Trapp
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2008
- Messages
- 1,663
- Reaction score
- 87
I have a question about fit and quality.
Today I found a nice looking charcoal grey suit in a consignment store. It was made by Hickey Freeman and was originally sold out of the Peter Elliot store in New York. I'd been trying to find a charcoal suit for some time and, lo and behold, the jacket fit like a glove. The shoulders and chest were perfect, the lapels were simple, elegant (on the narrow side...which I like), and subtly pick stitched. It was double-vented, the proper length, and it had high arm holes that felt comfortable and looked great. It was a three-button with the top button rolled. If I bought it, my tailor might find something small to refine, but there was no bulge in the back of the neck, it had a slim profile, and even the sleeve length seems perfect as is. I slipped it on, fastened the button, and it was like, click, this is what how a jacket should feel--and fit.
I'm not too familiar with Hickey Freeman, so I don't know if it was LTD or Mainline. I've just read up some on the boards and intend to use what I learned to find out tomorrow, as the store is holding the suit for me. The jacket was canvassed (half or full, I don't know. I just took a pinch between the jacket buttons.)
So, my question. When I removed the jacket I noticed the fabric was Loro Piana and it was super 130. The fabric had a soft feel and seemed a bit on the delicate side (I don't often wear suits; I spend more time in the streetwear forum, and the suits that I do have are a fairly coarse wool.) I checked the suit carefully; the fabric was a bit wrinkled on the pants, possibly from handling in the store, but the only flaw I could see was a subtle bit of sheen on an inch or so of the waist band that might have been caused by an iron or dry cleaning. This was hardly noticable and would be concealed by a belt as well as the jacket, but I wonder if it's an indication of the fabric's delicacy. I've been reading a lot of posts by members who have a low opinion of LP's suiting fabrics--so many that I'm now feeling a bit dissuaded. The store has listed the suit for $190 -- no remarkable steal. And while it's rare for me to find a jacket that fits so well, and that has so many of the features that I prefer, and that is so useful (a deep charcoal that was somehow very attractive, not boring), I don't want some piece of crap that will fall apart on the third or fourth wearing.
Incidentally, I do wear mostly streetwear, and would only wear this suit 1-3 times a month.
Finally, as this is germane to my decision, the trousers. They were flat-fronted with a nice slender cut down the legs--hard to find as someone whose budget inspires thrifting. The waist would need to be let out a lot though, maybe as much as 1.5" or even (to be safe) 2" (the front pockets pulled open when I buttoned the top.) In the seat, a touch snug. Nothing ridiculous, and given the clean fit of the suit as a whole I think the seat looked okay. In theory, there was enough extra fabric in both the waist and the 'seam in the seat' (not sure what you call that) to allow for adjustment, but I've had a few similar adjustments on odd pants done by my tailor with somewhat mixed results (one turned out great, another a bit iffy). I'm curious what people think. Should this be a deal-breaker? When I do wear suits, I never take the jacket off (i sweat so much i can't), and I'm inclined to think that as long as the trouser alteration comes out decent, if not perfect, it would not be noticed with the jacket on.
I decided to err in this post on the side of being thorough. Sorry it's so long, and if you made it this far, thank you. Wisdom, suggestions, guidance? On either the trouser situation or the quality (or lack thereof) of a Loro Piana super 130? There seems to be conflicting opinions about Loro Piana fabric, and I welcome comments from both camps.
Today I found a nice looking charcoal grey suit in a consignment store. It was made by Hickey Freeman and was originally sold out of the Peter Elliot store in New York. I'd been trying to find a charcoal suit for some time and, lo and behold, the jacket fit like a glove. The shoulders and chest were perfect, the lapels were simple, elegant (on the narrow side...which I like), and subtly pick stitched. It was double-vented, the proper length, and it had high arm holes that felt comfortable and looked great. It was a three-button with the top button rolled. If I bought it, my tailor might find something small to refine, but there was no bulge in the back of the neck, it had a slim profile, and even the sleeve length seems perfect as is. I slipped it on, fastened the button, and it was like, click, this is what how a jacket should feel--and fit.
I'm not too familiar with Hickey Freeman, so I don't know if it was LTD or Mainline. I've just read up some on the boards and intend to use what I learned to find out tomorrow, as the store is holding the suit for me. The jacket was canvassed (half or full, I don't know. I just took a pinch between the jacket buttons.)
So, my question. When I removed the jacket I noticed the fabric was Loro Piana and it was super 130. The fabric had a soft feel and seemed a bit on the delicate side (I don't often wear suits; I spend more time in the streetwear forum, and the suits that I do have are a fairly coarse wool.) I checked the suit carefully; the fabric was a bit wrinkled on the pants, possibly from handling in the store, but the only flaw I could see was a subtle bit of sheen on an inch or so of the waist band that might have been caused by an iron or dry cleaning. This was hardly noticable and would be concealed by a belt as well as the jacket, but I wonder if it's an indication of the fabric's delicacy. I've been reading a lot of posts by members who have a low opinion of LP's suiting fabrics--so many that I'm now feeling a bit dissuaded. The store has listed the suit for $190 -- no remarkable steal. And while it's rare for me to find a jacket that fits so well, and that has so many of the features that I prefer, and that is so useful (a deep charcoal that was somehow very attractive, not boring), I don't want some piece of crap that will fall apart on the third or fourth wearing.
Incidentally, I do wear mostly streetwear, and would only wear this suit 1-3 times a month.
Finally, as this is germane to my decision, the trousers. They were flat-fronted with a nice slender cut down the legs--hard to find as someone whose budget inspires thrifting. The waist would need to be let out a lot though, maybe as much as 1.5" or even (to be safe) 2" (the front pockets pulled open when I buttoned the top.) In the seat, a touch snug. Nothing ridiculous, and given the clean fit of the suit as a whole I think the seat looked okay. In theory, there was enough extra fabric in both the waist and the 'seam in the seat' (not sure what you call that) to allow for adjustment, but I've had a few similar adjustments on odd pants done by my tailor with somewhat mixed results (one turned out great, another a bit iffy). I'm curious what people think. Should this be a deal-breaker? When I do wear suits, I never take the jacket off (i sweat so much i can't), and I'm inclined to think that as long as the trouser alteration comes out decent, if not perfect, it would not be noticed with the jacket on.
I decided to err in this post on the side of being thorough. Sorry it's so long, and if you made it this far, thank you. Wisdom, suggestions, guidance? On either the trouser situation or the quality (or lack thereof) of a Loro Piana super 130? There seems to be conflicting opinions about Loro Piana fabric, and I welcome comments from both camps.
