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Suit jacket fit at bottom of jacket?

dc1976

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Hi, while I'm an avid reader of SF, this is my first post, so be gentle!

I recently purchased a suit that fits about as perfectly as any I've ever tried on, with the exception of the very bottom of the jacket. While the torso and waist are very contoured and fit wonderfully, the bottom of the jacket beginning at the pockets fans out slightly, so that I can curl my fingers under the bottom of the jacket and they fit easily in the gap between the jacket and trousers.

I always thought that a well-fitting suit jacket should be flush with the trousers so there is a continuous line from the side of the jacket down the side of the trousers. However, I took it to a tailor who seemed somewhat flummoxed by what I was asking for. After it was pinned in slightly, there was still a gap and I said it needed to be brought in further so that it would be flush with the pants, and the tailor seemed to think this was odd. The suit is currently at the tailor's (I dropped it off two days ago) and I'm nervous that I made an odd request and the jacket will come back ruined by a tailor who doesn't understand what I'm looking for.

My question is this: how should the jacket fit at the bottom? Should it fan out slightly or should it fall in a continuous line with the trousers? Should I call the tailor in hopes that work has not begun and retrieve my suit, and take it elsewhere to a better tailor, or should I leave it as it is, fanning out slightly? As-is, it doesn't look at all bad, but it doesn't fall the way I understand that it should.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? I appreciate any feedback.
 

a tailor

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if the bottom of the jacket follows the trouser closely its going to cup in at the bottom.
thats because the bottom of the jacket is at a level below the widest part of your hip.
the line of the jacket sides should come straight down from the widest part of the hip.
there usually is a bit of space there. but it should not flare out.
 

dc1976

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Thanks so much for your reply. That's very helpful. So the side of the jacket should fall in a straight line (perpendicular to the floor) from the hip to the bottom of the jacket?
 

a tailor

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Originally Posted by dc1976
Thanks so much for your reply. That's very helpful. So the side of the jacket should fall in a straight line (perpendicular to the floor) from the hip to the bottom of the jacket?

thats right.
 

dc1976

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Originally Posted by a tailor
thats right.

Great. I will call the tailor first thing in the morning and hopefully they haven't started work so I can make sure they pin it correctly. Thanks again!
 

Despos

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There isn't a clear answer for this. Knowing your proportions is needed. If you have a relatively smaller hip/seat ratio to you chest, you will have a gap and that would be OK. You want to keep some balance of proportions of your upper body with the lower. Does the jacket have side vents, center or no vents? It could be a styling matter or just too full around your hips. That the jacket fit close at the hem may or may not be best, cannot know without seeing.
 

dc1976

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Originally Posted by Despos
There isn't a clear answer for this. Knowing your proportions is needed. If you have a relatively smaller hip/seat ratio to you chest, you will have a gap and that would be OK. You want to keep some balance of proportions of your upper body with the lower. Does the jacket have side vents, center or no vents? It could be a styling matter or just too full around your hips. That the jacket fit close at the hem may or may not be best, cannot know without seeing.

I have somewhat broad chest and shoulders, with some "V" down my torso, but not to an extreme degree. The jacket has side vents. It fits very well in the shoulders, chest and torso and contours inward nicely from the chest to the waist, then back out at the hips. Unfortunately I can't take a picture since the suit is at the tailor, where I am panicking that it is being ruined as we speak.
 

Despos

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No worries, ask the tailor if he thinks you are doing the right thing, ask him if you can retry the jacket to be sure. If he does reduce the skirt of the jacket, ask that he doesn't cut the excess cloth out so you have future options. The jacket could have a touch of flare at the skirt and not be "wrong".
 

dc1976

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Excellent idea! Thanks. I'm not as concerned about it being wrong as I am with the cut being as good as it can be. For an off-the-rack suit, the rest of it is excellent and I want this area to meet that standard as much as it can.
 

dc1976

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Just an update: I called the tailor this morning and work had not yet begun on the suit, so I asked them to go ahead with cuffing the pants, but to hold off on the jacket. I'm going to retrieve the jacket when I pick up the pants this week and I will take a picture to post here, if you'd be so kind as to offer your thoughts when you see it. Thanks!
 

dc1976

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I retrieved the suit today with no alterations made to the jacket. I had to take the picture in a mirror but did so raising my arms as little as possible so you can see how the suit falls naturally. The jacket fits nicely in the shoulders and from the armpits down the sides, but as you can see fans out slightly at the bottom (it's a little more obvious in reality than in the picture). I appreciate any thoughts you may have.

 

kohelet

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Originally Posted by a tailor
if the bottom of the jacket follows the trouser closely its going to cup in at the bottom.
thats because the bottom of the jacket is at a level below the widest part of your hip.
the line of the jacket sides should come straight down from the widest part of the hip.
there usually is a bit of space there. but it should not flare out.


a tailor, I am assuming you're only speaking about men who for better lack of word, have a small gluteous maximus....
 

kohelet

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Originally Posted by dc1976
I retrieved the suit today with no alterations made to the jacket. I had to take the picture in a mirror but did so raising my arms as little as possible so you can see how the suit falls naturally. The jacket fits nicely in the shoulders and from the armpits down the sides, but as you can see fans out slightly at the bottom (it's a little more obvious in reality than in the picture). I appreciate any thoughts you may have.



Sleeves are too long. Jacket looks great!
 

dc1976

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Originally Posted by kohelet
Sleeves are too long. Jacket looks great!


Yeah I know about the sleeves. That's pretty straightforward.

I wish I could have gotten a better picture of the bottom of the jacket - honestly it doesn't look that bad in the picture, but it's definitely noticeable to the point of looking ill-fitting.
 

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