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Suit Lapel Puckering?

YoungBespoke

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Hi Styleforum family,

I recently just commissioned my first Bespoke Suit and was extremely happy with how it turned out. I wore it to my first event 4 days ago and was getting ready to wear it again for an upcoming event.

My host graciously offered to steam off some of the wrinkles away and since I'm just learning the world of Bespoke I quickly accepted. I did not realize that it might cause some damage.

I'm trying to educate myself as much as I can on the best way to care for my suits but there now seems to be some puckering in the lapels, correct me if I'm wrong but is this fixable? Thank you.


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breakaway01

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Never steam a suit, especially a bespoke suit. Unfortunately the steam has puckered the seams due to differential shrinkage of the stitching versus the fabric. In addition, if the suit is indeed bespoke and hand-made (not just custom) there may be iron work to selectively stretch and shrink parts of the jacket using steam and pressure. Steaming the jacket may undo that ironwork.

Best thing to do would be to send the suit back to your tailor for a proper pressing and reshaping, again assuming this is “true” bespoke
 

YoungBespoke

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Thanks for the reply. I am just learning all of this now so I really appreciate it. I'll be going back to my tailor and will be asking him if they can redo the iron work, is there usually any additional cost to this?

And in regards to the question, it is true bespoke, A paper pattern was made along with a full canvas. Thank you again!
Never steam a suit, especially a bespoke suit. Unfortunately the steam has puckered the seams due to differential shrinkage of the stitching versus the fabric. In addition, if the suit is indeed bespoke and hand-made (not just custom) there may be iron work to selectively stretch and shrink parts of the jacket using steam and pressure. Steaming the jacket may undo that ironwork.

Best thing to do would be to send the suit back to your tailor for a proper pressing and reshaping, again assuming this is “true” bespoke
 

YoungBespoke

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Also, will there be any permanent damage cause due to the steaming?
Thanks for the reply. I am just learning all of this now so I really appreciate it. I'll be going back to my tailor and will be asking him if they can redo the iron work, is there usually any additional cost to this?

And in regards to the question, it is true bespoke, A paper pattern was made along with a full canvas. Thank you again!
 

breakaway01

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No, a proper pressing should fix it, especially if there was no problem prior to the steaming. As for cost, it's between you and your tailor, but it's fairly common for relatively simple things like this to be addressed at no charge.
 

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