Suit fit and alterations advice

[RedLantern]

Picked this up for 40 bucks. Need to shorten sleeves/pants but not sure what I should ask them to do to smooth out the back?

* note the awesome gladiator lamp.

 

[vitaminc]

I am assuming the back picture is taken with the suit jacket buttoned. You should try to smooth out the upper back and perhaps extend the waist line slightly; the single back vent looks pulled by a bulging belly.

I think you should just shorten the pants slightly, not a whole lot. You would need a slight break on them to elongate your legs, and of course, cuffs add weight.

Good buy nevertheless. Looks good on you when the jacket is unbuttoned; they hide your big mid section better that way.

 

[RedLantern]

Thanks. About the vent, I'm pretty sure that its being pulled by the caboose/hips rather than the gut, I have been wondering if I would do better with side vents?

 

[a tailor]

are you wearing the trousers high enough? you may not need to shorten them as much as you think.

you have an erect posture so the back is too long at the top. that is why the vent is hanging open.

the center back seam should be taken in from zero at the collar to zero at the top of the vent . with the max taken in half way between.

 

[RedLantern]

Originally Posted by a tailor

are you wearing the trousers high enough? you may not need to shorten them as much as you think.

you have an erect posture so the back is too long at the top. that is why the vent is hanging open.

the center back seam should be taken in from zero at the collar to zero at the top of the vent . with the max taken in half way between.

Thanks.

Neophyte question: could you explain what you mean by all of that?

Other than about the trousers.

 

[Conrad]

RTW suits are cut for slouchers, if you stand up too straight you get too much material at the top of the suit, and since the excess has to go somewhere it travels down the suit and pushes the vent open.

The second part is to have the suit taken in so it conforms to the profile of your back. you don't alter at the collar and you don't alter in the vents. However, an arc is sewn between the two so the suit becomes form fitting in between.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by RedLantern

Thanks.

Neophyte question: could you explain what you mean by all of that?

Other than about the trousers.

look at the side view the bottom hangs longer in back. since the coat hangs from the top that where the balance is.thats why it needs to be shortened on top. rtw suits are balanced for an average posture.if you look at the side view you can see how the back is flat and a short straight line. the front gets longer as you lean back and the front curves. the head pitching fore ward or back will also have an additional effect.
as to the center seam. it is curved and your back is not. your back is narrow and flat. there is no excess of fabric at each end of this seam. but there is near the middle.