what causes this wrinkling and if this can be fixed?

    P.S.: Sorry for the low photo quality ... but I think they still make the issue visible.

    http://s18.postimg.org/xpf8vyhnt/IMG_20131007_00016edited.jpg

    http://s22.postimg.org/s9oqubzox/IMG_20131007_00031circle.jpg
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Your pictures isolate the issue but don't reveal enough to diagnose the various things that might be causing this. From the view of the second picture I would just reshape the sleeve cap to the size/shape of the armhole. This should be enough to correct the wrinkles. It may need other adjustments but the pictures don't provide enough information.
     
  3. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    OK I will post better pics as soon as I am back from a business trip.

    Out of curiosity: would "reshaping the sleeve cap to the size/shape of the armhole" be something which can be done by a competent tailor on the existing garment?
     
  4. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    Here are some better pictures regarding the issue - happy for any further inputs on potential underlying causes and remedies.

    Front view (no issue visible from this side)
    [​IMG]

    Side view with the creases marked with a red circle (I do not worry about any wrinkles further down the sleeve as they are caused by arm motion)
    [​IMG]

    Rear view (again the creasing is visible on the left and right shoulder
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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  6. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    Ac - no the shoulder wrinkling does not go away in such situation
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2013
  7. Sean McKee

    Sean McKee Well-Known Member

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    Possible problems

    1. Point to Point too short, you need to extend it a little maybe 1/4"
    2. The sleeves need to be turned forward a bit
    3. Sleeves may need to be widened
    4. The half back needs to be reduced maybe up to a half inch. Too much fabric in the back under the arms
    5. It looks like the balance of the coat is off as I'm looking at the front button, it's not even and causing a pucker. Could be a low shoulder. You need a lower button placement for your build.
    6. The sleeve buttons end to far from the bottom of the sleeves.

    In general I don't think this garment was made for you very well. I question the measurements and overall fit and look of this coat.

    Hope this helps!
     
  8. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    Sean thanks for the inputs especially regarding the shoulder issue.

    The button stance looks mainly rediculous on the pictures since they have been taken at an upward angle which distorts the proportions of the jacket front in the front and side view.

    I am not sure if i get the last point regarding the sleeve buttons...the distance between them and the end of the sleeve is in line with any other rtw or bespoke suits i own.
     
  9. Sean McKee

    Sean McKee Well-Known Member

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    Yeah it's hard sometimes looking at pics. Regarding the sleeve buttons, it looks like they are a couple inches up from the bottom of the sleeves, the last button closest to the end of the sleeve. Generally the last button is only approx 1 1/2", give or take 1/4", up the sleeve from the bottom. Again, I'm just going by the pic and I may be wrong but the last button just looks like it's too far up from the sleeve bottom.

    Your jacket button placement may be good but from the side view pic it still seems a little too high in my opinion but again, I may be wrong. It seems like your coat is opening up at the lower button and not closing properly. If that is the case you may want to have them move the top button down closer to the most prominent part of your coat waist on your next order.

    Sean
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2013

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