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Suit Jacket Sizing 38 or 40

2008mbaer

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I am 6'0" 155'. Tall and lean. My chest size is around 38.

I bought a couple nice suits with 38R jackets and they fit pretty well, but are not perfect. 40Rs are definitely way to big in the shoulders and chest area and just way too wide in the waist.

The problem with the 38Rs is that I am noticing a slight bowing out along the middle part of the lapels.

I have gone to Field in Georgetown, DC to get some minor alterations on the jacket done and he obviously noticed the issue with the lapel. What he pointed out is that I more muscular on the front/upper chest area then most people. Obviously not a bad thing, but it definitely screws with the fitting of the jackets.

Since these were OTR/RTW suits, he wasn't sure how much he could manage this issue.

I find it nearly impossible to find 39Rs, especially since I get my suits at Off the Rack and Off Saks.

Does it make sense to get 40Rs and having Field cut them down to my size? I know it would be quite expensive, but I'm not sure of another option to get proper fitting suits other then getting them MTM or hoping to find 38Rs that are cut to my dimension.
 

theyare

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I have the same issues. For me I am told it's because my shoulders are broad. Makes the lapels of pretty much any 38R jacket bow out. I have found a few exceptions where the shoulders on the jacket are extremely soft which seems to help.

I have had tailors take out the upper back of a 38R a bit, but there's really very little they can do. I have thought about getting a 40R cut down but any one I have tried on is just way too huge and the pants would need to be taken in close to 4".
 

crpz32

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try 38 or 40 in different makes. I'm actually a 37, and noticed that some 36s fit me perfectly, whereas some other brand's 38s fit me perfectly. Accordingly, some 36s are WAY too tight, and some 38s are way too big. There's so much variation between makers you are bound to find a brand that fits you fine if you are staying with RTW.
 

2008mbaer

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I have also been told my shoulders are very broad, which resulted in a slight crease on the back of the jacket right below the collar. I am having this worked out by the tailor, but the bowing of the lapel is frustrating.
 

brokencycle

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The bowing is probably from too small of a jacket. Hickey Freeman makes a 39R. So there should be some at the rack/off fifth.

The crease in back is probably a collar roll - an easy fix.
 

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