Suit Fit Question

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by brooklyn, Apr 13, 2005.

  1. brooklyn

    brooklyn Senior member

    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2005
    From what I understand you always leave the bottom button undone on you suit jacket. When I do this the suit jacket spreads exposing the bottom of my tie and shirt. This happens on my 2button and 3button suits. Is this normal?
     


  2. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

    Messages:
    1,674
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2004
    post pic. then people on this forum will let you know what the problem may bb.
     


  3. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2005
    Location:
    a fine country
    When you unbutton the bottom button the jacket should not spread wide open. It may open a bit though.
     


  4. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

    Messages:
    14,914
    Likes Received:
    93
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    You probably need more room in the skirt (butt area) of the jacket. If it fits right the bottom button should remain in nearly the same position as if it were closed - never open enough to show what's underneath. The only other possibility is if your pants are way too low. This is part of the reason why suit pants should fit pretty high in most cases. An inch or so below your navel for a classic cut suit.
     


  5. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

    Messages:
    534
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2005
    This is possibly due to a combination of the jacket being a bit too short and a result of your posture.  If you carry yourself with your shoulders extra straight, this could force the front of your jacket outward and cause the bottom of the jacket to open.  This happens with some of my jackets.  In any case, the bottom of your jacket should be flat and reasonably closed.
    Grayson
     


  6. Lydia

    Lydia Senior member

    Messages:
    141
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Though I would never break this holy rule about the second button (the flesh on my hands would wither away), I am totally sick of it. It has looked fine buttoned on the rare moments I've tried it in front of the mirror. But this is one rule that you will look like a total chump if you break.
     


  7. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2005
    Location:
    a fine country
    I agree that this must be one of the most arbitrary rules. Recently I've seen a bunch of people w/ 3b suits and all 3 buttons were buttonned... it looked awful, the suit was completely flat (may be bad suits to start with, though).
    And yes if you break this rule you will look like a dork, whereas if you break some others you can look like (believe you are) a trendsetter.

    Mathieu
     


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    This is one "rule" that at least has some tincture of rationality behind it. A jacket is a fluid thing. A properly cut waist and properly set waist button act as a fulcrum for the movement of the coat. If you button other buttons (with the exception of the long roll DB, which can be buttoned at the bottom only to good effect) you will freeze the coat in place at the chest or hips or both, causing it to buckle and wrinkle and pull in unsightly ways, wear less comfortably, and just generally look stiff as opposed to "fluid."
     


  9. brooklyn

    brooklyn Senior member

    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2005
    The jacket does not spread WIDE open, just a bit. I think it is a combination of bad posture and a long upper body.

    I will try to take some pics and post them
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    There is another possible explanation here, which is that your suit jacket was cut deliberately with what are called "open quarters," which is to say, the front edges below the waist button are meant to form a sort of Christmas tree shape. Â A lot of Italian makers cut their suits this way. Â I tend to think it looks better with higher rise trousers, to avoid exactly the issue you mention. Â But the Neapolitans often pair open-quartered jackets with low-rise trousers, and it looks good on them. Â But they wear long ties with wide front blades, and that generally is enough to cover any shirt and trouser waistband.
     


  11. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2005
    Location:
    a fine country
    So Manton why do we still wear 2b suit instead of 1b? A 2b suit is somewhat a faux 2b, same as some 3b suits which are merely 2b suits w/ an extra button. Mathieu
     


  12. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

    Messages:
    534
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2005
    As someone who's a bit long in the torso, too, my posture "issue" is one of exceedingly *good* posture, which might actually be your issue, too.  In order to get the full length of my upper body straight, I pull my shoulders back (ram-rod, as some might say) in a manner that would make any drill sergeant proud.  In doing so, I'm pulling the entire length of the jacket up slightly, and causing the bottom openings to flare open.  If your chest is developed at all, this could further exacerbate things.  To correct this, my jackets are cut slightly longer to compensate.  Ironically, slumping (i.e. bad posture) could result in your jacket bottoms actually closing.
    Grayson
     


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I dunno. Tradition, I guess. Why do lapels still have a left buttonhole even though the button closure under the collar is long gone? Why do jackets still have lapels even though we never close them around our midsections any more? Why do city suit trousers have cuffs, even though we don't wear them to tromp through country mud?

    Clothing details are basically irrational. Not entirely, but mostly.
     


  14. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2005
    Location:
    a fine country
    Boutonniere for a flower or things like the legion d'honneur. May be marginally useful but it is not completely useless.
    Remove them and the jacket looks completely different (not the case of the bottom button).
    They add weight.
     


  15. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

    Messages:
    534
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2005
    Quite right--Cuffs produce a much more elegant "hang" to trousers owing to the added weight.
    Grayson
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by