Suit jacket alteration

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by esvoboda, May 18, 2005.

  1. esvoboda

    esvoboda Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2004
    Location:
    Virginia
    [​IMG] I bought this Harris Tweed jacket in 1989 and wore it off and on for about a year. I've had it in storage ever since. It's like new. The brand is Broadmoor & Pike which I believe is a Nordstrom house label. It has survived several mass editings of my wardrobe. For whatever reason, it's never made my "donate or sell on eBay" list until now. I decided to put it on one last time. I think what bugs me is the lapels. They seem pretty wide. Also, I believe the gorge--I think that's what it's called--is too low. This jacket will keep you warm but all that space in front keeps it from being practical. I began to play around with the lapels, rolling them and holding them in place while looking in the mirror. I had an idea. What if the lapels were rolled differently and another buttonhole and button added? In other words, what if I had this jacket tailored to become a three-button jacket? The sleeves seem somewhat full too. What do you think? Get rid of this jacket or put some money into alterations and keep it? By the way, I'm 5'10" and 170 lbs. I've got on some relaxed fit (ack.) jeans in the photo that I don't normally wear except to clean house like right now or wash the car. Imagine something like darker Paper Denim LTD's instead. Oh, and not a green t-shirt. [Sorry about the poor subject line. I clicked submit by accident and am not able to edit the subject. If a mod wants to edit the subject, feel free to do so.]
     


  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,686
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2004
    If you can't live with how it looks, give it away -- that alteration will cost at least $100, and you'd have to get a very skilled tailor.

    I don't the button stance (gorge refers to the "notch" between the lapel and collar) is all that low, however. And the lapels aren't all that wide. It isn't modern, but it doesn't look too terribly dated, FWIW. You should be wearing that coat to keep you warm. Wear a sweater under it and it'll be fine.
     


  3. esvoboda

    esvoboda Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2004
    Location:
    Virginia
    Thanks, jn3. That's good input. I like the idea of the sweater. Perfect for a summer in San Francisco, haha. I'll forget about alterations.

    I've had this jacket so long that it's hard for me to see it objectively. It's not terribly dated then? Perhaps it's just rather conservative, that's all.
     


  4. JBZ

    JBZ Senior member

    Messages:
    2,281
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2003
    I think the jacket looks like it fits you pretty well. The only thing I might change from a fit perspective is to shorten the left sleeve a little.

    However, whether or not the jacket is your "style" only you can judge. I agree that it's conservative, but it's Harris Tweed, so that's kind of to be expected.
     


  5. esvoboda

    esvoboda Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2004
    Location:
    Virginia
    I just put the jacket on again and looked in the mirror. The jacket was crooked on me in the photo. My fault. With the jacket straightened out, the sleeves come out even. Thank you JBZ for the reassurance about the fit. This was my first sportcoat purchase. I got it when I was still an acne-faced late teenager. I recall having it altered at the time of purchase to bring in the waist a tad. So, maybe it's not so bad.

    You know what? I'm going to keep this jacket around as a challenge to see if I can come up with some stylish (not necessarily "fashionable") ways to wear it. If anyone has any ideas, feel free to chime in.
     


  6. boston

    boston Senior member

    Messages:
    127
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2005
    I think the jacket is fine. It's not super fashionable, but it's a tweedy jacket.

    I don't think it's worth the $$$ to alter it -- the final test is if you wear it or not. If you do, keep it. If you don't, flip it.

    -boston
     


  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    34,582
    Likes Received:
    12,140
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    Done. If you want another subject line, just PM me, and I'll change it tomorrow (going home now.)
     


  8. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

    Messages:
    6,447
    Likes Received:
    73
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    Brooklyn USA
    Perfectly serviceable, classic enough.

    Only you know how it fits into your style.

    Even when worn in a balanced way [I can see that the skirt on one side is lower than the other] the sleeves might be a wee bit long, perhaps worth altering. Or not.
     


  9. trogdor

    trogdor Senior member

    Messages:
    521
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2005
    Location:
    The People's Republic of Cork
    I think it looks pretty good as is. It might look a bit weird with a third button added; the tweed already makes it quite "chunky" and a higher closure might make it look too constricted around the chest. Try wearing it with a blue small checked shirt and a flat cap for the "English farmer" look: [​IMG]
     


  10. Charley

    Charley Senior member

    Messages:
    2,612
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2005
    Location:
    Senior VP - Follies and Gewgaws
    I'm still a tweed type of person.
    That fabric is not as fashionable now - everyone wears the "year round" weights, whatever that is.
    I very much like the fit, except that the lapels sweep differently on the left and on the right. The line of the lapel on you r left side (right in the pic) is much better - in my view. Check with your tailor and see if the collar needs to be shortened so that it hangs from your neck and it may not do that. That may also tighten the shoulders and the chest just a bit. And could cause the spread between the panels of the skirt to open just a little. All of those would be slightly beneficial - again, just in my view.

    Tweeds are absolutely perfect for the proper, fall / winter, situation. I've just bought a few distinctive tweed patterns that will be casually used in those times of the year. The general idea is that they will look good and pair with many colors of tie and trousers.
     


  11. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

    Messages:
    503
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2002
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Tweed is cool and this one almost does it for me.

    There is something wrong though - the lapels and gorge are relatively timeless but the roll of the lapels is not very graceful. You could perhaps try to liven up the lapels by steaming them with a clothes steamer so they don't lie as flat.

    B
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by