Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Suit Fit Critique Between 2 Sizes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by OldManMachine, Oct 11, 2012.

  1. OldManMachine

    OldManMachine Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2012
    I'm currently trying to decide between two suit sizes and get opinions from the veterans here on whether one of them is worth keeping. The photo on the left is a 36S and the photo on the right is a 38S. I'd appreciate any help I can get so I can move forward with bringing one to the tailor to have altered.

    - When I tried on the 36S, the jacket felt more snug and tight, however the shoulders didn't feel right and I noticed that the lapels were bowing.
    - The 38S felt more loose with extra fabric
    - Both sizes seem to create dimples in shoulder / deltoids (what is causing this?)

    EDIT: **I do not HAVE to pick one or the other if they do not fit me properly. I am willing to seek alternatives**


    *Please excuse the pumped up color, exposure, and contrast as I was trying to allow visibility for any details that may be important.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2012


  2. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

    Messages:
    1,868
    Likes Received:
    139
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2012
    Neither. The shoulders are too too big on both of those suits. If the chest is too tight in the 36S, then it probably won't make sense to go down ANOTHER size. You should probably just find another cut. If you're absolutely going to get one, then get the 36S, but I wouldn't spend money on a suit with shoulders like that.
     


  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,747
    Likes Received:
    2,332
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    

    This, althought I think the shoulders are OK on the 36S.

    Find a better cut.
     


  4. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

    Messages:
    443
    Likes Received:
    71
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2012
    Location:
    Hipster Doofusville
    36S, no doubt. 38 is extra sloppy all over.
    I say this with the assumption that you have to pick one or the other.
    I know some will go on about alternatives but I do not know if this is an option and if not, I don't care to waste our time
    or give you the business and lecture unnecessarily.
     


  5. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

    Messages:
    10,271
    Likes Received:
    483
    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2006
    Location:
    Hobart, IN
    38 is better. With tailoring it will look even better. The smaller one is too small for your upper body.
     


  6. OldManMachine

    OldManMachine Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2012
    @ VinnyMac, jrd617, & gambit50

    Thank you guys for your feedback and input. Do you guys all think the dimple in both sizes are due to the shoulders being too big for me?

    I'm a bit confused because the 36S shoulder measurement is 17.15" and the 38S shoulder measurement is 17.6". I followed Thick As Thieves' "Self Measurement Video" and had my back shoulders measured as 17.75 straight across, and 16.5" from the front straight across. I'm not trying to argue or disagree here, but genuinely seeking help to learn and correct any mistakes that I may be making.


    @ gambit50 - I forgot to mention in my original post that I am willing to drop both suits if they do not work out for me and seek alternatives from different makers. This is my fault for not mentioning earlier, but yes, please give me your lecture!
     


  7. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

    Messages:
    10,271
    Likes Received:
    483
    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2006
    Location:
    Hobart, IN
    Generallly you want to buy a suit that fits your biggest part. This is because you can take in a suit most places but you can't take it out.
     


  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,119
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    No, it's about the shape and size of the sleeve and how it fits into the armhole.
     


  9. OldManMachine

    OldManMachine Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2012
    Despos, what are your thoughts on this. Can either one be saved with alternations by a tailor (without needing drastic surgery)? Or should I give up on both and try a different cut?

    - If a different cut by a different maker is recommended, what should I look out for?
    - Out of two sizes, which one would you think have shoulders that fit me so I can use the shoulder measurements from that one as a benchmark?
    - Should I just not worry about using those 2 measurements and go off of my own shoulder measurement?
     


  10. facet

    facet Senior member

    Messages:
    706
    Likes Received:
    54
    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2009
    

    This. omm, the shoulders aren't too big at all. You can see by the pulling on the back, that the 36S, if anything, is too small. The dimpling is due to your shoulders pushing horizontally on the side of the sleeves, which causes the shoulders to buckle. Despos is the authority on this; but, having gone through this myself and from what I've read, it is alterable. You do, though, need to make absolutely sure of the competency of the tailor that you're bringing it to as well as make it crystal clear between the two of you how he/she is going to fix/reshape the sleevehead.

    That being said, there is bunching underneath the collar in the back for both as well that would need tailoring. If it doesn't bother you that much or your tailor can alter that, I would go with the 38S. Still, it seems like maybe this cut might not be the best cut for you; bit of a bummer.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2012


  11. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,170
    Likes Received:
    2,695
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    Go with a different cut. There is something quirky about how the shoulders and collar are cut on this brand that affects how they look on some builds. I returned mine because of the collar gap issue, but there was something that just did not look right about the shoulders as well.
     


  12. HughJ

    HughJ Senior member

    Messages:
    554
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2011
    Curiously (or perhaps it is my eyes?), I don't see a big difference in the shoulders of either jacket. The 36 is a bit small.
     


  13. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

    Messages:
    2,970
    Likes Received:
    279
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2010
    36 back is a little rough but the shoulder fit is better.

    I think a 37 if they made it would be perfect.

    I'd probably try a different brand honestly
     


  14. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

    Messages:
    3,058
    Likes Received:
    200
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2010
    Location:
    Dallas
    Neither is fantastic, but which is better should be obvious to you.
     


  15. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

    Messages:
    2,675
    Likes Received:
    2,124
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2011
    Location:
    Madrid
    Both jackets have OK shoulder widths (if anything, the 36 is too small), it's just that the shape of the shoulders and the sleeve doesn't contour to your body, thus armholes don't fall where they should to look right. Your shoulders are quite rounded rather than square, and narrower shoulders would make your arms protrude, giving you an egg shape. Maybe a softer extended shoulder or something with more sloped shoulders would fit better, try different brands.
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2012


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by