Suit Help - athletic build

[MountainTech]

I need some help finding a new suit. I have an athletic build and have always worn Brooks Bros regent fit in 39R. They fit me perfectly with a little bit of alteration and I could consistently order them online when they went on sale, and I knew they'd fit. I recently went into a Brooks Bros store, and tried on the same exact model and size I normally wear, but the pants were skin tight in the thighs and crotch. I didn't gain weight and my old suits (that are the exact same size) fit fine. The sales person said Brooks Bros' new owner is trying to make them more modern and European (whatever that means...) and have altered the fit of the pants. So now I can't order online without hoping I am getting an older model suit with normal fitting pants.

So I am in the market for a new suit brand. My only options are some local traditional menswear stores that sell full price Coppley and Jack Victor for around $1000, a higher end store that sells Samuhelson (models starting at $1500), Zenga, Kiton, etc. (way more than I want too spend) and then the normal department stores like Nordstrom who sells Canali.

I like more of an Italian cut with broader shoulders and a tight waist, and higher armholes. The Coppley and JV I tried on seem to be more boxy with a lot of room in the sides of the chest and arms. I tried on a Canali and it felt amazing, but I'm loathe to spend $1700 on a single suit. I've also ruled out buying anything online that I can't first try on in a store and get altered locally. I'm sort of hard to fit given my athletic build, and have never had luck buying stuff online.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Is it worth buying a Copley at full price or a Canali?

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Normally I would say that if it fits and you like it, then you should buy it. Of course price is always a concern, but when you have specific needs there's always a trade off.

I don't know where you live, but Samuelsohn is actually a pretty good deal. If the store that sells Samuelsohn can do made to measure, it's something to consider.

Also keep in mind, there's no "Italian cut". What you're describing sounds like a Roman shoulder. I say that because a Neapolitan style is different.