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Suit question

houston

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This is my first post and I would appreciate any advice or input on a decision I'm trying to make. I found a solid, 2 button charcoal gray Oxxford suit (Manhattan II model) at Filene's Basement for a great price ($800). Its currently on hold for me and I'm trying to decide what to do. Here are the concerns I have with it:

1. The cut/styling seems not optimal. Because of my age (26) and body, it seems that the cut of regular Zegna and Armani really works well for me compared to the older feeling Oxxford. That said, it is beautiful and I would take it to an excellent tailor to bring it in at the sides and alter anything else to perfect the fit (and it fits quite well at the shoulder).

2. I already have a solid charcoal suit which is nice (Burberry) as well as a solid navy (Burberry too) and navy pinstripe (Jos A. Banks - not my favorite). I was actually looking for a deal on either a light gray suit or a charcoal chalk stripe since I have a solid one and actually found a light gray Hart Schaffner Marx gold trumpeter for $300 at filene's (although I think it may have the same styling issues as the Oxxford). Therefore, I'm not sure if this is where I should be dumping $800. Another option could be to buy the Hart Schaffner Marx, get it tailored, and then keep my eye out over the next few months for a charcoal chalk stripe zegna at discount and then buy one full price in a couple of months if I haven't found anything (really couldn't afford both right now and the light grey is better for spring/summer).

Any thoughts on this? By the way, I work in a conservative busness setting.
 

NavyStyles

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If you're having second thoughts, I would suggest against dropping $800 on the suit. You said you had been in search of a light grey, so I'd go with that. Good luck with the final decision -- and welcome to the Style Forum.
 

matadorpoeta

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don't buy it if it's not exactly what you want.

btw, there are several on this forum who 'detest' oxxford, despite all the handwork.
 

Pierrepont

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I think Houston put the same post on AskAndy and got the opposite response of Matador's.  The view there was that he should grab the Oxxford and have a tailor shape it to his body.  This raises an interesting question:  How much can a tailor do to change the basic silhouette of a suit?  I think there are limits to what even the best tailor can do.
 

kabert

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I'm not sure how anyone can possibly "detest" Oxxford, as noted in one of the above posts. If someone is a fan of the Armani-type "bold" silhouette, wide cut/huge shoulder pads, he will not favor the Oxxford style. The Oxxford cut is classic; the fabrics beautiful; the styles timeless. But, you should love the suit before dropping $800, even if it's 50% off (or more). If you like a more structured look, such as Armani or Versace, then Oxxford may not be to your liking. (On the other hand, a good tailor can increase or decrease the size of shoulder pads in a jacket.) By the way, I'm not a fan of hart/shaffer/marx -- they seem rather ordinary, in general, to me.
 

VMan

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I think Houston put the same post on AskAndy and got the opposite response of Matador's. Â The view there was that he should grab the Oxxford and have a tailor shape it to his body. Â This raises an interesting question: Â How much can a tailor do to change the basic silhouette of a suit? Â I think there are limits to what even the best tailor can do.
This is what a skilled tailor can do to change a suit without altering the shape, from my understanding: - Alter sleeves, but not drastically - Alter inseam and waist, but not excessively - Alter jacket waist up to 1.5" A skilled tailor may be able to change the chest up to an inch, but the jacket is at risk of loosing it's 'ballance'.
 

NavyStyles

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But, you should love the suit before dropping $800, even if it's 50% off (or more).
Always remember that -- even with a sale -- you'd be paying 50% of the original price for something you might not need (or want, as the case may be).
 

friendlyone

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This is a difficult one. If you don't like the cut of a suit, you won't wear it. And the thought that you can alter the cut of the Oxxford radically is just a fantasy.

But equally until you buy something of quality (i.e., not an Armani), you will never begin to understand clothing.

My suggestion would be to go to a high end store, try on all the best names, and see which one has cuts that you like. Then try to find that brand, in your size, on Ebay...or at Filenes Basement.
 

houston

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I think I should first clarify that I'm a fan of the zegna style more than the armani. I also really like how some hickey freemans fall on me. The oxxford just seems pretty sacklike, but perhaps nipping it in a little is all it needs. The lapels also seem just a bit long and wide. I know oxxford has been coming out with some more forward leaning models, but I don't think this is one (anyone know anything about what the different models are?). I'm thinking I might buy it and get the tailor's opinion (30 day return policy). Thanks for the advice thus far.
 

NavyStyles

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That's a really handsome suit. I wouldn't mind having it for myself.
 

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