Suit for skinny guy, $700USD and under with alterations

[causeandeffect]

Hi,

I have an approximately 5 year old Strellson suit that I have just tried on (after not having worn a suit in a couple of years) and while being described as slim fit, is still too big. Many alterations would be required, and the arm holes would still be too big, as well as the arms. Legs are too wide as well, same applies to the groin.

I need two suits for a business environment. I am 6 feet, 150 lbs, with a 29 inch waist and 36 inch chest. I look pretty skinny except for my chest, and people comment on this (I'm just pointing this out in case I don't sound that thin).

I am looking to purchase a dark navy suit, and a charcoal suit.

I really like the look of the fit of Burberry suits, if that is of any help.

I'm wondering if I should go off the rack and get alterations, or made to measure in person.

What are some alterations that are not worth doing, that if problematic enough to me if the suit were to remain as it is, would be worth not buying the suit? Shoulder fit for example? I hear that is a difficult alteration.

I need both of these by the beginning of September.

Recommendations for specific models of suits? Brands to avoid?

A fit like the above is what I would desire. (To clarify, given the post below; I'm referring more to the trimness, how tightly it fits his body.)


Thank you Styleforum. I've just purchased two pairs of AE Park Avenues so I'm beginning to try to put a bit more effort into my look.

 

[Maljunulo]

It's your choice, and your money, but I think both the jacket and the pants are too short. The jacket especially so.

Do not be distracted by fashion, what you seek is style. Fashion is transient and style endures.

You did ask.

ETA: I would look into MTM. I'm not sure you will find it in your price range, and you won't get luxury fabrics for that price, but you will get a suit that fits, and you will be able to control the important parameters, rather than be forced to pick through what is on the racks

Find a good men's store and ask before you make any other commitment or spend any money.

 

[causeandeffect]

Thank you for the tip. I'm fine getting a jacket that would have longer pants and a longer jacket if that seems to be the consensus here. I'm more concerned with how slim fitting the suit is. I don't like seeing extra material. I just want something that fits quite trim.


Edit,

I've seen Suit Supply mentioned around here. There is a store near me. What about going in there to get a made to measure?

 

[Tacosauce]

Made to measure will trump RTW in terms of fit and price.

My advice would be to goto a few stores, try on a bunch of suits and go for the one that fits the best regardless of brand.

If you find that nothing fits you perfectly, then the main part of the jacket that should fit is the shoulders. Most other parts of the jacket can be altered. Stay away from working button holes, they make sleeve length alterations difficult and expensive. Proper length is also important on the jacket since you are taller.

For the pants, medium rise is preferred in regards to fit and comfort.

Cheers

 

[causeandeffect]

Made to measure will trump RTW in terms of fit and price.

My advice would be to goto a few stores, try on a bunch of suits and go for the one that fits the best regardless of brand.

If you find that nothing fits you perfectly, then the main part of the jacket that should fit is the shoulders. Most other parts of the jacket can be altered. Stay away from working button holes, they make sleeve length alterations difficult and expensive. Proper length is also important on the jacket since you are taller.

For the pants, medium rise is preferred in regards to fit and comfort.

Cheers

So despite MTM fitting better, you'd suggest a RTW with alterations? Due to price?

My Strellson fits fine in the shoulders, but would require perhaps 5+ alterations including the pants and jacket.

I figured it would perhaps be safer to buy a new RTW suit that fit better than my Strellson and then have fewer, more minor alterations made. Rather than make alterations to my Strellson which may be more likely to turn out poorly due to the number and extent of each desired alteration.

Is it tricky to bring in the groin?

Basicall my Strellson needs a tighter waist in the jacket, upper back, lower back, waist of pants, tighter groin area, trimmer legs, slightly shorter pants.

I would still be slightly disatissfied with the larger size of the armholes though, and the width of the sleeves, which I understand are troublesome alterations (at least the arm hole issue).

Edit, by working button holes do you mean any button holes in the sleeves? Or any button holes anywhere? Or just button holes that have buttons attached?

Thank you Taco

 

[breakaway01]

At your price point and short time frame MTM is too risky. Inexpensive MTM ( roughly <$900-1000) often looks far worse than RTW and chances are you won't get it done by beginning of Sept. although MTM is in theory better for those with unusual proportions, in practice it requires skill to decide what alterations need to be made to the standard block patterns each maker uses. This is where inexpensive MTM fails. Online MTM where you send in measurements only is very risky.

I'd strongly recommend starting with RTW. No harm in trying Suitsupply--just be aware that the sales reps will try to get you into something too small. If you have an alterations tailor you trust, you can always ask about your Strellson. I'd be concerned about the upper back and 'tightening the groin'. Not sure what you mean by the latter--do you mean shortening the rise or making the trousers narrower at the hips?

 

[causeandeffect]

At your price point and short time frame MTM is too risky. Inexpensive MTM ( roughly <$900-1000) often looks far worse than RTW and chances are you won't get it done by beginning of Sept. although MTM is in theory better for those with unusual proportions, in practice it requires skill to decide what alterations need to be made to the standard block patterns each maker uses. This is where inexpensive MTM fails. Online MTM where you send in measurements only is very risky.

I'd strongly recommend starting with RTW. No harm in trying Suitsupply--just be aware that the sales reps will try to get you into something too small. If you have an alterations tailor you trust, you can always ask about your Strellson. I'd be concerned about the upper back and 'tightening the groin'. Not sure what you mean by the latter--do you mean shortening the rise or making the trousers narrower at the hips?

Yes, shortening the rise.

I also mean that there is too much material right below my groin in the thigh area. Basically there is very little of a gap in between my legs.

Edit, is it difficult to alter the upper back of a suit? The front almost looks fine, but from behind you can see that there is an incredible excess of material.

 

[breakaway01]

Shortening the rise may be problematic depending on how much you want to take off. Overall I think you are looking for a lot of alterations to your suit--could all be done if you have a good tailor though.

As far as the upper back goes, you could try pinning along the center back seam yourself to see if that helps. Honestly I'd just take the suit to a good alterations tailor for their opinion. They can pin it up for you to see.

 

[causeandeffect]

Actually the rise may be okay. I have tried pulling it up and it really won't go up very much. I think the whole legs just need to be trimmer, and perhaps the hips tighter.



Edit, do the Suit Supply stores have any mirrors configured so that I can see how the suit looks from behind, without having to contort my neck to look at only one mirror behind me? I'm concerned about not being able to determine how well it fits from behind.


Edit 2, are you able to recommend shirts for someone my size? I find that the bodies are always too large, and so are the arms around the biceps.

Thanks

 

[paxonus]

The more form fitting a suit, the more difficult it is to make it look good. This is the look you should be striving for--clean lines, no wrinkles. The closer it fits to your body, the more wrinkles you are likely to get. Personally, I prefer a little more material and less wrinkles.

 

[Maljunulo]

I agree with paxonus.

You don't want to look like your mother left your suit in the dryer too long.

I personally think that his jacket and pants could each be about an inch longer, but that's just me.

In my youth, I was a lot scrawnier than you are, so I sympathize. (Presently 6'0" and 160-165 lbs. in my dotage.)

 

[causeandeffect]

Are all Strellson suits fused?

If I need say 5 alterations done to my Strellson jacket and pants combined, am I better off perhaps just purchasing a new half canvas Suit Supply suit that would require fewer alterations?

Thanks

 

[lestyr3]

I was in a pretty similar situation to you once. It was so liberating to - for the first time in my life - have clothes that fit me.

Here's what I did, when I didn't know much and I didn't have much time:

1. Figure out using the Strellson and a tape measure what your shoulder measurement is, how long you want the jacket, and roughly what your waist size is.
2. Look at a few online stores (many of whom have links on the right, like eHaberdasher, that's what I used) where they sell items at a steep discount. Be ruthless and only deal in what fits your measurements, leaving at least $100 for tailoring in your budget, and find what you like best. Don't worry about whether you've heard of them or not, in fact your better deals are likely to be on brands you've probably never heard of (like Belvest). For your frame, I'd look mainly at Italian or British outfits. Obtain that.
3. Go into the nicest local menswear shop you can find, and ask who does alterations for them. Show up at their place, wearing dress shoes. Pay whatever it takes (you're paying for their eye), listen to their styling advice, and if in doubt be conservative.

I think this is your best step in the right direction. You won't get it 100% right...but then nobody really does.

 

[causeandeffect]

I was in a pretty similar situation to you once. It was so liberating to - for the first time in my life - have clothes that fit me.

Here's what I did, when I didn't know much and I didn't have much time:

1. Figure out using the Strellson and a tape measure what your shoulder measurement is, how long you want the jacket, and roughly what your waist size is.
2. Look at a few online stores (many of whom have links on the right, like eHaberdasher, that's what I used) where they sell items at a steep discount. Be ruthless and only deal in what fits your measurements, leaving at least $100 for tailoring in your budget, and find what you like best. Don't worry about whether you've heard of them or not, in fact your better deals are likely to be on brands you've probably never heard of (like Belvest). For your frame, I'd look mainly at Italian or British outfits. Obtain that.
3. Go into the nicest local menswear shop you can find, and ask who does alterations for them. Show up at their place, wearing dress shoes. Pay whatever it takes (you're paying for their eye), listen to their styling advice, and if in doubt be conservative.

I think this is your best step in the right direction. You won't get it 100% right...but then nobody really does.

Thank you for the information. I decided to go with Suit Supply, but I am glad to learn about eHaberdasher. I will look into them.

 

[once a day]

Thank you for the information. I decided to go with Suit Supply, but I am glad to learn about eHaberdasher. I will look into them.

Just to check, are you still looking for slim fit suits?