Suit jacket tailoring question

[insolentpup]

How much can a suit jacket be tailored before it is "ruined"?

Can one buy a jacket and tailor the shoulders, chest and sides or will this ruin the jacket? If not, shouldn't we all buy cheapish and get tailored rather than buying made-to-measure?

 

[MisterFu]

How much can a suit jacket be tailored before it is "ruined"?

Can one buy a jacket and tailor the shoulders, chest and sides or will this ruin the jacket? If not, shouldn't we all buy cheapish and get tailored rather than buying made-to-measure?

Generally speaking, shoulders (especially slope and the relationship to the chest and armhole stance and placement) are not substantially changeable through alterations. Sides can be taken in or let out, though this depends on the jacket and on more obviously patterned suits or jackets, it can cause pattern matching problems. There are very real limits to what can be done and to do advanced alterations requires a skilled tailor that many people, outside major metro areas, don't have access to (the tailors here can tell you more).

For some people, OTR with a few alterations will fit well and look great. Some of us, however, have dimensions that demand MTM (or bespoke) for a good fit. I do wear some heavily altered OTR stuff, but it never quite fits perfectly. Specifically, as I am tall, barrel chested with fairly broad sloped shoulders, nearly everything OTR has two big issues; at my chest size, OTR patterns assume a much larger mid-section than I have, which means I need substantial waist alterations and my shoulder slope means that, with OTR jackets, they need to add extra shoulder structure that tends to give my OTR stuff "frankenshoulders". No matter what, the alterations never allow the suit to move with my motions in a truly natural way (with collar gaping rearing its ugly head if I sit down and don't adjust my jacket, etc.).

In contrast, my MTM and bespoke stuff are made with my shoulders and chest in mind and, as a result, everything drapes nicely and stays in place regardless if I am reaching across the table, lounging on a sofa, shaking hands, doing jumping jacks, etc.

Also, if you are looking at cheapish you, by definition, are not looking at MTM (unless we are talking about internet MTM which I have no knowledge of). The equation for MTM (BB, Paul Stuart, RL MTM, etc.) is that if you are already dropping thousands of dollars for a suit and your measurements are such that it will need major alterations and probably never fit quite right, it makes sense to pay extra and get it MTM so that it does fit properly.

Just my 2cents.

 

[insolentpup]

Thanks for the detailed response. So basically people with really standard measurements can often get away with minor alterations on OTR clothes?

 

[MisterFu]

Thanks for the detailed response. So basically people with really standard measurements can often get away with minor alterations on OTR clothes?

Yes, I'd say many people are lucky enough to be able to wear OTR with just minor alterations and look very good doing so. However, there are degrees of fit and every body is different whereas OTR patterns are deigned to work within averages (like car seats). Even retail pattern based MTM has substantial limits to the exactness of fit which is why if you want the ultimate fit, you go bespoke where every aspect of the suit is built to a custom pattern designed exactly for your body. Additionally, different people have different tolerances for what they will pay for a good fit. Collar gaping drives me nuts and when I am trying to look my best, I simply will not tolerate it (and, as such, I am willing to pay to make sure it doesn't happen). Others may be willing to simply straighten their jacket from time to time or OTR jackets don't present this problem for them.

Key to all of this is understanding good fit and how well something fits you. As you are new to this, I would get your measurements and opinions from a reputable tailor and also look around SF's "What Are You Wearing" and "fit feedback" threads to get an idea of good fit because a lot of people get it very wrong nowadays.

Good luck...