Suit Fit Critique Thread - noob

[jcriswel]

Originally Posted by teeo

^ yup, thanks ill definitely read that.
I didnt know there were large, regular and small sizes for coats.. i thought it was just a number i.e. 38, 40, 42, etc.

in reference to my picture, how much shorter should the actual jacket length be? i thought it was alright length, but hearing from you guys it should be shorter? and could someone please elaborate about what one of the members said about how the back doesnt drape properly.
also harry lean you mentioned that the collar was no good. could someone please explain to me whats wrong with it as it looks fine to a noob like me.

thanks guys. learning a lot here.

Please look at this.

The length of your jacket should complement your silhouette... it really depends on proportions. Your jacket should not consume more than half the distance between the bottom of your shoes and the top of your collar. I think you said that your height is 173 cm (5' 8"). If you allow about 18 cms (7") for the height of your head and neck then the rest of your body should be about 155 cms (61"). The rule of thumb is to divide that distance in half and that is the length of your jacket. In this case, the length should be 77.5 cm (30 1/2"). You can see from mfoofan's picture that his jacket is just slightly longer than half of the distance from the top of his collar to the bottom of his shoes.

These proportions change if you have a long torso and short legs. It appears from your pictures that you might have short legs relative to the vertical size of your torso. If that is the situation, you must compensate with an even shorter jacket to offset this feature of your silhouette.

Even though you think your height (173 cm/5' 8") is a "regular", your short legs might dictate that you purchase jackets in a "short" size. Jackets in a "short" length typically measure around 75 cm - 77.5 cm (29 1/2" - 30 1/2'). They should be no longer.

The link provided to you earlier explains all of this.

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

Well i'm not sure what size you are, but for example right now there is a Ralph Lauren Purple label suit in the B&S forum for $800

You can visit a ralph lauren store and buy a Made in Italy Polo suit 60% off retail right now and they'll be in the $500 range.

they retail $1200+

thats what i would do in the $500-$700 range

my brother is 5'8" and athletic, he wears a 38S.

I put a tape measure on the screen to get a feel for the proportions, and i think 1" or 1.5" shorter in the jacket would do it.

 

[teeo]

thanks jcriswel, your explanation and link helped alot.

skinnygoomba, is that in the US? im in AUS, not sure if they have that sale going on here, will find out though, thanks.

 

[penguin vic]

Originally Posted by teeo

thanks jcriswel, your explanation and link helped alot.

skinnygoomba, is that in the US? im in AUS, not sure if they have that sale going on here, will find out though, thanks.

The RL 50% sale ended last Sunday.

 

[Harry Lean]

Dear Teeo

l was only in Australia for a few years. My only experience was bespoke and Brioni. l'm really sorry, l can't help you with the cheaper brands. l've got a suggestion. What if you go to that store that stocks Brioni. lf the $5,500 Brioni's fit you nice and you like them, why not buy a Brioni on ebay for only $1,000 and then get it tailored by an expert like American Tailorsn or Sarti Tailors. Have a $5,500 suit that will look like a perfect $7,000 suit on the outsdie. For only $1,400 all up. Think about it.

lf you want to look twice as good as Eddie Mc Guire in a suit, P.M me NOW!!!

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

Originally Posted by penguin vic

The RL 50% sale ended last Sunday.
maybe they still have suits marked down, its worth a call.

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

Originally Posted by Harry Lean

Dear Teeo

l was only in Australia for a few years. My only experience was bespoke and Brioni. l'm really sorry, l can't help you with the cheaper brands. l've got a suggestion. What if you go to that store that stocks Brioni. lf the $5,500 Brioni's fit you nice and you like them, why not buy a Brioni on ebay for only $1,000 and then get it tailored by an expert like American Tailorsn or Sarti Tailors. Have a $5,500 suit that will look like a perfect $7,000 suit on the outsdie. For only $1,400 all up. Think about it.

lf you want to look twice as good as Eddie Mc Guire in a suit, P.M me NOW!!!

+10000

this is how i do it, i buy jackets by Canali that i would otherwise not be able to afford, and have them tailored by a local tailor who does excellent work.

 

[teeo]

Originally Posted by Harry Lean

Dear Teeo l was only in Australia for a few years. My only experience was bespoke and Brioni. l'm really sorry, l can't help you with the cheaper brands. l've got a suggestion. What if you go to that store that stocks Brioni. lf the $5,500 Brioni's fit you nice and you like them, why not buy a Brioni on ebay for only $1,000 and then get it tailored by an expert like American Tailorsn or Sarti Tailors. Have a $5,500 suit that will look like a perfect $7,000 suit on the outsdie. For only $1,400 all up. Think about it. lf you want to look twice as good as Eddie Mc Guire in a suit, P.M me NOW!!!
i cant afford 1000 at the moment.. nor would i want to invest 1000 on a suit right now. right now i just want a decent suit that fits me good that will suit me for all occasions. but when i do want to spend more, i will definitely take your suggestion. can any aussies in melbourne point me to stores or brands of decent suits that may fit me well in the price range of 400-700? my friend has pointed me towards CMs .. is that a good store? any info would be much appreciated.

 

[Suits You Sir!]

Reply from an Aussie....

Okay, some may scoff. But for $500-ish at Ron Bennett, you can get some nice Studio Italia suits. I know it's cheap and not considered best quality for most people on here, but for what you're looking to spend, it's nice material and for your needs right now a classic charcoal suit made by Studio Italia will serve you well.

If the staff in the Melbourne outlet are anything like the staff at Ron Bennett here in Perth, you should get excellent advice on how the suit fits properly. Ask enough questions and in WA at least they are only too happy to tell you all about what signs you should be looking for that indicate a good vs. bad fitting suit.

Cheers & good luck.

 

[Suits You Sir!]

PS.

I'm glad you returned the suit. It did nothing for you. For versatility, get a darker shade - charcoal, not black. That lifeless, bland grey is not pretty.

 

[teeo]

aww i liked that color lol. that was one of the main reasons i bought that suit.

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Also, from a details standpoint, you probably should avoid OTR jackets with both a low button stance and hacking (slanted) pockets.

 

[scruff]

Originally Posted by Harry Lean

For only $1,400 all up. Think about it.

lf you want to look twice as good as Eddie Mc Guire in a suit, P.M me NOW!!!

lulz

 

[penguin vic]

Originally Posted by teeo

i cant afford 1000 at the moment.. nor would i want to invest 1000 on a suit right now. right now i just want a decent suit that fits me good that will suit me for all occasions. but when i do want to spend more, i will definitely take your suggestion. can any aussies in melbourne point me to stores or brands of decent suits that may fit me well in the price range of 400-700? my friend has pointed me towards CMs .. is that a good store? any info would be much appreciated.
CMs - is that on Lonsdale? Looks nasty although I admit I've never risked venturing in. As it's sale season you should be able to get an ok suit for your budget - nothing great but certainly something decent. Rhodes and Beckett's suits look and feel decent enough and are around $800 normally but they're at 30% off currently I think. They generally staff their store with eye candy, which is good, but who know bugger all about fit or anything else, which is bad. D'urban suits at DJs are fully canvassed (I examined a dissected one the other day) and retail for around $1,200 or so normally. Not sure how much they're currently being discounted by.

 

[teeo]

Originally Posted by penguin vic

CMs - is that on Lonsdale? Looks nasty although I admit I've never risked venturing in. As it's sale season you should be able to get an ok suit for your budget - nothing great but certainly something decent. Rhodes and Beckett's suits look and feel decent enough and are around $800 normally but they're at 30% off currently I think. They generally staff their store with eye candy, which is good, but who know bugger all about fit or anything else, which is bad. D'urban suits at DJs are fully canvassed (I examined a dissected one the other day) and retail for around $1,200 or so normally. Not sure how much they're currently being discounted by.
there are a few CMs stores, the one my friend recommended to me was the one on chapel. ill go check out these D'urban suits after my exams are done, hopefully there are still discounts going on. are there any other suits/stores you guys recommend that have suits for 400-700 range retail that are decent suits? also penguin vic, i checked out the rhodes becket site, in the winter collection range pg 9 and 6. are those good suits (in regards to styling and what not and maybe some of you might know if those suits are good quality)