Suit Fit Question

[brooklyn]

From what I understand you always leave the bottom button undone on you suit jacket. When I do this the suit jacket spreads exposing the bottom of my tie and shirt. This happens on my 2button and 3button suits. Is this normal?

 

[MilanoStyle]

post pic. then people on this forum will let you know what the problem may bb.

 

[alchimiste]

When you unbutton the bottom button the jacket should not spread wide open. It may open a bit though.

 

[j]

You probably need more room in the skirt (butt area) of the jacket. If it fits right the bottom button should remain in nearly the same position as if it were closed - never open enough to show what's underneath. The only other possibility is if your pants are way too low. This is part of the reason why suit pants should fit pretty high in most cases. An inch or so below your navel for a classic cut suit.

 

[lisapop]

This is possibly due to a combination of the jacket being a bit too short and a result of your posture.  If you carry yourself with your shoulders extra straight, this could force the front of your jacket outward and cause the bottom of the jacket to open.  This happens with some of my jackets.  In any case, the bottom of your jacket should be flat and reasonably closed.
Grayson

 

[Lydia]

Though I would never break this holy rule about the second button (the flesh on my hands would wither away), I am totally sick of it. It has looked fine buttoned on the rare moments I've tried it in front of the mirror. But this is one rule that you will look like a total chump if you break.

 

[alchimiste]

Though I would never break this holy rule about the second button (the flesh on my hands would wither away), I am totally sick of it. It has looked fine buttoned on the rare moments I've tried it in front of the mirror. But this is one rule that you will look like a total chump if you break.

I agree that this must be one of the most arbitrary rules. Recently I've seen a bunch of people w/ 3b suits and all 3 buttons were buttonned... it looked awful, the suit was completely flat (may be bad suits to start with, though).
And yes if you break this rule you will look like a dork, whereas if you break some others you can look like (believe you are) a trendsetter.

Mathieu

 

[Manton]

This is one "rule" that at least has some tincture of rationality behind it. A jacket is a fluid thing. A properly cut waist and properly set waist button act as a fulcrum for the movement of the coat. If you button other buttons (with the exception of the long roll DB, which can be buttoned at the bottom only to good effect) you will freeze the coat in place at the chest or hips or both, causing it to buckle and wrinkle and pull in unsightly ways, wear less comfortably, and just generally look stiff as opposed to "fluid."

 

[brooklyn]

When you unbutton the bottom button the jacket should not spread wide open. It may open a bit though.

The jacket does not spread WIDE open, just a bit. I think it is a combination of bad posture and a long upper body.

I will try to take some pics and post them

 

[Manton]

There is another possible explanation here, which is that your suit jacket was cut deliberately with what are called "open quarters," which is to say, the front edges below the waist button are meant to form a sort of Christmas tree shape. Â A lot of Italian makers cut their suits this way. Â I tend to think it looks better with higher rise trousers, to avoid exactly the issue you mention. Â But the Neapolitans often pair open-quartered jackets with low-rise trousers, and it looks good on them. Â But they wear long ties with wide front blades, and that generally is enough to cover any shirt and trouser waistband.

 

[alchimiste]

So Manton why do we still wear 2b suit instead of 1b? A 2b suit is somewhat a faux 2b, same as some 3b suits which are merely 2b suits w/ an extra button. Mathieu

 

[lisapop]

I think it is a combination of bad posture and a long upper body.  

As someone who's a bit long in the torso, too, my posture "issue" is one of exceedingly *good* posture, which might actually be your issue, too.  In order to get the full length of my upper body straight, I pull my shoulders back (ram-rod, as some might say) in a manner that would make any drill sergeant proud.  In doing so, I'm pulling the entire length of the jacket up slightly, and causing the bottom openings to flare open.  If your chest is developed at all, this could further exacerbate things.  To correct this, my jackets are cut slightly longer to compensate.  Ironically, slumping (i.e. bad posture) could result in your jacket bottoms actually closing.
Grayson

 

[Manton]

I dunno. Tradition, I guess. Why do lapels still have a left buttonhole even though the button closure under the collar is long gone? Why do jackets still have lapels even though we never close them around our midsections any more? Why do city suit trousers have cuffs, even though we don't wear them to tromp through country mud?

Clothing details are basically irrational. Not entirely, but mostly.

 

[alchimiste]

Why do lapels still have a left buttonhole even though the button closure under the collar is long gone?

Boutonniere for a flower or things like the legion d'honneur. May be marginally useful but it is not completely useless.

Why do jackets still have lapels even though we never close them around our midsections any more?

Remove them and the jacket looks completely different (not the case of the bottom button).

Why do city suit trousers have cuffs, even though we don't wear them to tromp through country mud?

They add weight.

 

[lisapop]

Quite right--Cuffs produce a much more elegant "hang" to trousers owing to the added weight.
Grayson