Suit for "portly" men under $1000

[SJTrance]

I was looking for a suit built for a chubby guy. I'm generally a 42R (with Armani Collz.) or 44R (with Zegna). I will include a picture to get the idea...keep the flaming to a minimum for God's sake...lol.

 

[mack11211]

Where are you in the country? Or where can you get to?

Some stores, like Barneys, stock a very wide range of sizes.

 

[SJTrance]

I'm in Manhattan. I will try Barneys. I wonder if their sale is still going on.

 

[Mookie]

Since when is it hard to find a suit in 44R?

 

[SJTrance]

It's not hard. I was wondering what type of suit would do well with my build. I think that withe my pudge in the middle, the slim fit suits are going to be too much for me. Should I be looking for Athletic fit suits? Are there any specific types you guys can recommend?

 

[JordanB]

Go to Mr. Ned. Custom fit for under $1000. www.mrnednyc.com

 

[SJTrance]

Jordan B!!!!!! That is perfect! I shall surely get this. I had no idea that custom suits were so cheap to get. I was under the impression that they would cost much more than that. Awesome!

 

[haganah]

I really don't think you are portly. I was expecting someone 300 pounds. I would also think Oxxford and I think they are (or already had) their sale.

 

[Mr. Potato]

You don't seem all that portly going by suit standards. You can always alter the waist on slimmer fitting suits to fit your body. Getting portly suits will probably be too big for you, and you will still have to alter them.

Though by slim, I wouldn't go Dior slim with painted on pants for your body type.

 

[Mookie]

Originally Posted by SJTrance

It's not hard. I was wondering what type of suit would do well with my build. I think that withe my pudge in the middle, the slim fit suits are going to be too much for me. Should I be looking for Athletic fit suits? Are there any specific types you guys can recommend?

Your problem is that you're basing your sizing off of your Armani and Zegna suits. Neither of them are the most fully cut suits ever, to put it mildly, which is why you think you need a "portly" suit.

You don't. Check out suits that are a bit more fully cut in the design. Good labels for this are Brooks Brothers (Madison 1818; depending on just how round you're going the Regent fit should be fine as well); Hickey Freedman; Burberry (made by HF in the USA); and (only on deep discount) Boss Black Label (maybe).

Of course, there's also the custom route; not being in NY, I can't give you any hints there, although others do like Mr. Ned's.

 

[SJTrance]

Thanks guys...another question: What exactly is an athletic cut and how does that differ from slim fit?

 

[johnny_flapjack]

I think an "Athletic Cut" suit just has an extra 2" drop between the coat an pants. Standard drop is 7 inches (depending on the suit maker - the brooks brothers cord suit I got during the Doc Holliday-induced frenzy only had a 5" drop and I think Hickey Freeman uses a 6" drop) , and I think athletic is 9".

Like I need to say this, but I'm sure there's someone with more experience that will correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[Mark Seitelman]

You probably don't need a portly.

I would recommend a traditional, full-cut suit with a little shaping. Try Brooks, J. Press, and Paul Stuart.

You might try a MTM at either Mr. Ned or LS Mens Clothes.

Good luck.

 

[nsoltz]

I think I can relate somewhat to what you are seeking. I wear a US 41 by jacket size but have a 36-37" waist and a slightly larger tush in proportion. I find that I can wear a European 52 in Zegna or even Isaia but letting out pants and easing out jacket just a trifle. e54 pants actually fit better and that's what Zegna did in a MTM suit. But there is generally enough room in a 52. In some boxy BB and HF cuts, I can actually wear a 40 and just let out the pants. So, I don't think you need portly at all-- just the right cut. And even within different lines, there are different cuts. Tried on one of the new Zegna Milano models Sunday and the pants (flat front) were just too tight and I would need to go MTM in that. The old boxy Roma cut works perfectly.

 

[SJTrance]

My chest size is 42 and my waist size is around 36 or 38. That makes for a pretty boxy figure. But there's good advise in this thread. Thanks, guys.